Hotel of the week: The George In Rye, East Sussex

For many, Rye High Street will be forever Tilling, the genteel setting for E F Benson's Mapp and Lucia books. It is only when you

reach The George In Rye that this vision of a quaint market town grinds to a halt. For behind the Georgian façade of this historic coach inn lies an establishment that epitomises tasteful chic, has an up-to-the-minute obsession with "so local it was caught this morning" English food and is populated by beautiful thirtysomethings. Transformed by husband-and-wife owners Alex and Katie Clarke, a hotel consultant and set dresser, each of the 24 rooms is individually furnished in earthy shades with beautiful fabrics, high-end fittings and Vi-Spring beds.

The bedroom

Each room has been given the individual treatment by Katie Clarke, with Frette linen, Tivoli radios, flat-screen TVs, Aveda smellies and a tea and coffee caddy made by a Rye cabinet maker. All have en-suite bathrooms with marble-surround baths. Special surprises include the roll-top bath in a vast fireplace alcove in Room Eight and the walk-in double shower in Room One.

The food and drink

The Dining Room restaurant is presided over by Brazilian head chef Rod Grossmann, who cut his teeth in London's Moro and mixes Spanish influences with The George's philosophy of locally sourced ingredients: chargrilled Romney Marsh lamb with butternut squash and salsify gratin; pan-fried scallops with a cauliflower purée; saffron ice cream. The wine list heaves with the fruit of the vines of Kent and Sussex. Breakfast is similarly parochial – the sausages in the fry up are made at the butchers two doors up. Three courses costs £30 per head excluding wine.

The access

Three stone steps at the front entrance make access difficult for those with pushchairs or in wheelchairs. Access through a side entrance can be arranged.

The bill

From £125 to £225 per room per night, including breakfast.

The address

The George In Rye, 98 High Street, Rye, East Sussex, TN31 7JT (01797 222114; thegeorgeinrye.com).

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