Harriet Walker: Fried cheese and burgers - Fashion Week food is not what you'd think

Share
+More
Related Topics

As this week's Paris collections herald the final push for the fashion crowd (which has already been stationed in New York, London and Milan), there'll be a collective sigh of relief from those fashion foodies desperate to escape the carousel of canapés and vol-au-vents. Not because they're avoiding solids, you understand, but because they've glutted themselves on them.

The public image of the fashionable diet is one of champagne tempered by cotton-wool balls and cucumber dipped in vinegar. In actuality, the cool crowd spends Fashion Week running from one event to another with little opportunity to snack, so they end up carb-loading when they can, in a way that would put a competitive eater to shame. I seem to spend much of the most glamorous week of the year (so they'll have you believe) in McDonald's after hours.

In a seeming bid to counteract everyone's desperation for comfort food, fashion parties and events have taken two rather divergent routes as regards their amuse-bouches. Some aim for the higher senses – at a conceptual level of abstract taste, gilding unpronounceable fruits with foam and a coulis, with a prawn on top – as if to guilt you out of being hungry and remind you of the aesthetic purism that brought you into this job. Others play to baser instincts and provide mini fish and chips in paper cones. One of my personal favourites was honey-and-mustard cocktail sausages arranged around a well of cheesy mash for dipping. I managed eight before the tray had to circulate.

One gets wise to the ebb and flow of snacks during Fashion Week: Topshop-sponsored shows, for instance, are notorious for laying on risotto and soups, so the majority of people arrive only 10 minutes late to them (as opposed to the customary half-hour). This year was no different – although with the introduction of deep-fried cheese in breadcrumbs – and the new venue at the old Eurostar terminal at Waterloo had the added bonus of several steep ramps to expend calories consumed.

This, of course, is the name of the game with fashion food – like first-class Atlantic flights, everything bad must be offset so the fun can continue. Hence, my McDonald's trips were cancelled out by my sleep deficit; the two Ginsters slices I wolfed while blogging two stories were negated by the effort expended typing; the tube of Pringles I followed them with was so awful it in itself that it simply didn't count.

And the chocolate croissant I'm eating now? Well, that's so I don't faint after being so stressed during Fashion Week.

React Now

iJobs Job Widget
iJobs General

Senior Employment Solicitor - Birmingham

Excellent Package: Austen Lloyd: This is a senior appointment with huge potent...

Teaching Programme Officer with Qualified Teacher Status

£28000 - £31500 per annum + benefits: Randstad Education Newcastle: Permanent ...

SAP FI-CA Consultant - up to £58k

£50000 - £58000 per annum + Benefits and Bonus: Progressive Recruitment: SAP F...

PHP/ Drupal Developer - £35k - WC

£30000 - £40000 per annum + BENS: Progressive Recruitment: Drupal Developer A ...

Day In a Page

Read Next
 

Austerity has hardened the nation's heart

Yasmin Alibhai Brown
Questions: Eric Schmidt is lying low after the PAC branded his firm 'devious'  

The moral case on tax avoidance is overwhelming - and we all know Google wants to do the right thing

Owen Jones
'There is a battle going on inside us that is never discussed'

Masculinity in crisis?

'There is a battle going on inside us that is never discussed'
Have US shock jocks gone too far?

Have US shock jocks gone too far?

An incendiary remark from Rush Limbaugh may be the beginning of the end for outspoken right-wing US broadcasters
The ‘Beverly Hills’ of Surrey pays more income tax than big cities of the North

The ‘Beverly Hills’ of Surrey

Elmbridge pays more income tax than big cities of the North
Heavenly Bodies

Heavenly Bodies

Michael Landy's artistic marriage made in heaven... and hell
'He will always be a friend': Jackie Stewart backs Polanski

'He will always be a friend'

Jackie Stewart backs Roman Polanski
The price of pacifism: Refusing to go to war is finally being recognised as a brave act

The price of pacifism

From the Second World War refusenik to the 19-year-old Israeli, Holly Williams talks to five people who risked shame and suffering to take a stand as conscientious objector.
'It was mass hysteria': Jason Isaacs on groupies, theatre bores and snogging James Bond

Jason Isaacs: Groupies, theatre bores and James Bond

To millions, Jason Isaacs is one of Harry Potter's arch enemies – but his wife prefers him as a Scottish TV detective.
Notes from a small island: Is Sealand an independent 'micronation' or an illegal fortress?

Sealand: 'Micronation' or illegal fortress?

Thomas Hodgkinson spent a week at the tiny platform off the Suffolk coast to find out.
Not a bad bone: Mark Hix cooks with cutlets and ribs

Mark Hix cooks with cutlets and ribs

If you ignore cutlets and ribs, you'll risk missing out on some delicious and easy meals, says our chef.
The experts' guide to summer: From getting fit for the beach to recreating that Olympic buzz

The experts' guide to summer

From getting fit for the beach to recreating that Olympic buzz
Sex, drugs and fast cars: The legend of James Hunt has set Hollywood hearts racing

Legend of James Hunt has set Hollywood hearts racing

Early glimpses of Ron Howard's film Rush suggest it will portray Hunt as a high-living lothario, with an insatiable appetite for partying.
Macklemore: 'I don't have moderation when using drugs and alcohol. It was hurting my life'

Macklemore: 'I don't have moderation'

The next Vanilla Ice or the next Eminem? Macklemore doesn't have a record contract – but he does have the UK's biggest-selling single of the year.
Don't be shy: Bill Granger's Sri Lankan recipes

Don't be shy: Bill Granger's Sri Lankan recipes

Sri Lankan cuisine is light, sunny, wonderfully spiced – and so easy to cook from scratch. Just as soon as you've broken into the coconut, that is.
Sir James Dyson’s latest project: Cleaning up hospitals

Sir James Dyson’s latest project: Cleaning up hospitals

Doctors are hailing the revamp of a Bath neonatal unit, where babies sleep more and feed better, as the model for patient care
One man returns to Argentina's town that drowned

One man returns to Argentina's town that drowned

Epecuen was submerged under 10 metres of water in 1985. Now the floods have gone – and 83-year-old Pablo Novak has moved back in