Letter: At the cutting edge of good cooking

Sir: I can heartily endorse Keith Botsford's paean to the Chinese cleaver (Weekend, 26 June). Visiting Macau on business, I braved the charnel house that is the local fish and fowl market. Fishmongers must satisfy customers as to the freshness of their produce by filleting the fish, alive, and leaving the heart visibly beating - this is accomplished with the ubiquitous weighted cleaver.

I was impressed enough to buy a Chinese cleaver, and, although disinclined to perform open-heart surgery on my fish or attempt the slicing speed of Chinese cooks, I do find it surprisingly versatile and satisfying to use.

Yours faithfully,

GRAEME KAY

London, SW4

28 June