Glasgow: a city on the up

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

Who’d have thought that a city whose most famous culinary export to date has been the deep fried Mars Bar could have also produced arguably the world’s best chef and definitely the most famous, Gordon Ramsay.

Deep-fried chocolate aside, the foul-mouthed restaurateur is in good company. Dozens of A-listers were born and grew up in the city that is now well deserving of its 1990 ‘European City of Culture’ title. Billy Connolly, James McAvoy, Sir Alex Ferguson...the list goes on.

While their talents might be diverse, the one thing they have in common is their agreement that they wouldn’t have got where they are today without the influences and inspiration of Scotland’s gritty city.

"There are no airs and graces, no silver spoons in Glasgow," says Gordon Ramsay. "People are straight to the point and I like that. No flannel. Just get the job done. It's raw and it's helped me enormously in setting up my business. Glasgow is my backbone. I couldn't have achieved half of what I have achieved if I had not been born here."

But what does the man himself do when he goes home? "No return visit to Glasgow is complete without a curry night" he says. Recalling his Glasgow childhood, Ramsay says he used to visit the Bangladeshi curry houses just off Sauchiehall Street. “I used to love the lamb biryani and the real treat was the After Eights that came with my parents' coffee."

It was Glasgow that helped the young Ramsay first develop an interest in food and Scottish produce. "In Glasgow you are only 20 minutes away from some of the finest country in the world. I used to walk on the esplanade at Port Glasgow, go to Dumbarton Rock and catch the ferry to Dunoon. But best of all, I liked fishing with my father and my uncle. We used to eat the salmon we caught and I've honestly never tasted any finer anywhere. The same goes for scallops, langoustines, line-caught sea bass and for lamb, beef and venison. We served them when I was working with Guy Savoy (France's leading chef) in Paris and I still serve them today in all my restaurants, including at Versailles." For traditional Scottish cuisine today, Ramsay recommends eating Arbroath smokies at Cafe Gandolfi in the Merchant city.

Legendary football manager, Sir Alex Ferguson was brought up in another part of the city, Govan, near Clydebank. He describes the area as a “real hub”. Once the centre of heavy industry, it’s now dotted with fascinating riverside architecture. Internationally renowned architect Zaha Hadid has designed a brand new Transport Museum on the shore.

“I remember a journalist doing an article on me and he said that I'd done well despite coming from Govan," says Sir Alex. "Despite coming from Govan! It's because I come from Govan that I've done well! It gives me something to be proud of”.

“It was a great upbringing. All we ever did was play football and fight. That's what you did in these areas because we all lived so close together. You hear it said that you never locked your door, but it's true. You'd come in one day and you'd find a note: ‘Lizzie, I've borrowed some tea', that type of thing. People shared with each other. There was a common cause to help each other, far more than you get today. You knew all your neighbours and probably worked with half of them. Today I don't know half my neighbours."

Marvel Comics’ chief writer, Mark Millar, whose lastest movie Kick Ass with Nicholas Cage is out this autumn, is equally proud of his Scottish heritage. "It's 100 per cent true that there's a huge element of Gotham City to Glasgow. The people who built Glasgow [on a grid] are the same people who went on to build New York. Whenever I go there I feel strangely at home because Glasgow feels like a modestly-budgeted version of New York, one where the buildings stop after four storeys."

Millar’s “inventiveness and industriousness”, something he directly attributes to growing up in Glasgow, is respected worldwide. Mark says Brad Pitt, who collaborated on his new film, is equally enamoured with the city. "He comes up here once a year and has this little ritual where he goes around and looks at all his favourite buildings and goes for a cup of tea in the Willow tearooms wearing a baseball cap... People just think he looks a bit like Brad Pitt. He's a huge architecture buff and has this real affinity for Charles Rennie Macintosh."

The old-meets-new architecture is just one appeal of a break in Scotland’s cultural capital. You can pretty much walk anywhere in Glasgow and come across music events, art galleries and exhibitions. Turner Prize winning artist Douglas Gordon remembers visiting the Kelvingrove Museum every week as a child.

