Talk of the town: The Ivy Club's entrance is so white that it feels as if you're walking into a huge iPod

Share
Related Topics

My pal Richard was over in London from Hong Kong so after drinks at the Chelsea Arts Club we went to the newly opened Ivy Club, adjacent to the eponymous restaurant in West Street. The entrance is so white that it feels as if you're walking into a huge iPod, but upstairs the rooms are reassuringly decorated, and the food is just as good as it is next door. The smart thing to say about the new club is, "Of course I've joined, but I'm not sure that I'll ever go there." But everyone will, you know, because everyone else will, and then they'll think you're only important enough to eat in the restaurant.

The Ivy Club reminds me of the famous New York after-hours nightclub that had so many Russian Doll VIP rooms that the VVVVIP room only had two seats in it. When we went, the place was packed, with as much Grade-A rubbernecking as you'd expect. People – even important people – still maintain that they don't go to the Ivy to be seen, but they all do. Because it's the Ivy (which, on its day, is still the best "good" restaurant in London). It's hilarious how many hacks with egalitarian tendencies love the idea of eating here, especially watching them get all snitty when they don't get a good table. (Of course, the Ivy will tell you that there are no bad tables here, but even mad old socialists know this isn't true.)

Last week, Dunhill's Bourdon House opened in Davies Street, Mayfair, a stone's throw from Scott's and directly opposite the worst "good" restaurant in London, Cipriani. It's a private members club too, with a couple of bedrooms for those too squiffy after dinner to find their chauffeur, mistress or jet. Outside the restaurant there is a rather impressive plane tree, curling its way round the building like a benign shroud. When renovating the building, the Dunhillians had wanted to move it slightly, but when they consulted the council about this, Westminster told them that if they accidentally killed it, the misdemeanour would cost them in the neighbourhood of ten million pounds – £10,000 for every window that overlooks the tree.

As Robert de Niro says at the end of Midnight Run, that's a very respectable neighbourhood.

Dylan Jones is the editor of 'GQ'

React Now

Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

Data Analyst

£30000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A highly reputable software house is looking ...

Application Support Analyst / Junior SQL Server DBA

£40000 - £45000 per annum: Ashdown Group: An established professional services...

Commercial Litigation

Highly Attractive Salary: Austen Lloyd: CITY - SENIOR COMMERCIAL LITIGATION SO...

BI Developer - Sheffield - £35,000 ~ £40,000 DOE

£35000 - £40000 per annum + competitive: Progressive Recruitment: My client is...

Day In a Page

Read Next
 

Letter from the Assistant Editor: Domestic violence is no petty matter

Siobhan Norton
 

There’s nothing wrong with GM

Steve Connor
A new Russian revolution: Cracks start to appear in Putin’s Kremlin power bloc

A new Russian revolution

Cracks start to appear in Putin’s Kremlin power bloc
Eugene de Kock: Apartheid’s sadistic killer that his country cannot forgive

Apartheid’s sadistic killer that his country cannot forgive

The debate rages in South Africa over whether Eugene de Kock should ever be released from jail
Standing my ground: If sitting is bad for your health, what happens when you stay on your feet for a whole month?

Standing my ground

If sitting is bad for your health, what happens when you stay on your feet for a whole month?
Commonwealth Games 2014: Dai Greene prays for chance to rebuild after injury agony

Greene prays for chance to rebuild after injury agony

Welsh hurdler was World, European and Commonwealth champion, but then the injuries crept in
Israel-Gaza conflict: Secret report helps Israelis to hide facts

Patrick Cockburn: Secret report helps Israel to hide facts

The slickness of Israel's spokesmen is rooted in directions set down by pollster Frank Luntz
The man who dared to go on holiday

The man who dared to go on holiday

New York's mayor has taken a vacation - in a nation that has still to enforce paid leave, it caused quite a stir, reports Rupert Cornwell
Best comedians: How the professionals go about their funny business, from Sarah Millican to Marcus Brigstocke

Best comedians: How the professionals go about their funny business

For all those wanting to know how stand-ups keep standing, here are some of the best moments
The Guest List 2014: Forget the Man Booker longlist, Literary Editor Katy Guest offers her alternative picks

The Guest List 2014

Forget the Man Booker longlist, Literary Editor Katy Guest offers her alternative picks
Jokes on Hollywood: 'With comedy film audiences shrinking, it’s time to move on'

Jokes on Hollywood

With comedy film audiences shrinking, it’s time to move on
It's the best of British art... but not all is on display

It's the best of British art... but not all is on display

Voted for by the British public, the artworks on Art Everywhere posters may be the only place where they can be seen
Critic claims 'I was the inspiration for Blanche DuBois'

Critic claims 'I was the inspiration for Blanche DuBois'

Blanche Marvin reveals how Tennessee Williams used her name and an off-the-cuff remark to create an iconic character
Sometimes it's hard to be a literary novelist

Sometimes it's hard to be a literary novelist

Websites offering your ebooks for nothing is only the latest disrespect the modern writer is subjected to, says DJ Taylor
Edinburgh Fringe 2014: The comedy highlights, from Bridget Christie to Jack Dee

Edinburgh Fringe 2014

The comedy highlights, from Bridget Christie to Jack Dee
Dame Jenny Abramsky: 'We have to rethink. If not, museums and parks will close'

Dame Jenny Abramsky: 'We have to rethink. If not, museums and parks will close'

The woman stepping down as chair of the Heritage Lottery Fund is worried