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Most people who know and have used English Bread and Yeast Cookery will have been astonished to read that Andrew Coulson (letter, 12 December) thinks it "careless and self-indulgent". I must point out that in the recipe for the spice mixture he refers to, Mrs David suggests that black pepper may be replaced by allspice if preferred.
Like many of her friends, I often ate the food she cooked. It was never elaborate; it was always delicious. It was served simply, with a minimum of fuss.
There is one thing Mr Coulson got right - she liked more salt than most people now use.
Yours sincerely, ROSI HANSON London, N1
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