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The collapse of Moscow: Architectural heritage being destroyed

Historic buildings 'demolished and neglected' in push to transform city into hub of ultra-capitalism

By Shaun Walker in Moscow

The Makakovskaya metro is considered the most beautiful station on the underground rail system

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The Makakovskaya metro is considered the most beautiful station on the underground rail system

Moscow's skyline and architectural heritage are on the verge of being destroyed forever because of low-quality renovations and thoughtless demolition, according to a report released yesterday by a group of Russian and international activists.

"There is no other capital city in peacetime Europe that is being subjected to such devastation for the sake of earning a fast megabuck," the Moscow Architecture Preservation Society stated in its report. The authors said that hundreds of important buildings – from 19th-century palaces to masterpieces of Stalinist architecture – were being neglected or demolished.

The problems have been blamed on a lack of legal consequences for developers who ruin listed buildings. Critics of the system say that opaque development plans mean the public is left in the dark until works are under way. And while the financial crisis has slowed down some of the more rapacious developers, the dried-up cash flow also means that there is less money to spend on quality renovation work.

"An all-round lowering of standards, the triumph of vandalism and the obstruction of every last vacant space on the skyline is the legacy that the last decade has bequeathed to Moscow," wrote Anna Bronovitskaya, an art historian. The report also blamed "a theme park approach to an historic city" and an overabundance of cars.

Even where attempts had been made to renovate historical buildings or build within the architectural context of the area, the results were often atrocious. The report spoke of "bloated sham replicas of historic buildings" dominating the skyline.

An earlier version of the report was published two years ago but the authors said that after a pause in the demolition of listed buildings and an increased willingness on the part of city authorities to listen to public concerns, former service was soon resumed.

"There has been no progress in the last two years, things have got worse and worse," said David Sarkisyan, the director of the Shchusev State Museum of Architecture in Moscow.

"This is probably a battle that we are not going to win, but it's one that is very important to fight."

The report listed eight buildings of historical value, including one thought to be the oldest surviving wooden building in the city, which have been demolished or irrevocably ruined in the past year. Dozens more are at risk due to neglect or poor renovations, including world-famous buildings.

Just across from the Kremlin, the once majestic facade of the Bolshoi Theatre is covered in tarpaulin, its insides gutted, and the whole crack-ridden structure apparently in danger of collapse. The theatre, which closed for much-needed reconstruction work in 2005, was due to re-open last year but the renovations are running years behind schedule and over cost. Last week, Alexander Vedernikov, the chief conductor and musical director of the Bolshoi, walked out on the theatre, citing disagreement with the management and disgust at the renovation effort.

Of particular concern are Constructivist buildings, seen internationally as some of the most important architecture that Russia has given the world. Many of them stand semi-derelict. Buildings such as Narkomfin, a pioneering experiment in communal living, have been slated for ambitious renovation plans for years, but work has been endlessly delayed and the building is cracked, peeling and in need of saving.

Many blame the post-Soviet architectural chaos on the reign of Yury Luzhkov, the city's powerful Mayor who has been in office since 1992. On Mr Luzhkov's watch, Moscow has been transformed from the drab centre of world communism to a thriving hub of ultra-capitalism.

But the rapid development of Moscow has not been unequivocally positive; it has come with haphazard building practices, low-quality constructions and the neglect or destruction of historical buildings. There are also allegations of corruption when it comes to tenders and contracts for construction. Mr Luzhkov's wife, Yelena Baturina, is Russia's only female billionaire and one of the country's largest construction magnates.

The crisis is not limited to the capital. Historians and activists say that Moscow's poor example has been aped across Russia. Of most concern is St Petersburg, the Tsarist capital whose elegant centre was spared the usual Soviet replanning and is free of monolithic concrete structures. Now that is changing.

"Right next to historical buildings there are horrible eyesores showing up that we are powerless to oppose," said an activist from the northern city, Elena Minchyonok. "If this carries on for another year or two, St Petersburg as we know it now it will cease to exist."

