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Why the red lip is more than just a festive fad

No matter the shade, women will always go back to red 

Sarah Young
Tuesday 29 November 2016 00:03 GMT
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Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2016
Mary Katrantzou Autumn Winter 2016 (AFP/Getty)

Nothing says party season quite like a red lip. It’s the beauty equivalent of sprucing up the Christmas tree or more trans-seasonally, slipping on an LBD.

No matter the time of year, women have long declared a crimson pout their bold-and-beautiful go-to for centuries. From Cleopatra to Marilyn Monroe, a swipe of red lipstick displays dominance, intrigue and a serious dose of style.

Proenza Schouler Autumn Winter 2016

While it is heralded as the primordial shade, scarlet lips aren’t a runway mainstay. Sure, they’re often there but very rarely in huge or influential numbers; until this season.

Coral, burgundy, ruby and merlot; the colour came in a variety of hues none like the one before it. Some were matte, some were glossy but they all packed a punch.

Prada Autumn Winter 2016 (AFP/Getty Images)

At Prada, legendary make-up artist Pat McGrath mixed three different shades of red together to create a rich, matte texture with heaps of dimension. Proenza Schouler opted for a similar, arresting shade but out of a cast of 36 models, only six were honoured with rosy chops; the colour of choice? Mac’s Lady Danger of course.

This wasn’t the only time it cropped up either. A designer that usually opts for a statement eye, Mary Katrantzou ditched her trademark style for a bold lip. Make-up maestro Val Garland patted two Mac favourites, Lady Danger and Ruby Woo onto the model’s pout and then off again at the edges to create a blurred, deconstructed effect.

What brings these looks together is their distinct fresh, cool and minimalistic approach to make-up elsewhere on the face. With a red lip, it’s important to keep the rest of the look simple to retain its glamour; unless you’re a Saint Laurent girl that is.

The idea of picking on feature to highlight when it comes to make-up went well and truly out the window here as slicked back hair, vibrant glossy lips and super-sultry smoked out eyes offered a punk aesthetic.

Saint Laurent Autumn Winter 2016 (AFP/Getty Images)

No matter the shade, women will always go back to red but before you give it a go there are a few things to consider. For serious staying power use a red liner to colour the entire lip but if it’s a more subtle, natural colour you’re after try patting on the lippie with your finger starting in the centre and dabbing outwards. This will create more of a stained lip and means you can try out new hues without going OTT.

It’s also really important to choose a tone that suits your complexion. Those with pale skin should opt for bright reds with blu undertones or darker hues like marsala. Medium complexions can get away with orange-based reds and burgundys while darker skin tones get the best of both worlds. Opt for a high-pigment, super bright orangey-red or an earthy, brown based shade.

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