Tripe: A Most Excellent Dish, By Marjory Houlihan

 

Christopher Hirst
Friday 30 December 2011 01:00
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Calling this book pure tripe is the highest commendation. It is partly a celebration of a dish mentioned in The Taming of the Shrew, also esteemed by Samuel Pepys (who provided the sub-title) and partly lament for the lost tripe shops of the north, such as the Lancashire chain UCP (United Cow Products), which once had a dozen cafés "assuring quality, comfort and no fancy prices".

Fortunately, UCP produce is still available at Salford Market. Just imagine the joyous reaction of newly arrived BBC executives when they encounter honeycomb and black tripe and cowheel. They will be assisted by 30 pages of recipes in this volume. As the motto of a West Yorkshire retailer goes: "Don't talk tripe – Eat it!"

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