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St Petersburg and the preservation of architecture
[info]cblackwell34 wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 08:54 am (UTC)
I was in St. Petesrburg only 2 years ago and saw the most beautiful of cities - and mused then that if I were Putin I would give some of those wonderful houses along the canals to wealthy people to restore - and let them then sell the houses for a profit - the restoration being guised by those in charge of the preservation of national buildings.
There is more than one way to profit from buildings that need restoration that tear them down.
Constance Blackwell
London
Re: St Petersburg and the preservation of architecture
[info]rex123 wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 10:33 am (UTC)


cblachwell34 writes: "...if I were Putin I would give some of those wonderful houses along the canals to wealthy people to restore"---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Looks like if you were Putin you would be the most vicious dictator on the Earth - how can the head of state (or Government) just TAKE REAL ESTATE FROM OWNERS AHD GIVE IT TO SMBDY ELSE??? Can you imagine such in UK - Government throw away owners of appartments in the houses along the Thems and GIVING THOSE HOUSES to Russian oligarhs so that they renovate those and sell out?...Whatever authoritarian person Putin is - such is impossible in Russia...If you said "If I were Stalin, I would..." - then no questions to you. Thanks for appressiation of St.Petersburg, though...

As for the author of the artickle - look how happy he is to write again smth. bad about Russia!...The logics give reason to think that if some really beautifull buildings are demolished in Moscow - it means THERE ARE SOME BEAUTIFULL BUILDINGS THERE - but NEVER, NEVER, NEVER will Shaun Walker write about smth. beautiful in Moscow - he will always write that IT IS DEMOLISHED...What kind of attitude do such people expect from Russians? What kind of attitude would Brits reveal towards the person who always writes about UK in the same manner as Walker writes about Russia? - I think something like a disgust...
Re: St Petersburg and the preservation of architecture
[info]cblackwell34 wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 10:46 am (UTC)
The fact is most of the houses along the waterways are not privately owned - and are falling down completely. The city of St Petersburg does not have the funds to restore these houses.
Of course no private property should be confiscated but the person that responded does not seem to realise there is very little private property in Russia -
the question I was addressing is how to fund the restoration of 18th and early 19th homes.
Re: St Petersburg and the preservation of architecture
[info]rex123 wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 11:29 am (UTC)
Little private property in Russia? indiscriminate privatisation is one of the problems for which Russia is critisised - wild capitalism - oil industry in the hands of Oligarhs, mining, metall processing, chemistry, power plants no more in state posession, all airtrafic companies, all the ships ( passenger, tankers,rolkers etc.), all the agreeculture (all formar "kolhoz" and sovhos" - state farms are now in private property, all the food industry, not to say about shops etc, even the cities infrastructure is no more in municipal possesion - private companies are contractors just for every miserable repair in my city of St.Petersburg, 82% of residential real estate in Russia have been privatised since 1992 and is now in private property - what are you speaking about? I live in Russia since my birth...
Re: St Petersburg and the preservation of architecture
[info]ydef wrote:
Saturday, 25 July 2009 at 09:10 am (UTC)
rex123,

Why are you complaining about an author that is writing about a problem that is being voiced by citizens of your own country? You appear very touchy about 'foreigners' criticizing Russia, but by your apt description alone you provide plenty of criticism yourself. Is it okay for you to voice criticism of your country but inappropriate for foreign press to voice criticisms from your fellow citizens? Such is hypocrisy.
Re: St Petersburg and the preservation of architecture
[info]goodoldmonty wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 12:22 pm (UTC)
rex123 I am sorry that you think something like a disgust but surely the point of the article is that what remains of your architectural heritage is threatened due to the lawlessness and corruption that define Moscow's planning system. An article that merely describes how Moscow has beautiful buildings would be boring and not exactly constitute 'news'. And have you ever picked up a British newspaper? There is no harsher critic of the UK. Maybe your press could take a leaf out of their book...
Istanbul
[info]carmagan wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 09:21 am (UTC)
Istanbul is following on the footsteps of Moscow!
Activists for Stalin!
[info]ambricourt wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 12:34 pm (UTC)
Ambricourt

Who are these people cited in the opening paragraph as authorities - "a group of Russian and internatinal activists"? How do they act and who provides their funding?

But now they have found "masterpieces" of Stalinist architecture. Should we celebrate? All my adult life I have read nothing in the western press except sneering condemnation of all buildings erected in the communist decades, especially those Stalinist "monoliths"!

Perhaps these "international activists" now lamenting the demise of Soviet buildings will also discover virtues in the communist methods that Western power has condemned to the scrap-heap of history: a reliable educational system, a discernible degree of social mobility (greater than in the U.K. for the same period), and a basic welfare structure (although bribery was a sad concomitant).

