Galerie Huit, Arles: At the heart of the art scene

Galerie Huit displays photographs at street level and cossets guests, like Mary Novakovich, in Provençal style upstairs

The B&B incorporates design from different eras

There's something about the light in Arles that is irresistible to artists; Van Gogh fell so heavily under its spell he produced 187 paintings in just 15 months. And modern-day artists have been following suit, opening new galleries and studios at a rapid rate.

This ancient Provençal town on the banks of the Rhône also attracted author and curator Julia de Bierre, a British expatriate who turned a dilapidated 17th-century townhouse into a sumptuous B&B with a ground-floor art gallery. Behind the severe façade is an enthralling mishmash of centuries, the first taste of which you get when you step inside the playfully Rococo guests' salon with a changing selection of modern photographs.

The current batch on display reflects Julia's other base, Penang, in Malaysia. During the annual Rencontres d'Arles photography festival, which this year runs from 6 July to 20 September, the gallery goes into overdrive as it stages exhibitions.

The bed

The three rooms offer a delightful romp through history. Barbentane is the sort of Provençal bedroom you would have seen in a 17th-century bourgeois house, with high ceilings, warm terracotta-tiled floor, partially canopied bed, antique sofa, chairs and desk, as well as wonderfully chintzy fabrics. The bathroom looks just as antique, but with a modern weathered brass rainforest shower.

Jump forward three centuries for the Josephine Baker Suite, which mixes Art Deco furniture and Far- Eastern motifs with a contemporary bathroom and kitchen. Then step back to the 18th century in the Marco Polo Suite, a large, elegant apartment with a kitchen and sitting room, and more than a touch of Venice in its wonderfully ornate furnishings.

The breakfast

When it's not warm enough to sit in the secluded courtyard garden, breakfast is served in the cosy Arlésienne kitchen, with its chunky Provençal tiles and range cooker. Laurence, the housekeeper, will cook eggs how you want them. She also puts on a generous spread of croissants, pains au chocolat, and rustic bread fresh from a local bakery, homemade jams, fresh fruit, juice, yoghurt and creamy goat's cheese with honey.

The host

Julia ended up in Arles in 2007 via Malaysia, Britain, Switzerland and various places in between, before opening her B&B in 2010. She now divides her time between Penang, Paris, and Arles. She and her staff are very welcoming and eager to share their vast knowledge about what to see and do in town. Julia also runs an artist-in-residence programme at Galerie Huit, nurturing up-and-coming artists from around the world.

The weekend

The B&B is just a few yards away from the ancient Roman ruins of the Théâtre Antique, and a two-minute walk from the swarms of people surrounding the splendidly preserved Roman arena.

Van Gogh's legacy lives on, 125 years after his death, at the Fondation Van Gogh (00 33 4 90 93 08 08; fondation-vincentvangogh-arles.org; €9/£6.40), which last year opened in its new home in the 15th-century Hôtel Léautaud de Donines. Exhibitions by contemporary artists pay homage to the Dutchman, such as the current one featuring Yan Pei-Ming and Bertrand Lavier. From 12 June to 20 September, 47 of Van Gogh's drawings will be on display alongside works by American artist Roni Horn.

There's a fascinatingly eclectic collection of old and contemporary art at Musée Réattu (00 33 4 90 49 37 58; museereattu.arles.fr; €8/£5.75). The rambling stone interiors of this 15th-century former priory of the knights of Malta are compelling enough on their own, but don't miss the salon with 57 of Picasso's sketches.

If you're in Arles on a Saturday morning, check out the market that takes over the Boulevard des Lices. It's the biggest in the region, with stall after stall selling fresh produce, street food, clothing and bric-a-brac.

The pit stops

The menu changes regularly at intimate L'Autruche in rue Dulau (00 33 4 90 49 73 63), featuring dishes such as scallops with a butternut squash cream. It's worth booking ahead.

Carry on walking a few minutes to reach La Roquette, a bustling district with a string of restaurants and cafés along rue des Porcelet. Pick of the bunch is Le Gibolin (00 33 4 88 65 43 14). Across the street is a little ice-cream café, Grenad'ine Ice (00 33 4 88 09 22 51), which does simple lunches of savoury crêpes and quiches along with some excellent ice cream.

The essentials

Galerie Huit, 8 rue de la Calade, Arles, France (00 33 6 82 04 39 60; galeriehuit.com). Doubles start at €90 (£65) a night, including breakfast and wi-fi. Minimum two-night stay.