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Brunch on Saturday: Fine alfresco winter dining and spiced apple fritters

Brunch out (literally) in The Ivy in Chelsea’s winter wonderland or stay home and whip up spicy fritters perfect for a seasonal start to the day

Emma Henderson
Friday 23 December 2016 15:14 GMT
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The heated outside area, next to the open fireplace
The heated outside area, next to the open fireplace

Brunching out...

Most of the time, I won’t believe the hype. I don’t like to read books that are talked about everywhere until much later and I’m unlikely to get into a TV series that is gripping the nation. But when it comes to restaurants, I will actually take recommendations – from a select few people. The Ivy in Chelsea is one of those places that could easily just hide behind its prestigious name. But it does not.

Drawing you in with seasonal decorations adorning the whole of the exterior (of its Grade II listed building), this is a time to judge a book by its cover, as it’s clear the brand cares as much about the outside as it does the inside.

And this one has opened its own winter garden in its substantial outside space, serving brunch on the weekends between 11.30am and 4pm. Don’t let the word “garden” put you off, there’s an open fire, heaters, a fire pit and plenty of pretty foliage – so much that it could even trick you into thinking you’re in a tropical jungle rather than south London.

And over the festive period, there is a huge Christmas tree in the garden, adorned with orange and cinnamon decorations, that is just screaming for you to take a picture in front of it.

Roasted butternut squash with grains from the mains menu (Paul Winch-Furness)

It’s also the kind of place where brunch is not just confined to eggs and avocados – although there is plenty of that, including a decadent lobster Benedict served with asparagus – it’s a three-course affair, if you want it to be. Starters cover crispy duck salad to eggs royal, while mains range from a homely shepherd’s pie to a hamburger and veggie-friendly roasted butternut squash. It’s vast. And dishes are deceptively filling. Then there are desserts to suit chocoholics, cheese lovers and those with a sweet tooth. Of course, you can indulge on drinks, too, with bloody Marys and Aperol spritzes as well as some of their own concoctions – or non-alcoholic cocktails – and pick your favourite tea from a solid tea selection to round it all off.

The interior is separated into different areas, a more causal section at the back in the orangery and a more formal restaurant towards the front. It’s vintage luxury in design, with earthy tones and a down to earth yet elegant feel, with an added touch of Victoriana in the form of delicate framed pictures of flowers and plants .

So, sometimes, we should believe the hype – and book ahead for weekends.

The Ivy Chelsea Garden, 195-197 King’s Road, London SW3 5EQ; 020 3301 0300; theivychelseagarden.com

Brunching in...

Spiced Granny Smith fritters

For those of you who love apples and doughnuts, these fritters are a delicious combination of the two – crispy on the outside with soft, tart apple in the middle. I sometimes make a dipping sauce of cream cheese, cinnamon and honey to serve with them.

Makes about 20 fritters

225g self-raising flour
2 tbsp caster sugar
1/4 tsp ground ginger
Pinch of ground nutmeg
Pinch of ground cloves
2 large Granny Smith apples, peeled and cut into 5mm cubes
2 eggs, beaten
180ml whole milk
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
Butter, for frying
Icing sugar, to serve

Combine the flour, sugar, ginger, nutmeg and cloves together in a bowl. Add the apple and toss around in the dry mixture until well coated. Pour in the eggs, milk and vanilla extract and stir gently until everything is combined.

Put a small knob of butter into a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Use a large spoon to add a portion of apple batter to the pan. Spoon more fritters into the pan, but don’t overcrowd it – I find doing 4-5 at a time is enough. Fry for 2-3 minutes until golden and then flip the fritters over to fry the other side for a further 2-3 minutes until golden and crisp all over. Remove the fritters from the pan using a slotted spoon or spatula and drain on kitchen paper. Add more batter to the pan and continue cooking until all the batter has been used. You can crisp the fritters back up in a very hot oven for 5 minutes before serving.

Breakfast Morning, Noon and Night by Fern Green. Hardie Grant, £18.99

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