Rhodes travel tips: Where to go and what to see in 48 hours

Even without its Colossus, the island's capital has no shortage of wonders, as Simon Calder discovers

Hippocrates square in the old town (Getty)

Travel essentials

Why go now?

The capital of the fourth-biggest Greek island claims an astonishing repertoire of influences, from classical to Art Deco. The walled Old Town is intensely beautiful, its old stones testifying to a dramatic history. Yet Rhodes Town is also a haven for 21st-century indulgence, with beaches a few minutes away. And, from Wednesday, the island and its capital become even easier to reach as British Airways starts scheduled flights.

Touch down

BA (0344 493 0787; ba.com) competes head-to-head with easyJet (0330 365 5000; easyJet.com) from Gatwick, while Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com) flies from Stansted and East Midlands. Thomson and Thomas Cook Airlines are also about to start their summer schedules to the island.

From the airport, bus No 36 runs according to an erratic schedule. The journey takes 30-40 minutes, with a number of stops along the coast including Hrysanthou Square (1) before its terminus at Cyprus Square (2). The fare is €2.20; a taxi costs exactly 10 times as much, and takes about 20 minutes. On the way in, admire the mount-ains of Turkey's Datça Peninsula.

Get your bearings

The northern tip of the island narrows to a point, occupied by the city's Aquarium (3). The attractive New Town, dotted with Art Deco buildings from the Italian era, spreads south from here for about a kilometre. The Mandraki Harbour, where the Colossus of Rhodes is said to have stood, ripples to the east. The Old Town is immediately to the south, its stout walls protecting many layers of history. The northern part is known as the Collachium, and was the location for the Knights of St John and the side industries that accompanied them during their two centuries of tenure, from 1309 to 1522. The Ottomans took over, and settled in the Turkish Quarter, a warren of lanes straddled by old stone arches. Tourist offices abound, both municipal and national, but the main one is where the Old and New Towns meet at Rimini Square (4) (00 30 22410 35240; rhodes.gr).

Check in

The Spirit of the Knights Boutique Hotel (5) in the Old Town (00 30 22410 39765; rhodesluxuryhotel.com) shows what can be achieved by innovation and investment. The Crusaders built the property, the Ottomans added their own touches, and 21st-century architects have worked with archaeologists to preserve the essence of the original structure. In peak season, the Pasha Suite sells for €375. But between now and 15 June, the Knights Chamber (for two) costs €145, including breakfast.

Outside the Old Town walls, the Amphitryon Boutique Hotel (6) is a smart new property at Diakou 10 (00 34 22410 20680; amphitryonhotel.gr). Doubles can start for as little as €45 including breakfast; a minimum-stay rule applies in summer.

If you prefer the Old Town, then Niki's Pension (7) at Sofokleous 39 (00 30 22410 25115; nikishotel.gr) is ideal: a pension with fine views from a high terrace. Doubles cost €50, with breakfast an extra €5 per person.

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Day one

Take a view

The best panorama of the New Town is to be seen from the northern tip of the quay protecting Mandraki Harbour – the apparent location for that short-lived Wonder of the World, the Colossus of Rhodes (8). Images suggesting that the towering figure stood astride the harbour entrance are thought to be fanciful. The 30m statue of Helios, the sun god, was erected in 280BC, then felled by an earthquake 54 years later.

Take a hike

Walk back along the quay, past the trio of medieval windmills that were used for grinding grain when it arrived on the island. At St Paul's Gate (9) follow the path to the left to the spit of land protecting Kolona Harbour. From the end, view the topography and towers of the Old Town. The main entrance to the Old Town is the Liberty Gate (10), which opens up to reveal the ruins of a Temple to Aphrodite (11). Go west along Ippoton, better known as the Street of the Knights and the main artery of the Collachium. This cobbled medieval relic, 600m long, is lined with the Inns of the Knights of St John, divided according to language – the Spanish Inn (12), halfway along on the south side, is a good example. At the top, the Grand Master's Palace (13) is a monument to Christian adventurism – though the current version is a 1930s renovation (the first was destroyed in a massive explosion in 1856). It opens 8am to 7.40pm, entry €6.

Lunch on the run

Just outside the Old Town, on the corner of Diakou and Venizelou, stands the city's best kebab joint, Avgoustinos (14). The best of the vernacular cuisine is pitta gyro with pork or chicken for around €4, including a beer or coffee.

Window shopping

In the Old Town, trading has endured since ancient times but with more and more stores aiming at the cruise-ship crowd, retailing has become a caricature.

The New Market (15), just beyond the northern edge of the Old Town, is touristy but has proper market stalls dispensing fresh produce and a dozen different types of honey. The main shopping area for locals is the star of streets radiating from Cyprus Square in the New Town. Most brands are familiar (Boss, Lacoste, Benetton), but a weak euro means the prices can be less than in the UK.

An aperitif

As shadows lengthen on the honey-coloured walls of the Old Town, settle on the top deck of Kontiki (16), a bar floating in Mandraki Harbour (00 30 22410 30826). A glass of ouzo costs €4.50. Sit and sip as the blue of the Mediterranean deepens and your appetite sharpens.

Dining with the locals

Romios (17) has just reopened for the summer at Sofokleous 15 (00 30 22410 25549; romios-rhodes.gr). Choose between dining outside on the patio or inside the handsome dining room draped with Oriental carpets. Try local cuisine, from squid risotto to the signature lamb dishes such as kamas, where the meat is stuffed with thyme-flavoured rice and baked in an earthenware pot.

Day two

Sunday morning: go to church

The Old Town contains two shattered but outstanding churches. The first, close to the Grand Master's Palace, is St John of the Collachio (18), a handsome hulk that is slowly being rescued. Walk from here along Panetiou and Hippodamou, perhaps pausing for coffee at the Old Town Corner Bakery (19). Thread along Omirou and Pythagoras, passing the Ibrahim Pasha Mosque (20) – the first in the city, built in 1531 at the start of the Ottoman era – to the haunting Gothic ruins of the Cathedral of Our Lady (21).

Out to brunch

Fournariko (22) at the corner of Platoons and Dinokratous (00 30 22410 43057) is a bakery with an ancient wood oven. Order a frappé and a large slab of baklava.

A walk in the park

Monte Smith (23), 2km west of the walls of the Old Town, is named after a British admiral, Sir William Smith. He used it as a look-out during the Napoleonic wars. You can wander freely through the remains of the stadium, the amphitheatre and the temple of Apollo.

Cultural afternoon

The entire Old Town is a living museum, but you can happily devote half a day to the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes (24). It is housed in the Hospital of the Knights, one of the Crusader complexes that transformed the city (00 30 22413 65256; 8am to 7.40pm daily; €6). While parts are cluttered and confusing, persevere: it takes you back 2,000 years and helps complete Rhodes's cultural jigsaw. Make sure you explore the whole venue because it's easy to miss parts. A highlight is the Villaragut Mansion, which gives an excellent idea of how the Knights lived.

Take a ride ...

… on a wave. South-west of town, the hills crumble down to a long, enticing beach. At Surfer's Paradise (00 30 22410 38893; surfersparadise.gr), sign up for a two-hour beginner's windsurfing lesson (€63, booked in advance).

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