Mary Dejevsky: Knife culture gives away your age

Notebook

Share
+More
Related Topics

At a lunch last week hosted by – dare I say – a bank, I noted with some astonishment that of the 20 or so people around the table only two were not tackling their main course with both a knife and a fork. The astonishment reflected what seems to me the growing tendency for people to shovel food only with a fork, even when the occasion and the surroundings are quite formal.

A second look around the table helped to explain why this might be. All the men were in jacket and tie, and there was probably no one there under 40. It crossed my mind that we might be the last generation to eat in the traditionally correct way. I had visions of us all labouring mightily to balance peas, if there had been any, on the back of our forks, and delicately tipping the soup plate, if there had been one, away from us.

Now this is not a plea for the unconditional observance of old-fashioned table-manners – though I admit to disliking what seems to me the rather agricultural practice of hooking an arm around the plate and forking the food in head-on rather than from the side. It irks me in Russia and the United States, and it irks me even more here. It is rather a social observation: that practical efficiency – eating with a fork – is fast taking over from old-fashioned table etiquette. And one reason why it has become possible to jettison the knife may be that food itself, however elaborate it might look on the plate, is now less complicated to eat.

Among my greatest eating disappointments was dinner at one of the more affordable establishments in the smart American resort of Jackson Hole, Wyoming. It was early summer, and I ordered trout, reasoning that with the mountain streams bubbling along not a million miles away, there was a sporting chance of being served a real, fresh fish. Having been trained to deal with herring and mackerel at Friday lunch as a child, I was thoroughly prepared for the challenge to come: taking off the head, slitting the fish open and removing the backbone, before starting to eat.

Alas, the oblong fillet that arrived on its plate could have come from a supermarket multi-pack (perhaps it did). In the industrialised world, it is only in France and some other parts of Continental Europe that fish on the menu routinely translates into a whole fish on the plate. Another hard-learnt skill that is fast becoming redundant.







Trees have deep roots; don't move them



As it happened, I was passing Westminster Abbey when they were unloading those trees that lined the nave for the royal wedding. They arrived in two enormous dark-blue lorries labelled Tendercare and looked as tall as they looked small against the vast height of the church. Whether it was the wedding that set the trend, I don't know, but moving whole trees around seems to be quite the thing. Exhibitors at the Chelsea Flower Show, which opens in two weeks' time, are also importing some large trees, as though there were any shortage of them around the Royal Hospital grounds.

I have always delighted in trees. Aged only a few months, according to my mother, I was happiest parked in my pram underneath the laburnum tree in our garden, where I would watch the branches for hours. I've seen a lot of trees since then, and they are extraordinarily different all over the world; Mediterranean oaks and pines are quite unlike ours; trees in countries bordering the north-west Pacific really do look like those in oriental paintings; Australian trees look like trees nowhere else in the world. I understand why the Germans are so exercised when their conifers are browned by disease, and why the fate of the rainforest arouses such passions. In Britain, the gaps left by Dutch elm disease have never completely been filled. Most of all, though, I regret the vanishing larches. Trees belong in their landscape. That's why they should be left where they are.







A tale of two National Health Services



The head of the Metropolitan Police, Sir Paul Stephenson, is just back from extended sick leave, which included treatment for a pre-cancerous tumour and a subsequent fracture to his leg. He's still walking with a stick, but he looks well and, at his first public address last week, he was full of praise for the treatment he received as an NHS patient at Manchester's Royal Infirmary.

The next day, I read about the plight of poor Baroness Sharples. At 88, Lady Sharples was whisked off to Accident & Emergency at St Thomas's in London after "overdoing it" – her words – following a knee replacement operation. The ambulance came at once, but she was left on a trolley for almost five hours before she was found a bed, and she was only examined by a doctor after that. According to the newspaper report, A&E staff were having to deal with a succession of drunks. Lady Sharples, to her immense credit, never once mentioned that she was a member of the House of Lords.

Now I'm glad Sir Paul received such wonderful treatment, but I fear this contrast says something about the health service more generally. Sir Paul did not go through A&E and no one at the MRI could possibly have been unaware of who he was. Not only that, but he is a strapping great man with something serious and interesting wrong with him. This combination tends to bring out the best in our health service. Lady Sharples, on the other hand, seems to have experienced what it was to be just another elderly woman brought into A&E. Enough said – alas.





React Now

Day In a Page

Read Next
Sibling rivalry: The public enemy (left) confronts his brother  

The new version of Ibsen's Public Enemy is a drama where democracy doesn't win any votes

Tom Sutcliffe
 

As Hay-on-Wye opens this week, it's time for book festivals to open a new and exciting chapter

David Lister

Johnny Marr talks relationships and reunions

He's worked with Modest Mouse, the Pet Shop Boys and Beck, to name a few, and recently released his first solo album. So why, wonders Johnny Marr, do people still hark on about The Smiths?
After the flood: From Haiti to Britain, one man has captured the devastation of our increasingly deluged lands

In pictures: After the flood

From Haiti to Britain, one man has captured the devastation of our increasingly deluged lands
Death becomes her: Meet the very modern mortician who champions 'cool' funerals

Death becomes her: A very modern mortician

Ever considered baking a loved one's remains into a cake or putting their ashes in fireworks? If so, talk to Caitlin Doughty, champion of the alternative death industry.
How long can the 'Keep Calm' trend carry on?

How long can the 'Keep Calm' trend carry on?

At first it seemed clever and cute. Then the 'Keep Calm' motif went mad, spawning endless offshoots.
The man who built Brum: A lament for the demise of John Madin's Brutalist Birmingham

John Madin: The man who built Brum

The architect's buildings were supposed to leave an indelible, futuristic mark on his beloved hometown but they are now being inexorably torn down.
School of chop: Learning the art of butchery at the Ginger Pig

School of chop: Learning the art of butchery

How do you butcher a lamb? Or make Mexican street food in a British kitchen? Christopher Hirst finds out.
James Pembroke: The man who's eaten everywhere

The man who's eaten everywhere

Few people know more about restaurants than James Pembroke, who only spent five mealtimes at home during his entire childhood.
A Berliner in 1963 – but did John F Kennedy once admire Adolf Hitler?

A Berliner in 1963 – but did John F Kennedy once admire Adolf Hitler?

The young JFK praised 'superior' Nordic races during visits to Germany
Banned Iranian director Mohammad Rasoulof to attend Cannes Film Festival 2013, his first public appearance since prison

Banned Iranian director to attend Cannes Film Festival

Mohammad Rasoulof to make his first public appearance since being imprisoned three years ago
Seeing the larger picture: Inspiring images of space

Seeing the larger picture: Inspiring images of space

An exhibition explores images how photography has shaped astronomy
Eat Spam and carry on: Wartime pamphlets could teach us a thing or two about healthy, thrifty eating

Eat Spam and carry on

Wartime pamphlets could teach us a thing or two about healthy, thrifty eating
Facial hair: Cat beards and the purrrsuit of excellence

Facial hair

Cat beards and the purrrsuit of excellence
The 10 Best salt and pepper sets

The 10 Best salt and pepper sets

Whether they're for everyday use or to make your dining table look just right, it's worth getting a stylish shaker...
Ferran Soriano: Predicting success if Manchester City 'vision' is followed

Ferran Soriano: Predicting success if Manchester City 'vision' is followed

Chief executive says trophies will come if a 'core' of suitable players is in place
Thomas Müller: We couldn't handle losing a Champions League Final again

Thomas Müller: We couldn't handle losing a Champions League Final again

The Bayern Munich forward tells Tim Rich his side have to shed chokers' tag after two recent final defeats