The life of pie: Skye Gyngell's sweet and savoury pastries

Sweet or savoury, traditional or Tatin... Master a few simple pastry-making methods and the pie's the limit, says Skye Gyngell

What could be nicer in this cold winter than a home-made pie straight from the oven – delicate, flaky and buttery pastry steaming with all manner of delicious things hidden within? Sweet and savoury are equally good, and endless combinations are possible.

While I have included here a recipe for a simple veal and pork pie, feel free to replace the meats with rabbit or pigeon. In summer, try banana and strawberry as a strangely happy alternative to the more traditional apple. Once you have mastered these simple recipes for the sweet and savoury pastries, the only thing holding you back will be your imagination.

Skye Gyngell is head chef at Petersham Nurseries, Church Lane, Richmond, Surrey, tel: 020 8605 3627, petershamnurseries.com

Veal and pork pie

Serves 6

For the pastry

500g/1lb plain flour
250g/8oz unsalted cold butter, cut into cubes
1 whole egg
1 egg yolk
A pinch of salt
2 tsp Parmesan, finely grated
2 sprigs of marjoram, leaves only, finely chopped
1 tbsp of iced water, if needed

To make the pastry, put all the ingredients in a food processor. Turn the setting to pulse. Quite quickly the consistency will appear similar to set sand. Continue to pulse until the pastry forms a ball. If the pastry appears dry, add a little iced water to help the dough come together. Remove from the processor and divide the pastry into two. Mould into a disc shape. This will make it easier to roll without overworking it. Wrap in clingfilm or parchment paper and place in the fridge for 30 minutes.

For the filling

1 tbsp olive oil
2 medium-sized carrots, peeled and sliced into quarter-inch pieces
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 stick of celery, chopped
1 medium-sized bunch of marjoram, leaves only
2 fresh bay leaves
250g/8oz minced pork
250g/8oz veal
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
200ml/7fl oz full-bodied red wine
400g/13oz good-quality tinned tomatoes
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 egg, to glaze

To make the filling, place over a medium heat a heavy-based pan large enough to hold all the ingredients comfortably. Once the pan is warm, add the olive oil, chopped carrots, onion and celery, marjoram and bay. Cook over a medium to low flame until the vegetables are translucent but not browned. At this point, add the meat and stir the ingredients together well. Cook for five minutes then add the garlic and wine. Turn up the heat slightly to cook off the alcohol from the wine. Now add the tomatoes and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Turn the heat once again to low and cook for 45 minutes, stirring every now and then until the sauce is reduced and is rich and very flavoursome. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. Remove from the stove and allow to cool to room temperature

After 30 minutes, remove one of the discs of pastry from the fridge and, on a well-floured surface, roll out large enough to line a 20cm fluted pie tin that is about 3cm deep – the rolled round should be at least 28cm in diameter. Now lift the pastry into the tin and press firmly using your thumb into the sides of the tin. Prick the base well all over using a fork and return to the fridge for a further 30 minutes.

While the pastry is chilling, heat your oven to 180C/350F/Gas4. Now remove the tart shell from the fridge, line with parchment paper and half-fill with dried beans. Bake the pastry on the middle shelf of the oven for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool a little.

While the pastry is cooling, roll out the second disc to around 5cm thick. Remove the parchment paper and beans from the base and spoon in the meat mixture. Using a rolling pin, lift the pastry and lay on top. Press the pastry edges together once again using your thumbs. Cut a cross in the centre and brush with egg glaze and return to the middle shelf for 30 minutes or until the pie is golden-brown and the mixture is bubbling inside. Remove from the oven and place on a wire rack for a few minutes to cool slightly and serve.

Tarte Tatin

Serves 6

1 cup flour, sifted
Pinch of salt
125g/4oz unsalted butter, cut into cubes
1/8 cup iced water

For the tart

9-10 apples
3/4 cup sugar
2 tbsp unsalted butter

First make the dough. Put half the flour and salt in a mixer. On a low speed, add the butter, increasing the speed to blend the ingredients, then reducing it once more to add the remainder of the flour. Add the water and combine until you have a firm dough. Remove from mixer, wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for an hour.

When ready to use, roll the dough into a circle which is a quarter-of-an-inch thick and slightly larger than the pan you are using; a traditional tarte Tatin is about nine inches round and two inches deep. Next, fold the dough in half and then half again to form a triangle, then place in the fridge until you are ready to use.

In the meantime, peel the apples, cut them in half lengthways and remove the seeds. Sprinkle the sugar evenly across the bottom of the pan, cut the butter into pieces and place on top of the sugar.

Arrange the apple halves in the pan so that each half is facing the same way and standing, leaning up against the edge. Cut one or two of the apple halves in half again and stand in the centre of the pan. Any leftover apple should be kept to fill in the gaps which appear when cooking. Place the pan over a medium heat so that the sugar melts and combines with the butter. As the apples cook, their juices will bubble up around them – rotate the apples where they stand or shake the pan from time to time to prevent them from sticking.

When the apples have cooked down enough to create room in the pan, gently move them apart and fit in the remaining apple halves. It can take up to one hour for the caramel to reduce – be very careful not to burn it. When the caramel is a rich deep amber/brown colour, remove from heat.

Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas5. Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unfold it and drape over the apples. Trim the edges so that it only just leaks over edges of pan. Tuck the dough around the apples and bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 40 minutes or until the dough is golden-brown. Once ready, remove from the oven and let it sit for 30 minutes so the apples absorb more of the hot caramel – though no longer, as the caramel may stick to the pan, causing the apples to fall apart when the tart is removed from the pan.

Place a plate on top of the pan and turn over to remove the tart. It is best served once it has rested for a couple of hours, with a generous dollop of crème fraîche.

Apple and cinnamon pie

Serves 6

For the pastry

500g/1lb plain flour
250g/8oz cold unsalted butter
A few drops of vanilla extract
1 whole egg
1 egg yolk
2-3 tbsp iced water
A little milk with which to brush the pie
1 tbsp caster sugar to finish the pie

For the filling

6 Cox's apples, peeled, cored, cut into quarters
100g/31/2oz caster sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tbsp soft brown sugar
Grated zest and juice of one lemon

For the pastry, sift the flour into a bowl and rub in the butter using your fingers until you have the consistency of wet sand. Stir in the vanilla extract. Beat the whole egg, yolk and water and sprinkle over the flour mix. Work together with your fingers until you have a ball. Remove and knead lightly and quickly. Divide into two, wrap in clingfilm and place in the fridge.

For the filling, place the apples in a bowl and add all the other ingredients. Toss together well.

Roll out one disc of the pastry on a well-floured surface so it is 3cm thick and 28cm in diameter. Line your tin with the pastry, pressing in the sides with your thumbs. Return to the fridge for 30 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 180C/350F/Gas4, then remove and line the pastry base with parchment and dried beans and cook on the middle shelf for 15 minutes. Remove and allow to cool a little then spoon in the filling. Roll out the second disc as finely as possible and lay on top of the apple mix. Press together the pastry using your thumbs and brush with the milk. Return to the middle shelf of the oven for 30 minutes or until the pastry is golden-brown. Remove and cool slightly on a rack then scatter over the sugar and serve

Remove and place on a wire rack for 10 minutes to cool slightly – this pie should not be served too hot. Serve with thick, runny, double cream or vanilla ice-cream.