El Bulli: Cooking in Progress (12A)


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The Independent Culture

To anyone used to documentaries or reality TV shows about hot-headed chefs, the most startling aspect of Gereon Wetzel's documentary is the forensic approach it takes to its subject matter.

This reflects the personality of Ferran Adrià, the owner of the celebrated Catalonian restaurant (which has now closed), El Bulli. Adrià regards cooking as a cross between science, religion and necromancy.

For six months a year, his restaurant was closed so that he and his team could head to the labs to test out new taste sensations. In its own cool and detached way, Wetzel's film makes fascinating viewing.