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If there were a Kim Kardashian of the berry world, I feel confident it would be the avocado (yes, it is indeed a berry). Consider the evidence. When the avocado set out on the road to megastardom, few people wanted to touch it with a barge pole. It was thought fit only to act as a receptacle for that most déclassé of things, the prawn cocktail.
Today, though, it has grown into a world-girdling culinary colossus, without which half the pictures on Instagram would be denuded of their ability to make us salivate.
There are tumblrs dedicated to avocados and, as a quick Google of the words "avocado tattoo" reveals, a roaring trade in more permanent reminders of their virtues, which isn't bad for something whose name comes from the Aztec word for testicle.
We can only speculate as to why they have risen without a trace so successfully. Is it that they are a "superfood"? Is it that they are an indulgence, full of fat, albeit of the best sort? Or the fact that they photograph so well on an iPhone? Whichever, there is no denying that they are the food of the moment. But, the question is, for how long? The avocado may soon be endangered.
50 best foods for healthy livingShow all 50 1 /5050 best foods for healthy living 50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Live yoghurt - Many with digestive issues avoid dairy, but live yoghurt may be worth a shot, as it is full of gut-friendly bacteria. Because the lactose in live yoghurt is effectively broken down, it is gentler on the system than milk.
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50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Chia seeds - Just two tablespoons of chia seeds provide a third of your recommended daily intake of fibre.
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50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Sauerkraut - Fermented foods like sauerkraut (fermented cabbage) is packed with probiotics, aiding digestion.
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50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Lentils - High in insoluble fibre, lentils are great for digestion, as well as being regarded as beneficial in alleviating irritable bowel syndrome and diverticulosis.
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50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Buckwheat - Despite the name, buckwheat is completely wheat and gluten free and a great, high fibre alternative to anyone with a wheat intolerance.
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50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Oranges - Citrus fruits such as oranges are high in Vitamin C, which helps to prevent colds and infection.
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50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Mushrooms - Shiitake mushrooms have been shown in studies to boost the production of white blood cells, thus improving the body’s ability to fight infection.
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50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Clams - Contain zinc and selenium, which helps to slow the body’s immune response and control inflammation.
50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Garlic - Packed with antioxidants, garlic was used to fight gangrene in World War I, but more practically can help to keep colds at bay. It is also quite anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal, and used to treat everything from psoriasis to athlete’s foot.
50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Broccoli - One cup of broccoli provides you with almost 100% of your RDA of vitamin C, which is thought to stave off colds and other illnesses. It is also rich in vitamin A, K, folate and potassium. Cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli contain a sulphurous compound that studies show can lower the risk of cancer.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Avocado - The good fats in avocado hydrate the skin, while omega 9 can help reduce redness. Avocado is also rich in vitamin E, which helps guard against sun damage and vitamin C, which helps produce elastin and collagen for skin firmness.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Sunflower seeds - a handful contains more than a third of your daily vitamin E needs.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Pumpkin - One of the richest sourcs of Vitamin A, which is essential for the formation of connective tissue, i.e. skin.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Olive oil - The monounsaturated fatty acids in olive oil plump the skin for a more youthful look, plus antioxidant polyphenols may curb ageing free-radicals.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Green tea - Polyphenols in green tea could help to offset sun damage.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Cinnamon - This spice is a great additive for breakfasts and bakes if you are trying to cut sugar and sweeteners, and it is also thought to help balance blood sugar.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Apples - Apples are high in pectin, a soluble fibre that helps to keep you feeling fuller for longer.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Eggs - One of the best sources of protein, eggs help to keep you energised and prevent unhealthy snacking, while providing a host of vitamins and minerals for general good health.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Tuna- High in protein, low in saturated fat and rich in omega 3, tuna is a fantastic option for maintained weight loss. The omega 3 in oily fish improves the body’s response to insulin, lowering metabolism and helping to prevent the dreaded sugar spikes.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Oats - High in fibre for slow-release energy, oats also are thought to lower cholesterol.
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Beetroot - This is a good source of iron and folic acid. It is also rich in nitrates, which help to reduce blood pressure.
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Garlic - High in manganese, selenium and antioxidants, garlic is thought to help lower blood pressure and reduce cholesterol.
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Asparagus - Rich in the amino acid asparagine, which serves as a natural diuretic and helps rid the body of excess salts. This is beneficial for people have high blood pressure or other heart-related diseases.
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Salmon - Studies have found that eating oily fish such as salmon can lower blood pressure and reduce cholesterol. Rich in Omega-3 fatty acids,
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Pomegranate - Rich in vitamins A, C and E, and high in fibre, pomegranates are thought to help protect against heart disease. A 2004 study showed evidence that daily consumption helped to alleviate narrowed arteries and reduce cholesterol.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Mackerel - Oily fish including mackerel is rich in Omega 3, which studies have suggested is linked to a reduced risk of dementia, schizophrenia and depression, as well as enhanced memory.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Hazelnuts - HIgh in Vitamin E, which studies say can help to prevent cognitive decline in older people.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Blueberries - low in calories and high in antioxidants, blueberries are regarded as a nutritional powerhouse. Some studies have found a link between blueberry consumption and improved spatial learning and memory.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Cacao - Contains phenylethylamine, which acts as a mild mood enhancer, and a 2009 study shows signs that it can help to reduce stress. However, adding sugar and milk to cacao to make your favourite chocolatey treat offsets any health benefits - try to keep it as close to its natural state as possible.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Pumpkin seeds - Just a handful of pumpkin seeds a day provide your total RDA of zinc, which is important for enhancing your memory.
