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From the ancient to the modern

Will O'Neil
Saturday, 5 April 2008


Historic: pastel-painted cottages decorate many streets in rural Suffolk

Since the misty dawn of British civilisation, Suffolk has been shaped, at times quite literally, by a number of foreign and domestic influences. The beautiful estuaries of the Suffolk broads were long believed to be natural features of the landscape. However, more recent evidence has suggested that they are in fact part of an early Roman influence on our natural environment.

The Romans began excavating the area for the rich peat beds to use for fuel and eventually, when the sea levels rose, the trenches became permanently flooded, ultimately creating the wet marshlands, reed beds and river inlets that are enjoyed today.

After the Romans, the Saxons seized control of England. For a closer look at this period, Sutton Hoo, the group of low lying grassy burial mounds overlooking Woodbridge and the River Deben, is a cultural revelation. The most prominent of the mounds contains an ancient Anglo-Saxon ship, which once held the treasure and possessions of one of England’s earliest kings. The original finds from the excavation are displayed at Ipswich museum (01206 282931; www.ipswich.gov.uk; admission free), and a National Trust visitor centre (01394 389700; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; admission £6.20) located near the site provides a changing array of informative programmes for visitors.

Moving further along Suffolk’s historical timeline, the town of Lavenham was once home to a thriving medieval wool trade. The town prospered throughout the medieval period, and in the process distinguished itself as one of wealthiest places in England. These days, it’s still possible to visit Lavenham’s magnificent 15th-century church (pictured below), its half-timbered houses, and to embark on a circular walk through the town. Further details can be obtained through the town’s visitor information centre (01787 248 207; www.lavenham.co.uk).

The region has provided the inspiration for artists such as John Constable (see page VI), Thomas Gainsborough and Benjamin Britten. Today, Suffolk hosts a thriving arts scene.

For a more in-depth look at the region’s illustrious past, the Colchester and Ipswich museum services have combined to offer thousands of years of local history, with exhibitions and extensive collections, including a wide range of Roman, Saxon and medieval artefacts. As a result of the collaboration, many of the prized displays now find themselves across the county border in Essex, where the first site arts complex (01206 577067; www.firstsite.uk.net), which is due to open later this year, promises to turn Colchester into an international visitor destination.

Colchester, of course, is steeped in history: its castle (01206 282939; www.colchestermuseums.org.uk/castle/castle_index.html; admission £5.20) is the largest keep ever built by the Normans, constructed on the site of the Roman temple of Claudius, the foundations of which can still be seen today on a castle tour. In 1645, Witchfinder General Matthew Hopkins interrogated witches here; in the 17th century, the castle was partly pulled down. Since 1892, however, the building was given to the town, and today it contains an award-winning museum featuring displays showing Colchester’s history from the Stone Age to the Civil War.

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