Plate With A View: White Hart Inn, Nayland


THE PLATE

Owned by Michel Roux of Waterside Inn fame, and staffed mainly by ex-Watersiders, the menu at this more intimate, less wallet-busting Suffolk outpost of the Roux empire strays surprisingly far from its owner's Gallic roots. I started with a meltingly delicious home-cured haddock gravadlax, followed by a subtly intense honey roast pork belly on a bed of cabbage and lentils.

My wife was tempted by the twice-baked cheese soufflé, but being in the early stages of pregnancy thought it safer to order a seasonal salad marinated "à la Grecque" vegetables and fresh herbs - the soufflé long forgotten by the time she had wolfed down this toothsome harvest.

Her pan-fried fillet of local Maldon beef came rubbed in star-anise and cumin, and moistened by a tarragon jus. If you fancy something simpler, there's a macaroni cheese. Puddings consist of old favourites such as a twist-baked Bramley apple with cinnamon ice cream, or creamed rice pudding with mango.

THE VIEW

Sit by the windows and you can try counting the different Farrow & Ball-style shades - from taupes and cooking-apple greens to French mustard and French blue - that Nayland's justifiably famous timber-framed houses come painted in. The view inside is arguably even more theatrical, a large section of the restaurant floor being a plate-glass window through which the wine cellar can be viewed. Diners suffering acute vertigo may prefer the wine list - where a half bottle of Montagny Premier Cru La Vigne sur le Cloux 1997 (£11.50), or a Coudoulet de Beaucastel Château de Beaucastel Rhone 1996 (£27) might catch the eye.

THE BILL

Starters range from £4.50 for a shellfish bisque to £12.80 for a terrine of foie gras. My gravadlax cost £7.70. My wife's beef was the most expensive main course, at £16.60, but she wasn't drinking alcohol so our bill came in at a relatively modest £66.55, minus service, for some confident, above average cooking. We ate less happily at a well-regarded gastro-pub in a nearby village the next night.

The White Hart Inn, High Street, Nayland, Suffolk (01206 263382; www.whitehart-nayland.co.uk)

PROMOTED VIDEO
News
Lena Dunham posing for an official portrait at Sundance 2015
people
Arts and Entertainment
Under the skin: Sarah Kane in May 1998
theatreThe story behind a new season of Sarah Kane plays
Arts and Entertainment
Preening: Johnny Depp in 'Mortdecai'
filmMortdecai becomes actor's fifth consecutive box office bomb
Sport
Bradford City's reward for their memorable win over Chelsea is a trip to face either Sunderland or Fulham (Getty)
football
News
Lars Andersen took up archery in his mid thirties
video
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Recruitment Genius: Tour Drivers - UK & European

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This is a fantastic opportunity to join a is a...

    Old Royal Naval College: ORNC Visitor Experience Volunteer

    Unpaid voluntary work: Old Royal Naval College: Join our team of friendly volu...

    Recruitment Genius: Customer Service / Sales Assistant

    £8 per hour: Recruitment Genius: This airport parking organisation are looking...

    Recruitment Genius: PCV Bus Drivers

    £8 per hour: Recruitment Genius: Do you enjoy bus driving and are looking for ...

    Day In a Page

    Woman who was sent to three Nazi death camps describes how she escaped the gas chamber

    Auschwitz liberation 70th anniversary

    Woman sent to three Nazi death camps describes surviving gas chamber
    DSK, Dodo the Pimp, and the Carlton Hotel

    The inside track on France's trial of the year

    Dominique Strauss-Kahn, Dodo the Pimp, and the Carlton Hotel:
    As provocative now as they ever were

    Sarah Kane season

    Why her plays are as provocative now as when they were written
    Murder of Japanese hostage has grim echoes of a killing in Iraq 11 years ago

    Murder of Japanese hostage has grim echoes of another killing

    Japanese mood was against what was seen as irresponsible trips to a vicious war zone
    Syria crisis: Celebrities call on David Cameron to take more refugees as one young mother tells of torture by Assad regime

    Celebrities call on David Cameron to take more Syrian refugees

    One young mother tells of torture by Assad regime
    The enemy within: People who hear voices in their heads are being encouraged to talk back – with promising results

    The enemy within

    People who hear voices in their heads are being encouraged to talk back
    'In Auschwitz you got used to anything'

    'In Auschwitz you got used to anything'

    Survivors of the Nazi concentration camp remember its horror, 70 years on
    Autumn/winter menswear 2015: The uniforms that make up modern life come to the fore

    Autumn/winter menswear 2015

    The uniforms that make up modern life come to the fore
    'I'm gay, and plan to fight military homophobia'

    'I'm gay, and plan to fight military homophobia'

    Army general planning to come out
    Iraq invasion 2003: The bloody warnings six wise men gave to Tony Blair as he prepared to launch poorly planned campaign

    What the six wise men told Tony Blair

    Months before the invasion of Iraq in 2003, experts sought to warn the PM about his plans. Here, four of them recall that day
    25 years of The Independent on Sunday: The stories, the writers and the changes over the last quarter of a century

    25 years of The Independent on Sunday

    The stories, the writers and the changes over the last quarter of a century
    Homeless Veterans appeal: 'Really caring is a dangerous emotion in this kind of work'

    Homeless Veterans appeal

    As head of The Soldiers' Charity, Martin Rutledge has to temper compassion with realism. He tells Chris Green how his Army career prepared him
    Wu-Tang Clan and The Sexual Objects offer fans a chance to own the only copies of their latest albums

    Smash hit go under the hammer

    It's nice to pick up a new record once in a while, but the purchasers of two latest releases can go a step further - by buying the only copy
    Geeks who rocked the world: Documentary looks back at origins of the computer-games industry

    The geeks who rocked the world

    A new documentary looks back at origins of the computer-games industry
    Belle & Sebastian interview: Stuart Murdoch reveals how the band is taking a new direction

    Belle & Sebastian is taking a new direction

    Twenty years ago, Belle & Sebastian was a fey indie band from Glasgow. It still is – except today, as prime mover Stuart Murdoch admits, it has a global cult following, from Hollywood to South Korea