50 best foods for healthy living Energy Sweet potatoes - Starchy veg like sweet potatoes are a great source of low-GI carbohydrates for slow-burn, long-lasting energy. Sweet potatoes are also rich in soluble fibre and vitamins A, C and B6.
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50 best foods for healthy living Energy Beef - Low energy levels are often a sign of iron deficiency or anaemia. Lean cuts of beef are a good source of iron, as well as being a protein powerhouse to aid muscle development and stamina.
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50 best foods for healthy living Energy Brown Rice - Complex carbohydrates like brown rice break down into energy-boosting sugars more slowly than white rice, meaning more energy for longer, and more balanced blood sugar levels - i.e. no nasty sugar crash within hours of eating.
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50 best foods for healthy living Energy Bananas - A great source of energy that keep sugar levels balanced, plus the sweet taste will help to satisfy cravings.
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50 best foods for healthy living Energy Quinoa - This supergrain contains more protein than rice or any other grain, ideal for building muscle, along with being a nutrient-rich source of carbohydrates.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Sardines - Sunshine is the best source of bone-building Vitamin D, but if a British summer doesn’t allow for that, sardines are a surprising source, as well as being rich in calcium.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Brussel sprouts - Just three-quarters of a cup of this divisive winter vegetable provides your RDA of vitamin K, which is essential in helping the absorption of calcium for healthy bones.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Chickpeas - High in protein and fibre, chickpeas are also packed with iron, phosphate, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc and vitamin K, which contribute to building and maintaining strong bones.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Spinach - If dairy isn’t your thing, spinach could be your saviour - a cup of cooked spinach contains a quarter of your calcium needs.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Almonds - Rich in potassium, which prevents the excretion of calcium in urine, as well as being rich in protein and other nutrients for maintaining bone health.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Prawns - Rich in zinc, which is essential for sperm quality and fertility.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Tomatoes - high in lycopene, an antioxidant which, according to the World Cancer Research Fund, can help reduce the risk of prostate cancer. Strangely, cooked and tinned tomatoes are recommended, as the lycopene is more readily absorbed.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Brazil nuts - High in selenium, which boosts the immune system and strengthens the thyroid gland.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Cauliflower - Rich in vitamin C, potassium and boron, which is said to aid in increasing testosterone levels and muscle-building.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Turkey - With obesity an escalating problem for men, turkey is a great swap for your morning bacon. HIgh in lean protein, it is full of B vitamins, which can aid in lowering cholesterol.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Walnuts - These nuts contain antioxidants and phytosterols that may help reduce the risk of breast cancer.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Green beans - Low in fat, bean are a great source of protein and fibre and can also help to guard against breast cancer and heart disease. Isoflavones in beans, chickpeas and lentils help with the regulation of hormones, easing PMS and menopause symptoms.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Flax - One of the oldest sources of fibre in the world, flaxseed can ease digestion as well as providing omega 3 fatty acids. It is also thought to be of help with menopause, but some experts say it should be avoided if pregnant.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Cranberries - Rich in anthocyans, red berries such as cranberries help to play a role in cell repair and are thus thought to reduce cancer risk. Also high in vitamin C and folic acid, essential for women of childbearing age, and cranberry juice is a fantastic way to get rid of cystitis.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Tofu - A great source of phytoestrogens, which can help with the symptoms of menopause and polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS).
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The reasons are simple: water and drugs. On a trip to LA recently, I climbed Runyon Canyon and looked down over the city and to the hills around it. It was all dry. In fact, it looked like that planet Luke Skywalker grew up on in the first Star Wars film. Ninety-eight per cent of the state of California is officially classed as being in drought. And California produces a billion pounds of avocados through the March-to-September season. The problem is, it takes 318l of water to produce 1lb of avocados. Not only does that mean water is drawn away from more essential public uses – it also means that water costs more for the farmers.
Meanwhile, the amount of land used for avocado farming in Chile has increased eight-fold in 25 years and, as an article in Mother Jones magazine pointed out in October, the process is draining the groundwater and village wells.
In Mexico, the problem isn't so much water, but that most of the groves are within the state of Michoacan, which is largely controlled by the Caballeros Templarios cartel. Murder and extortion are so common in the industry that one security expert refers to them as "blood avocados".
Admittedly, anything produced in Michoacan is open to the suggestion that it helps support organised crime and there is no denying that dairy farms use more water than avocado farms. But still, it is not a rosy picture. Death and drought are two words you certainly don't want to hear while eating a salad. And even if you are unmoved by such ethical considerations, there is one thing you can't ignore: avocados are likely to continue getting more and more expensive.
The English language mostly seems unusually cruel in enclosing both the desire for something and its absence in the word "want". But, in this instance, the double meaning is apt: our driving desire for avocados might mean we soon won't have any.
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