Dial H&M for avant garde on the high street

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

Maison Martin Margiela is the latest name in a series of designer collaborations. See you in the queue, says Gemma Hayward

When it was announced that Maison Martin Margiela was intending to collaborate with H&M for the latter's latest designer venture, it wasn't as shocking as it would have been four or five years ago. Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace, Marni and, most significantly in this instance, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons have all lent their expertise to H&M. Still, the fact that Martin Margiela, the man who founded the label in 1988, is doubtless the most elusive character in fashion history made this something of a coup. It is the stuff of fashion legend that he never agreed to a single face-to-face interview or even to be photographed throughout his career.

Little is known of Margiela's past, save that he is a graduate of Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts and worked as a design assistant at Jean Paul Gaultier between 1984 and 1987. It is said that his reluctance to step into the spotlight is a direct reaction to Gaultier's superstar status. Margiela preferred to concentrate instead on the clothes. And what clothes. From the perfect, sharp-shouldered jacket to fine white jersey printed with trompe l'oeil sequinned dresses and from wide-legged slouchy trousers to the by now famous circular-heeled tabi shoes, this designer's work formed the fashion insider's wardrobe of choice.

Martin Margiela retired from his own label in 2009. Ever since, the collections have been designed by at least some of his long-standing team who have done much to stay true to his signatures. It is true to the spirit of this forward-thinking label that this collection is possibly the most creative H&M has ever stocked. Some of the house's most memorable fashion moments have been re-edited. Aimed at both men and women, garments and accessories have been labelled to indicate the season for which they were originally designed. It's an overview of the Margiela archive, but updated for the H&M customer to include different volumes, shapes and materials. Trompe l'oeil in the form of black bras on flesh-coloured bodies and invisible wedge boots make an appearance as does supersized clothing, such as pea coats and oversized bleached-denim jeans.

Then there are duvet coats, a car-seat-cover dress and clothing made of belts. The collection, which launches on 15 November, will be stocked in around 230 H&M stores worldwide and will also be available online. Expect long queues on Thursday.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Packaging Operatives

    £7 - £8 per hour: Recruitment Genius: An opportunity has arisen for two indivi...

    Ashdown Group: Trainee / Graduate Helpdesk Analyst

    £20000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A highly reputable business is looking to rec...

    Recruitment Genius: Estimator

    £28000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This company is a major supplier of buil...

    Recruitment Genius: Software Developer

    £28000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...

    Day In a Page

    Homeless Veterans appeal: 'You look for someone who's an inspiration and try to be like them'

    Homeless Veterans appeal

    In 2010, Sgt Gary Jamieson stepped on an IED in Afghanistan and lost his legs and an arm. He reveals what, and who, helped him to make a remarkable recovery
    Could cannabis oil reverse the effects of cancer?

    Could cannabis oil reverse effects of cancer?

    As a film following six patients receiving the controversial treatment is released, Kate Hilpern uncovers a very slippery issue
    The Interview movie review: You can't see Seth Rogen and James Franco's Kim Jong Un assassination film, but you can read about it here

    The Interview movie review

    You can't see Seth Rogen and James Franco's Kim Jong Un assassination film, but you can read about it here
    Serial mania has propelled podcasts into the cultural mainstream

    How podcasts became mainstream

    People have consumed gripping armchair investigation Serial with a relish typically reserved for box-set binges
    Jesus Christ has become an unlikely pin-up for hipster marketing companies

    Jesus Christ has become an unlikely pin-up

    Kevin Lee Light, aka "Jesus", is the newest client of creative agency Mother while rival agency Anomaly has launched Sexy Jesus, depicting the Messiah in a series of Athena-style poses
    Rosetta space mission voted most important scientific breakthrough of 2014

    A memorable year for science – if not for mice

    The most important scientific breakthroughs of 2014
    Christmas cocktails to make you merry: From eggnog to Brown Betty and Rum Bumpo

    Christmas cocktails to make you merry

    Mulled wine is an essential seasonal treat. But now drinkers are rediscovering other traditional festive tipples. Angela Clutton raises a glass to Christmas cocktails
    5 best activity trackers

    Fitness technology: 5 best activity trackers

    Up the ante in your regimen and change the habits of a lifetime with this wearable tech
    Paul Scholes column: It's a little-known fact, but I have played one of the seven dwarves

    Paul Scholes column

    It's a little-known fact, but I have played one of the seven dwarves
    Fifa's travelling circus once again steals limelight from real stars

    Fifa's travelling circus once again steals limelight from real stars

    Club World Cup kicked into the long grass by the continued farce surrounding Blatter, Garcia, Russia and Qatar
    Frank Warren column: 2014 – boxing is back and winning new fans

    Frank Warren: Boxing is back and winning new fans

    2014 proves it's now one of sport's biggest hitters again
    Jeb Bush vs Hillary Clinton: The power dynamics of the two first families

    Jeb Bush vs Hillary Clinton

    Karen Tumulty explores the power dynamics of the two first families
    Stockholm is rivalling Silicon Valley with a hotbed of technology start-ups

    Stockholm is rivalling Silicon Valley

    The Swedish capital is home to two of the most popular video games in the world, as well as thousands of technology start-ups worth hundreds of millions of pounds – and it's all happened since 2009
    Did Japanese workers really get their symbols mixed up and display Santa on a crucifix?

    Crucified Santa: Urban myth refuses to die

    The story goes that Japanese store workers created a life-size effigy of a smiling "Father Kurisumasu" attached to a facsimile of Our Lord's final instrument of torture
    Jennifer Saunders and Kate Moss join David Walliams on set for TV adaptation of The Boy in the Dress

    The Boy in the Dress: On set with the stars

    Walliams' story about a boy who goes to school in a dress will be shown this Christmas