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Sleepover: The Great House Hotel, Lavenham, Suffolk

Kate Simon
Tuesday 28 August 2001 00:00 BST
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Where is it?

In arguably the most beautiful medieval town in England: Lavenham in Suffolk.

What's it like?

A little bit of France in the heart of East Anglia. This restaurant with rooms is set in a fine Georgian house on the town square – it was once the home of the poet Stephen Spender.

What's its USP?

It's a true labour of love by owners Regis and Martine Crépy. I first came across the restaurant 15 years ago – we stopped for lunch on our way to the coast. It was so delicious that we changed our plans and stayed for dinner.

Ambience?

The restaurant dominates and as you can't just drop in these days – tables are booked well in advance – everyone is wearing their Sunday best. But that doesn't mean it's stuffy; the atmosphere is quite jolly.

Service?

Just about perfect. Poor service is a bugbear of Regis Crépy, as is evident from the impeccable standards he has instilled in his friendly, young, French staff.

Rooms?

Six. We stayed in the double room in the attic, which has its own en-suite bathroom. Fauvist-style paintings add to the French flavour, complemented by antiques and pastel fabrics. Bed and breakfast from £35 per person per night. Midweek breaks, with a minimum two-night stay, cost £62.95 per person per night, including dinner, bed and breakfast.

Food and drink?

The Great House is known for its fine cuisine – a couple of thousand foodies eagerly await mailings from Regis about his regular gourmet evenings. I was nervous dinner wouldn't meet my expectations 15 years on, and I am truly surprised to report that it surpassed them. We started with smoked pigeon and asparagus salad with caramelised apples and a quail's egg, and fresh fish soup with conger eel, red gurnard and mussels. For the main course we had roasted rack of lamb served with a garlic sauce, and pan-fried fillet of halibut, wrapped in a coat of green olives, with a tomato and fresh herb sauce. The cheeseboard shouldn't be missed. Simply delicious. Table d'hôte Sunday to Friday £19.95. A là carte: starters from £6.25, main courses from £14.95.

Clientele?

No real "type". Breakfast revealed an unsmiling middle-aged couple and other more amiable younger visitors.

Things to do?

When you've exhausted Lavenham's tea rooms and antique shops, Ipswich and Cambridge are less than an hour away. Aldeburgh Productions (01728 687110, www. aldeburgh.co.uk) runs events year round. More manic pursuits include driving quad bikes at Wildtracks near Newmarket.

Address?

The Great House Hotel, Market Place, Lavenham, Suffolk CO10 9QZ (01787 247431; fax: 01787 248007; www.greathouse.co.uk; email: greathouse@clara.co.uk).

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