“We started off in the musty downstairs with this terrifying tyrannosaurus rex and knights in shining armour and all these species of birds in one box that if they’d actually been alive they’d have pecked each other to death: a fantastic Hitchcockian scenario...you could go to the Kelvingrove Museum and see a small cast of a rodent and Toulouse-Lautrec and Rodin and the famous Salvador Dali painting of St John on the cross.”

Douglas has most recently contributed to the ‘Inspired’ exhibition, running until September, showcasing a series of pieces inspired by Robert Burns from well-known artists including Tracey Emin, Ed Ruscha and many more who are internationally renowned.

Douglas’ top recommendation now is The Modern Institute. “Toby Webster the director is like a modern magician with what he has done in terms of promoting not just art from Glasgow but art in Glasgow. Toby would bring in art from a level that other people haven’t been able to do. He’s got a gilded tongue and very, very good shows that he puts on.”

This city spouts style. Whether it’s relaxed strolls through bonny streets or a hard-hitting cultural punch you’re looking for, Glasgow has it. There’s plenty of art, architecture, music and food to keep you going, all served with a helping of down-to-earth, Glaswegian fighting spirit.

Visit www.seeglasgow.com for more information.

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
Career Services

Day In a Page

Grotty no more: How Lanzarote upgraded its appeal

How Lanzarote upgraded its appeal

Lanzarote has been quietly changing its fly-and-flop holiday image, discovers Andrew Eames.
Traveller's Guide: Montenegro

Traveller's Guide: Montenegro

It's one of Europe's smallest countries, but it packs in spectacular landscapes and glittering beach resorts.
48 Hours In: Verona

48 Hours In: Verona

Summer opera returns to the Roman arena, says Charles Hebbert.
Ten things we’re looking out for at E3 2012

Ten things to look out for at E3 2012

From Wii U to The Last of Us we consider this year's show
Come dine (online) with me

Come dine (online) with me

Move over TV chefs, hello YouTube stars
Next in line – but public just can't warm to idea of Charles in charge

Next in line – but public just can't warm to idea of Charles in charge

'Independent' poll finds less that half want him to take throne as ministers moan of interference
Nothing's sacred: the illegal trade in India's holy cows

Nothing's sacred: the illegal trade in India's holy cows

Andrew Buncombe reports from Kaharpara on a bloody war between rustlers and border guards
Mogul grounded: Desmond gives up his jet deal

Mogul grounded: Desmond gives up his jet deal

Media tycoon's company pays £1m to cancel his order for a £36m private jet after drop in profits
How Ai Weiwei built a pavilion in London – by remote control

How Ai Weiwei built a pavilion in London – by remote control

The artist tells Clifford Coonan how he used Skype to escape confinement in Beijing
Nature, nurture... or neither? The new twist in an age-old argument

Nature, nurture... or neither?

The new twist in an age-old argument
Radio 4 to shed its cosy image with a 'sexy' Ulysses drama

Radio 4 to shed its cosy image with a 'sexy' Ulysses drama

New station controller wants to reflect the current period of 'turmoil and uncertainity'
Alcohol: I drink therefore I am

Alcohol: I drink therefore I am

New guidelines warn Britons to drastically reduce their boozing. But is a life without liquor worth living? Hell no, says John Walsh
The Cable News Nightmare: CNN (and Piers Morgan) in audience crisis

The Cable News Nightmare

CNN (and Piers Morgan) in audience crisis
Like a barbie, but better: The Big Green Egg can griddle, roast, and smoke food - and even make pizza

The Big Green Egg: Like a barbie, but better

It can griddle, roast, and smoke food - and even make pizza...
The 10 Best chopping boards

The 10 Best chopping boards

Whether you want to dice veg, chop meat, or just slice up a salad, there’s a surface here to suit every culinary need.