Admittedly The Good Food Guide is pedestrian, but its middlebrow tone is preferable to the drivel of A A Gill, whose contributions include: "Fish smiles. Fish is holistic ... Fish is for equal-opportunity acupuncture."
What to do? A little less self-consciousness and a little more enjoyment, perhaps. Otherwise, Voltaire's remark that the English take their pleasures sadly will remain true for a while yet.
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