Now, most of us have no idea what English wine is supposed to taste like, beyond a vague folk memory of something undrinkable called Concord in the Seventies. Many of us, in truth, would have difficulty telling a Chilean Merlot from a tin of boot polish. As long as Chateau Jeffries used good- quality kits, everyone was happy. Especially Mr Jeffries, making a pounds 30,000- a-year profit from following simple instructions and sticking on bogus labels.
Even the prosecution had to admit to Falmouth magistrates: "People were buying what they had tasted and liked." It seems churlish, then, to complain that the wording on the label did not correspond precisely with the contents. For most people the whole point of drinking is to get away from such unnecessary attention to detail. Another glass anyone?