Anthony Rose: 'The new burgundy vintage is one year behind'


Anthony Rose
Saturday 04 January 2014 01:00

Burgundy is on a roll, bordeaux a roller-coaster. In 2013, bordeaux failed to deliver a good enough vintage to make it worth buying early.

Next spring, that is, when the 2013 vintage is sold en primeur, or, as futures, before being bottled and delivered two years later. My crocodile tears are for the fact that bordeaux had its fat years in the 2000s, not least with great vintages of 2009 and 2010 and extravagant prices to match.

In the unlikely event that I'll have the cash to splash on fine wine this year, it will be sooner rather than later because the new burgundy vintage is one year behind. Come again? Yes, like a greyhound out of its trap, 2012 burgundy goes on sale from next week at the numerous burgundy specialist tastings in London. The number is growing along with the reputation of, and demand for, burgundy.

I can't be certain at this stage that 2012 is a vintage to buy, but word on the grapevine is that the vintage is good but small and demand will be high. This will likely put pressure on prices, especially for big-name small growers such as Fourrier, Cathiard, Grivot, de Montille, Dujac, Roumier, Ponsot, Lignier, Vougeraie, Leflaive and Lafon. Although burgundy is fragmented and needs some effort, it's worth it in good vintages.

The key is to watch out for names on the up such as Duroché, Humbert, Taupenot-Merme, Denis Mortet, Bernard Moreau, Sylvain Pataille, Confuron-Cotetidot, and look at lesser appellations such as Marsannay, Fixin and Auxey-Duresses.

If you're keen, form an orderly queue for at least one of the tastings in London in the next couple of weeks.

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