Dylan Jones: 'The restaurants of Abergavenny display a genuine enthusiasm that is sadly lacking in less rural areas'

Talk Of The Town

Related Topics

While you weren't looking, the NP7 postcode has probably become the most gastronomique in all Britain. There are certainly enough great restaurants in London W1 to keep most critics entertained – but then the capital has always been spoilt. The NP7 postcode covers the Abergavenny area, home to three of the best restaurants in Wales, and they're all within a few miles of each other: The Walnut Tree, The Hardwick and The Foxhunter.

NP7 is Abergavenny's own Bermuda Triangle, a vortex of fantastically good cooking that will satisfy even the most demanding gourmand, a vortex that envelopes you without you really noticing. And while their proprietors would probably shudder at the thought, all three are unnervingly similar, both in terms of menus and surroundings, as well as service. All serve deceptively extravagant food in casually dressed rooms with the sort of enthusiasm that makes the customer actually think they might value their custom (which, frankly, is an alien concept in many London restaurants).

Specifically, Shaun Hill has reinvented The Walnut Tree, the restaurant made famous by the Italian chef Franco Taruschio over 40 years ago; The Hardwick is a more-than-charming country pub run by Stephen Terry, the man who once put Oliver Peyton's Coast in the A to Z; and The Foxhunter is the old railway stationmaster's house where celebrity chef Matt Tebbutt shows off his considerable skills. Having now been to all three I couldn't really put a cigarette paper between them – wouldn't want to, actually – as they all display a genuine passion that is sadly lacking in less rural areas. Not only this, they all serve you incredibly large portions, the sort that make you want to have another large espresso before you get back in the car. Which, if you enjoy deceptively extravagant food, is a good thing indeed. And finally, they are very close to my real favourite restaurant in the area, The River Café in Glasbury.

So, do you have postcode envy yet? If you're going to the Abergavenny Food Festival this weekend, you soon will.

Dylan Jones is the editor of 'GQ'

React Now

Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

Cover Supervisor

£75 - £90 per day + negotiable: Randstad Education Group: Are you a cover supe...

Marketing Manager - Leicestershire - £35,000

£30000 - £35000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Marketing Manager (CIM, B2B, MS Offi...

Marketing Executive (B2B and B2C) - Rugby, Warwickshire

£22000 - £25000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A highly successful organisation wit...

SEN Coordinator + Teacher (SENCO)

£1 per day: Randstad Education Leeds: Job Purpose To work closely with the he...

Day In a Page

Read Next
Piper Ryan Randall leads a pro-Scottish independence rally in the suburbs of Edinburgh  

i Editor's Letter: Britain survives, but change is afoot

Oliver Duff Oliver Duff
Some believe that David Cameron is to blame for allowing Alex Salmond a referendum  

Scottish referendum: So how about the English now being given a chance to split from England?

Mark Steel
Scottish referendum: The Yes vote was the love that dared speak its name, but it was not to be

Despite the result, this is the end of the status quo

Boyd Tonkin on the fall-out from the Scottish referendum
Manolo Blahnik: The high priest of heels talks flats, Englishness, and why he loves Mary Beard

Manolo Blahnik: Flats, Englishness, and Mary Beard

The shoe designer who has been dubbed 'the patron saint of the stiletto'
The Beatles biographer reveals exclusive original manuscripts of some of the best pop songs ever written

Scrambled eggs and LSD

Behind The Beatles' lyrics - thanks to Hunter Davis's original manuscript copies
'Normcore' fashion: Blending in is the new standing out in latest catwalk non-trend

'Normcore': Blending in is the new standing out

Just when fashion was in grave danger of running out of trends, it only went and invented the non-trend. Rebecca Gonsalves investigates
Dance’s new leading ladies fight back: How female vocalists are now writing their own hits

New leading ladies of dance fight back

How female vocalists are now writing their own hits
Mystery of the Ground Zero wedding photo

A shot in the dark

Mystery of the wedding photo from Ground Zero
His life, the universe and everything

His life, the universe and everything

New biography sheds light on comic genius of Douglas Adams
Save us from small screen superheroes

Save us from small screen superheroes

Shows like Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D are little more than marketing tools
Reach for the skies

Reach for the skies

From pools to football pitches, rooftop living is looking up
These are the 12 best hotel spas in the UK

12 best hotel spas in the UK

Some hotels go all out on facilities; others stand out for the sheer quality of treatments
These Iranian-controlled Shia militias used to specialise in killing American soldiers. Now they are fighting Isis, backed up by US airstrikes

Widespread fear of Isis is producing strange bedfellows

Iranian-controlled Shia militias that used to kill American soldiers are now fighting Isis, helped by US airstrikes
Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

Shoppers don't come to Topshop for the unique
How to make a Lego masterpiece

How to make a Lego masterpiece

Toy breaks out of the nursery and heads for the gallery
Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

Urbanites are cursed with an acronym pointing to Employed but No Disposable Income or Savings
Paisley’s decision to make peace with IRA enemies might remind the Arabs of Sadat

Ian Paisley’s decision to make peace with his IRA enemies

His Save Ulster from Sodomy campaign would surely have been supported by many a Sunni imam