Man About Town: Food is the new rock and roll and chefs are feted like rock stars

It wasn’t just us eaters being treated well last week, the chefs in whites were also able to indulge their celebrity status.

Share
Related Topics

It has become ever more common for chefs to be treated like rock stars. So it was no surprise to see nearly 50 of them stride across a gangway at Old Billingsgate Market in London earlier this week, while 600 diners clapped, cheered and took photos on the phones.

It is perhaps appropriate that for the middle classes and their media, food and its creators have (whether they like it or not) become ever more celebrated.

The 599 and I were there for the Relais and Chateaux “dîner des grands chefs”. The chefs were put into teams of three, with each taking a course, and each team creating their own menu for three tables of hungry faces dressed in their black tie best.

The trio I had were very impressive: Double-Michelin starred chef Jean-Luc Rocha served up a lobster dish with acidic vegetables. British-born-US-based Colin Bedford cooked an exceptional beef dish, while the quiet, unassuming Japanese chef Yoshinori Shibuya prepared a scallop dish so good (with asparagus and morels with a morel sauce), that I am tempted fly to his restaurant La Bécasse in Osaka to eat it again.

All this was made better as it was washed down with various vintages of Pommery champagne, while an auction which raised £100,000 for Action against Hunger went a (very) small way to assuage the diners’ greedy guilt.

But it wasn’t just us eaters being treated well last week, the men and women in whites were able to indulge their celebrity status.

After being flown to the UK for the dinner, they enjoyed boat trips, restaurant visits and spent the day at Raymond Blanc’s two-Michelin starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. Of course, a number of the chefs will have stuck around because in London on Monday, Restaurant magazine announces its annual list of the 50 best restaurants in the world.

Just like those who hang around rock stars often get the perks, even the judges of the event (The Diners Club Academy) get treated well. Tomorrow night a group of them have been invited to HKK restaurant in the City of London for a multi-course Chinese banquet.

And for those chefs who make the top 50 on Monday, it should ensure that they continue to get the rock star treatment for some time to come.

React Now

Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

Senior Risk Manager - Banking - London - £650

£600 - £650 per day: Orgtel: Conduct Risk Liaison Manager - Banking - London -...

Commercial Litigation Associate

Highly Attractive Package: Austen Lloyd: CITY - COMMERCIAL LITIGATION - GLOBAL...

Systems Manager - Dynamics AX

£65000 - £75000 per annum + Benefits: Progressive Recruitment: The client is a...

Service Delivery Manager (Software Development, Testing)

£40000 - £45000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A well-established software house ba...

Day In a Page

Read Next
The economy expanded by 0.8 per cent in the second quarter of 2014  

British economy: Government hails the latest GDP figures, but there is still room for scepticism over this 'glorious recovery'

Ben Chu
Comedy queen: Miranda Hart has said that she is excited about working on the new film  

There is no such thing as a middle-class laugh

David Lister
Evan Davis: The BBC’s wolf in sheep’s clothing to take over at Newsnight

The BBC’s wolf in sheep’s clothing

What will Evan Davis be like on Newsnight?
Finding the names for America’s shame: What happens to the immigrants crossing the US-Mexico border without documents who never make it past the Arizona desert?

Finding the names for America’s shame

The immigrants crossing the US-Mexico border without documents who never make it past the Arizona desert
Inside a church for Born Again Christians: Speaking to God in a Manchester multiplex

Inside a church for Born Again Christians

As Britain's Anglican church struggles to establish its modern identity, one branch of Christianity is booming
Rihanna, Kim Kardashian and me: How Olivier Rousteing is revitalising the house of Balmain

Olivier Rousteing is revitalising the house of Balmain

Parisian couturier Pierre Balmain made his name dressing the mid-century jet set. Today, Olivier Rousteing – heir to the house Pierre built – is celebrating their 21st-century equivalents. The result? Nothing short of Balmania
Cancer, cardiac arrest, HIV and homelessness - and he's only 39

Incredible survival story of David Tovey

Tovey went from cooking for the Queen to rifling through bins for his supper. His is a startling story of endurance against the odds – and of a social safety net failing at every turn
Backhanders, bribery and abuses of power have soared in China as economy surges

Bribery and abuses of power soar in China

The bribery is fuelled by the surge in China's economy but the rules of corruption are subtle and unspoken, finds Evan Osnos, as he learns the dark arts from a master
Commonwealth Games 2014: Highland terriers stole the show at the opening ceremony

Highland terriers steal the show at opening ceremony

Gillian Orr explores why a dog loved by film stars and presidents is finally having its day
German art world rocked as artists use renowned fat sculpture to distil schnapps

Brewing the fat from artwork angers widow of sculptor

Part of Joseph Beuys' 1982 sculpture 'Fettecke' used to distil schnapps
BBC's The Secret History of Our Streets reveals a fascinating window into Britain's past

BBC takes viewers back down memory lane

The Secret History of Our Streets, which returns with three films looking at Scottish streets, is the inverse of Benefits Street - delivering warmth instead of cynicism
Joe, film review: Nicolas Cage delivers an astonishing performance in low budget drama

Nicolas Cage shines in low-budget drama Joe

Cage plays an ex-con in David Gordon Green's independent drama, which has been adapted from a novel by Larry Brown
How to make your own gourmet ice lollies, granitas, slushy cocktails and frozen yoghurt

Make your own ice lollies and frozen yoghurt

Think outside the cool box for this summer's tempting frozen treats
Ford Fiesta is UK's most popular car of all-time, with sales topping 4.1 million since 1976

Fiesta is UK's most popular car of all-time

Sales have topped 4.1 million since 1976. To celebrate this milestone, four Independent writers recall their Fiestas with pride
10 best reed diffusers

Heaven scent: 10 best reed diffusers

Keep your rooms smelling summery and fresh with one of these subtle but distinctive home fragrances that’ll last you months
Commonwealth Games 2014: Female boxers set to compete for first time

Female boxers set to compete at Commonwealth Games for first time

There’s no favourites and with no headguards anything could happen
Five things we’ve learned so far about Manchester United under Louis van Gaal

Five things we’ve learned so far about United under Van Gaal

It’s impossible to avoid the impression that the Dutch manager is playing to the gallery a little