A.A. Gill is so often found gratuitously insulting sucessful women, that you'd be forgiven for thinking this was his primary profession.
It is merely a hobby. In fact, Gill's tax return reads "restaurant critic" and it is with this hat on that he mounts a critique of the Michelin guide and it's globally famous system of rating restaurants in this month's Vanity Fair
"The Michelin guide made kitchens as competitive as football teams, becoming the most successful and prestigious guidebook in the world, and along the way it killed the very thing it had set out to commend," he writes. "It wasn’t the only assassin of the greatest national food ever conceived, but it’s not hyperbole to say Michelin was French haute cuisine’s Brutus."