Dylan Jones: 'The restaurants of Abergavenny display a genuine enthusiasm that is sadly lacking in less rural areas'

Talk Of The Town

Share
Related Topics

While you weren't looking, the NP7 postcode has probably become the most gastronomique in all Britain. There are certainly enough great restaurants in London W1 to keep most critics entertained – but then the capital has always been spoilt. The NP7 postcode covers the Abergavenny area, home to three of the best restaurants in Wales, and they're all within a few miles of each other: The Walnut Tree, The Hardwick and The Foxhunter.

NP7 is Abergavenny's own Bermuda Triangle, a vortex of fantastically good cooking that will satisfy even the most demanding gourmand, a vortex that envelopes you without you really noticing. And while their proprietors would probably shudder at the thought, all three are unnervingly similar, both in terms of menus and surroundings, as well as service. All serve deceptively extravagant food in casually dressed rooms with the sort of enthusiasm that makes the customer actually think they might value their custom (which, frankly, is an alien concept in many London restaurants).

Specifically, Shaun Hill has reinvented The Walnut Tree, the restaurant made famous by the Italian chef Franco Taruschio over 40 years ago; The Hardwick is a more-than-charming country pub run by Stephen Terry, the man who once put Oliver Peyton's Coast in the A to Z; and The Foxhunter is the old railway stationmaster's house where celebrity chef Matt Tebbutt shows off his considerable skills. Having now been to all three I couldn't really put a cigarette paper between them – wouldn't want to, actually – as they all display a genuine passion that is sadly lacking in less rural areas. Not only this, they all serve you incredibly large portions, the sort that make you want to have another large espresso before you get back in the car. Which, if you enjoy deceptively extravagant food, is a good thing indeed. And finally, they are very close to my real favourite restaurant in the area, The River Café in Glasbury.

So, do you have postcode envy yet? If you're going to the Abergavenny Food Festival this weekend, you soon will.

Dylan Jones is the editor of 'GQ'

React Now

Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

Recruitment Genius: Account Manager

£20000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This full service social media ...

Recruitment Genius: Data Analyst - Online Marketing

£24000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: We are 'Changemakers in retail'...

Austen Lloyd: Senior Residential Conveyancer

Very Competitive: Austen Lloyd: Senior Conveyancer - South West We are see...

Austen Lloyd: Residential / Commercial Property Solicitor

Excellent Salary: Austen Lloyd: DORSET MARKET TOWN - SENIOR PROPERTY SOLICITOR...

Day In a Page

Read Next
 

Tony Abbott: A man most Australian women would like to pat on the back...iron in hand

Caroline Garnar
Australian rapper Iggy Azalea performs in California  

Hip hop is both racial and political, and for Iggy Azalea to suggest otherwise is insulting

Yomi Adegoke
Isis in Iraq: Yazidi girls killing themselves to escape rape and imprisonment by militants

'Jilan killed herself in the bathroom. She cut her wrists and hanged herself'

Yazidi girls killing themselves to escape rape and imprisonment
Ed Balls interview: 'If I think about the deficit when I'm playing the piano, it all goes wrong'

Ed Balls interview

'If I think about the deficit when I'm playing the piano, it all goes wrong'
He's behind you, dude!

US stars in UK panto

From David Hasselhoff to Jerry Hall
Grace Dent's Christmas Quiz: What are you – a festive curmudgeon or top of the tree?

Grace Dent's Christmas Quiz

What are you – a festive curmudgeon or top of the tree?
Nasa planning to build cloud cities in airships above Venus

Nasa planning to build cloud cities in airships above Venus

Planet’s surface is inhospitable to humans but 30 miles above it is almost perfect
Surrounded by high-rise flats is a little house filled with Lebanon’s history - clocks, rifles, frogmen’s uniforms and colonial helmets

Clocks, rifles, swords, frogmen’s uniforms

Surrounded by high-rise flats is a little house filled with Lebanon’s history
Return to Gaza: Four months on, the wounds left by Israel's bombardment have not yet healed

Four months after the bombardment, Gaza’s wounds are yet to heal

Kim Sengupta is reunited with a man whose plight mirrors the suffering of the Palestinian people
Gastric surgery: Is it really the answer to the UK's obesity epidemic?

Is gastric surgery really the answer to the UK's obesity epidemic?

Critics argue that it’s crazy to operate on healthy people just to stop them eating
Homeless Veterans appeal: Christmas charity auction Part 2 - now LIVE

Homeless Veterans appeal: Christmas charity auction

Bid on original art, or trips of a lifetime to Africa or the 'Corrie' set, and help Homeless Veterans
Pantomime rings the changes to welcome autistic theatre-goers

Autism-friendly theatre

Pantomime leads the pack in quest to welcome all
The week Hollywood got scared and had to grow up a bit

The week Hollywood got scared and had to grow up a bit

Sony suffered a chorus of disapproval after it withdrew 'The Interview', but it's not too late for it to take a stand, says Joan Smith
From Widow Twankey to Mother Goose, how do the men who play panto dames get themselves ready for the performance of a lifetime?

Panto dames: before and after

From Widow Twankey to Mother Goose, how do the men who play panto dames get themselves ready for the performance of a lifetime?
Thirties murder mystery novel is surprise runaway Christmas hit

Thirties murder mystery novel is surprise runaway Christmas hit

Booksellers say readers are turning away from dark modern thrillers and back to the golden age of crime writing
Anne-Marie Huby: 'Charities deserve the best,' says founder of JustGiving

Anne-Marie Huby: 'Charities deserve the best'

Ten million of us have used the JustGiving website to donate to good causes. Its co-founder says that being dynamic is as important as being kind
The botanist who hunts for giant trees at Kew Gardens

The man who hunts giants

A Kew Gardens botanist has found 25 new large tree species - and he's sure there are more out there