Of course, articles such as this, are a continuation of the cold war. Whatever Russia does is dismissed with disdainful superiority by the Grand Masters of the American World-System and their journalist-hirelings. Always outside the periphery of Europe, Russia today is still being excluded from Western mainstream development. Reporting such as this is dedicated to perpetuating contempt for a country which, in capitalist and communist times, always admired Western values and struggled, with inadequate technology and inferior social administration, to reach Western standards of living.

Compassionate understanding, not contemptuous dismissal, of Russia and the Russian experience is required of our media - urgently.
Re: Activists for Stalin!
[info]pordus wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 04:16 pm (UTC)
Totally agree. It seems that there is no way that Russia can please Western journalists. One year you read about one really horrible thing in Russia, next year the same journal publishes an article about exactly the opposite thing and it is also horrible. Just because it is in Russia, it seems.

The most amazing thing is that the public eats all that BS without noticing a smell.

I have not decided yet if this indicated that the public is stupid (and gets what it wants to here)
or if it indicated that the public is deliberately brainwashed about Russia in order to maintain an image of the enemy (for justifying many political goals that UK/US pursues around Russia - the goal of expanding its sphere of political influence at Russia's expense, Ukraine and Georgia are excellent examples of that).
Re: Activists for Stalin!
[info]dove_wings wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 07:33 pm (UTC)
Ambricourt,
you seem to be quite ill-educated in the area of art, particularly architecture, and obviously, you are not German, otherwise you would have been familiar with the constructivism (or functionalism, how it is called in the West). This architectural style thrived in 1920-30-s in the USSR and Germany, but not only - for example, you can find such buildings in Helsinki, in the very heart of the city (Glass Palace and others). The buildings of that style are INTERNATIONALLY ACCLAIMED MASTERPIECES. I recommend you to broaden up your horizons, starting with Wikipedia. In 2008 there was a very interesting large exhibition in St.Petersburg, in Peter and Paul Fortress, devoted to Soviet and German constructivist architecture.
"Who are these people cited in the opening paragraph as authorities - "a group of Russian and international activists"?" - I can answer you about "a group of Russian activists" from St.Petersburg. They are from the movement "Living City", who tries to protect cultural heritage of St.Petersburg from the ugly redevelopment and demolition. Visit their website www.save-spb.ru - it has a small English section.
I am a middle-aged native Russian, born in Leningrad (St.Petersburg) and living here all my life, as well as my parents, and the ancestors from my matrilineal descent. Alas, EVERY WORD IN SHAUN WALKER'S ARTICLE IS THE HONEST TRUTH, and my heart is simply bleeding. We lost Moscow, and now we are losing St.Petersburg because of the greedy and dirty hands of the low-cultured developers and corrupted officials who act under the auspice of the total lawlessness and impunity. By the way, the majority of them are former communists, and our governor Valentina Matvienko as well - she was high-ranked Komsomol (young Communist) official 30 years ago. For them, public opinion means nothing, they continue to pursue their own interests. For the past five years, when Mrs.Matvienko has been in charge of the city, more than 100 historical buildings were destroyed in the centre of St.Petersburg!
I remember, there were the articles concerning the fate of St.Petersburg historical buildings in The Independent a year or two ago. May be Shaun Walker was the author. I wish to dearly ask him not to give up this topic and bring to light and inform the Western audience what happens with the "architectural preservation" in St.Petersburg and Moscow.
I am surprised that rex123 doesn't see it, we are walking down the same streets and looking at the same buildings in the same city.
Thank you very much again, Mr.Shaun Walker!
Re: Activists for Stalin!
[info]rex123 wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 11:18 pm (UTC)
What I see around here in St.Petersburg is that the city is a slum, dirty and untidy - all those phrases about its beauty is bs. - go to Helsinki and look how REAL european city should look like. All those selfframed balconies in new buildings is the highest point of our national stupidity - it is clear that in our climate people will put selfmade windows to make some aditional room out of a balcony - the result- in a month after new beautiful house is build -it start to look like a slum in the worst region of Kalkuta - evry balcony glassed (or how it is in English) different colour, different type of windows, often SELFMADE!!!!!! It is clear that to fine or prosecute our people for that- means to make enemies out of 50% of population (taking into account how many balconies are mutilated by owners) - no government would risk - I understand - but WHY NOT TO PROHIBIT CONSTRUCTION OF THOSE HIGHRISERS WITHOUT UNIFIED GLASS WALLS OF THE BALCONIES (YOU'LL GET BOTH WORLDS - A BALCONY AND OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE IT LIKE A LITTLE ROOM WITH GLASS WALL IF YOU WANT - some houses are constructed like that, but still a lot of others continue their stupid balconies in our climate. I wrote to city council - no result - "thnk you thank you for your opinion" - even presented me subscription for "Nevskoye Vremya" free of charge - instead of responding adecvatelly, what for do I need this "Nevskoye Vremya"? - I want to clean my city of garbage and of those selfmade windows on the balconies...And your organisation as if doesn't see it - you only take high-end and famous projects to critisise so that to attract public attention - not new position...You want to preserve smt. like Indian ruins - delapidated Temple and garbage around - I hate this type of preservation - I want to live in clean city first of all - dirty masterpiece in dusty streets and stinking around feasepits and smelly old ruins - I don't need that...And I don't believe you are Russian - your English is suspiciously good - you probably is one of those sponsors looking for antiques for your dessertation or smth. like that.
Re: Activists for Stalin!
[info]dove_wings wrote:
Friday, 24 July 2009 at 11:54 am (UTC)
I think the problem of self-made window and balcony glazing as well as the excess of litter on the streets of our city and outside it lies withinin the failed legislation only partially, but mainly - in our minds, in the LOW LEVEL OF EVERYDAY CULTURE of both our grassroots and officials. In-fill construction, poaching of Red data book animals, illegal forest cutting, demolition of historical buildings, in my opininon, are stemming from that source and are the links of one chain. As for my "suspiciously good English" - I wish to lay down some cards on the table, but, firstly, to thank you for your high appreciation of my command of English that misled you. Believe me, I am Russian (female), who started to learn this language at a relatively "old" age of 17 in the time of Iron Curtain in Leningrad with a private teacher, than at the State Courses of Foreign Languages N4 in Moskovsky District of our city (are you stll thinking that I am a foreigner?). English is my second foreign language, first is German, but I am neither philologist nor an antique dealer (though I have to confess that I like it!) - I am biologist by my education and current profession. I have never worked or had any felloships abroad, my rare trips there didn't exceed 2-3 weeks. Neither I am a sponsor or representative of any organisation or political party. I try to practise English every day, and at least always check the spelling before post something on the net!
The collapse of Moscow: Architectural heritage being destroyed
[info]connaughtranger wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 03:27 pm (UTC)
"There is no other capital city in peacetime Europe that is being subjected to such devastation for the sake of earning a fast megabuck," the Moscow Architecture Preservation Society stated in its report."

