Designers revel in extremes of fashion

It was a day of extremes at the Milan collections for autumn/ winter 2002. In the good corner (safe and sophisticated) was Giorgio Armani, showing both his younger Emporio line and his more expensive Giorgio Armani collezione.

Once Sophia Loren, the ultimate Italian diva, was rescued from the paparazzi, Armani sent out a collection worked around baggy trousers. He had experimented with proportion in a monochrome palette and the highlights of his show were his winter coats, some woven from leather.

In the bad corner (exciting, fun, sexy) was Roberto Cavalli. On a gilded catwalk lit with crystal chandeliers, the models were tested with the highest of heels and even Cindy Crawford, out of retirement in a purple astrakhan dress, looked nervous.

Cavalli had tights, dresses, and anoraks printed with jewels; brooches; Cartier's famous bejewelled tigers; swags of trompe l'oeil pearls. There were python-skin trousers with intricate flower cut-outs, tailored gaudy tweeds and patent chocolate power suits.

Crawford said. "He is a very special friend, a real joy, and full of life. I love the Italians, they really know how to live."