How community spirit turned Leeds into a foodie hotspot

Pop-ups, supper clubs and a thirst for local collaborations have put Leeds firmly on the foodie map. Fiona Whitty loosens her belt for a taste tour around some of its stalwarts and rising stars

Dishes at The Owl restaurant, Leeds (The Owl)

Ben Iley has barely drawn breath for days, so the chance to perch next to me for a quick chat is particularly welcome. “I’ve not sat down for two weeks,” he says, grinning infectiously. Iley is the head chef at House of Fu, a new noodle bar in Leeds city centre.

I visit on the restaurant’s third day of opening, a wet Monday lunchtime when the streets of Leeds are quiet following England’s loss in the Euro 2020 final the night before. But by 1pm, the restaurant is packed and buzzy, defying the sombre dampness outside. It’s a brave time to launch a new venture, but in this city the concept of eating out is clearly alive and kicking – even if England’s dreams of lifting silverware aren’t.

House of Fu is Iley’s brainchild (you could say love child, so evident is Ben’s passion for the project). His mission is to recreate the ramen he adored while working in Tokyo for nine years. “You’d compete with friends to see who could find the best place,” he reminisces.