Obviously they have not visited Bucharest in Romania.
Re: The collapse of Moscow: Architectural heritage being destroyed
[info]fin_d_empire wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 08:57 pm (UTC)
Obviously they have not visited Bucharest in Romania.

or London
Big, grey and no place in today's post-communist regime
[info]sparkozy wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 07:12 pm (UTC)
Pre-communist architecture aside, it can't be so bad to renovate, pull down some of those oppressive-looking grey monoliths. I would imagine the Russian people would be quite happy to see some of those ghostly reminders of darker days smashed to smithersreens.

Look at that photo of the underground station, for starters. Sweet Lenin of Nazareth, how depressingly old-fashioned does that look? OK, I agree it looks more stylish than the older London Tube, which itself could not possibly have looked such a s**thole in it's original design, could it? But it looks so communist. Rip it out and clad the walls in chrome, or something.

Re: Big, grey and no place in today's post-communist regime
[info]pordus wrote:
Thursday, 23 July 2009 at 10:43 pm (UTC)
Your opinion is quite subjective. I am a former Moscovite and I like Mayakovskaya station above - BTW, it is named after a famous poet (not MAKAKOVSKAYA that sounds like Monkey's in Russian - says a lot about the quality of this publication). Probably this is my most favorite station after Novoslobodskaya

http://beeflowers.com/Metro/Novoslobodskaya/mainpage.htm

I do not remember seeing a single station in London's tube that comes anywhere near the average quality of Moscow's subway stations (particularly those in downtown). Sorry, Londoners. I admit, my opinion is also subjective.
The collapse of Moscow: Architectural heritage being destroyed MIND YOUR LINGO
[info]famulla wrote:
Friday, 24 July 2009 at 02:25 am (UTC)
Shaun Walker in Moscow The London Bridge falling , 9/11 does not mean the CITY . New York or Tony or Bush are dead.They alive and kicking mad all the dogs and nudes out to get the frustration out and in
I thank you
Firozali A. Mulla
iq test
[info]iq47 wrote:
Monday, 27 July 2009 at 04:07 pm (UTC)

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