Plate With A View: Seafood Restaurant, St Andrews
Saturday 22 October 2005
This younger sister of the well-established restaurant of the same name in nearby St Monans opened to great acclaim two years ago and has managed to retain its opening buzz. This is mainly because, as the name suggests, it sticks to a tried-and-tested formula of local fish and seafood, served imaginatively but unpretentiously. While carnivores are catered for, with mains such as pan-seared fillet of beef, the emphasis is firmly on surf rather than turf.
The current starter menu includes carpaccio of swordfish, smoked salmon terrine and seafood chowder, with baked herb-crusted halibut, grilled cod and pan-seared turbot to follow.
The open-fronted kitchen sources much of its produce from within Scotland, with oysters from Seil Island, smoked and kiln-roasted salmon from a smokehouse in Achiltibuie and lobsters that are so local that they are creeled within view of the restaurant's windows.
Although not quite as secluded as the pictures on its website suggest, the restaurant is set in prime St Andrews tourist territory, right next door to the British Golf Museum and overlooking both the famous West Sands beach and the even more celebrated Old Course, the home of golf (less scenically, there's also a busy car park in the foreground). What makes it different is that you're closer to the view than usual; this very contemporary-looking restaurant is set in a cool glass box, which juts out over the rocks and crashing surf that sit immediately below it. If you want a table by the wrap-around windows, make sure you book early.
Three courses, without wine, cost £38.50.
The Seafood Restaurant, Bruce Embankment, St Andrews (01334 479475; www.theseafoodrestaurant.com)
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