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And now, almost unmentioned in the media, their holy places are also being desecrated

Frontline: DIYARBAKIR, TURKEY: Proud city of the Kurds is now in ruins

YILDIZ CELIK watched as two Turkish helicopter gunships passed low overhead, the fight against the Kurdish rebels that has made her a refugee in her own country in its last throes. But for Ms Celik and the people of Diyarbakir, the suffering is not over yet.

Football: Zidane refreshes France

FRANCE CAME from behind to secure a precious 3-2 victory against Armenia in Yerevan last night to give themselves a chance of qualifying for next summer's European Championship.

Arts: Armenian rhapsody

Despite censorship and imprisonment, in four films Sergei Paradjanov transformed both world cinema and his country's culture.

NEWS IN BRIEF

DANDO MURDER LINK RAPIsT hunted

Comment: Why we are not wrong to compare Milosevic to Hitler

It was public pressure that prevented Chamberlain backing down in the face of Hitler's aggression

COMPETITION: LITERALLY LOST 73

This excerpt has been taken from a work of travel literature. Readers are invited to tell us: a) where the action is taking place b) who the author is. Blackwell's Bookshops will award pounds 30-worth of tokens to the first correct answer out of the hat. Answers on a pc to: Literally Lost, Independent on Sunday, 1 Canada Square, London E14 5DL. Usual rules apply. Entries to arrive by Thursday. Literally lost 72: The book was `The Crossing Place - A Journey among the Armenians' by Philip Marsden. The action took place in Armenia. The winner is K Sands, London.

Football: France guard against Russia

ROGER LEMERRE, the France coach, was a a happy man after his side's 2-0 win over Armenia, not least because the game was ideal preparation for the next European Championship qualifier at home to Russia, as both opponents have a similar style.

There's no guide book and the waiters think I want three breakfasts - now that's what I call travelling

re you as cantankerous as I am at the idea that the entire world has been sewn-up and packaged by guide-books? That publishing houses like Lonely Planet have so thoroughly penetrated the globe that concepts such as "remote" no longer apply? That any discovery you make of the slightest touristic interest, in any beaten-up town in the middle of nowhere, is a sure sign that a guide-book writer will already have cased the joint years ago and that a German tourist in sandals will be standing next to you reading the same book?

Parliament: The House - Today's Agenda

Commons, 9.30am for backbench debates: The Greening Government initiative; maritime and coastguard agency; health and safety at Northern Ireland soccer grounds; economic decline in suburban areas; regulation of water charges.

Travel: When mash is the food of love, eat up

When Husain Husaini met his wife-to-be in India, she was suffering from a craving for mashed potato - and he from an incurable passion

Colombia: From tragedy to chaos

THERE ARE three things you could not easily forget about 50-year- old Colombian shoe salesman Saul Hernandez. First is the way he unsheathes his 30in machete to show how he would deal with looters. Second is the fact that his home is a mattress from which he can touch all the sheets of black plastic that serve as his walls and roof. Third is that he puts four paper cups outside in the rain to gather water to drink.

After the earthquake, a post-apocalypse world straight out of Dickens or Kafka

THE SCENE was how you might imagine a post- apocalypse world to look: part-Dickens, part-Kafka, pitch black with only flickering campfires to light hollow faces that didn't bother to look up at passing strangers.

`Up to 2,000' die as quake flattens Andean cities

MOST RESIDENTS of western Colombia's lush coffee-growing and illegal cocaine-producing belt were in the middle of lunch when the earth began to tremble and bend.
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Independent Travel
Panama
Languedoc Roussillon
Marrakesh & the Atlas Mountains
Bruges
The Jura Mountains
Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
Prices correct as of 17 September 2014
Scottish referendum: The Yes vote was the love that dared speak its name, but it was not to be

Despite the result, this is the end of the status quo

Boyd Tonkin on the fall-out from the Scottish referendum
Manolo Blahnik: The high priest of heels talks flats, Englishness, and why he loves Mary Beard

Manolo Blahnik: Flats, Englishness, and Mary Beard

The shoe designer who has been dubbed 'the patron saint of the stiletto'
The Beatles biographer reveals exclusive original manuscripts of some of the best pop songs ever written

Scrambled eggs and LSD

Behind The Beatles' lyrics - thanks to Hunter Davis's original manuscript copies
'Normcore' fashion: Blending in is the new standing out in latest catwalk non-trend

'Normcore': Blending in is the new standing out

Just when fashion was in grave danger of running out of trends, it only went and invented the non-trend. Rebecca Gonsalves investigates
Dance’s new leading ladies fight back: How female vocalists are now writing their own hits

New leading ladies of dance fight back

How female vocalists are now writing their own hits
Mystery of the Ground Zero wedding photo

A shot in the dark

Mystery of the wedding photo from Ground Zero
His life, the universe and everything

His life, the universe and everything

New biography sheds light on comic genius of Douglas Adams
Save us from small screen superheroes

Save us from small screen superheroes

Shows like Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D are little more than marketing tools
Reach for the skies

Reach for the skies

From pools to football pitches, rooftop living is looking up
These are the 12 best hotel spas in the UK

12 best hotel spas in the UK

Some hotels go all out on facilities; others stand out for the sheer quality of treatments
These Iranian-controlled Shia militias used to specialise in killing American soldiers. Now they are fighting Isis, backed up by US airstrikes

Widespread fear of Isis is producing strange bedfellows

Iranian-controlled Shia militias that used to kill American soldiers are now fighting Isis, helped by US airstrikes
Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

Shoppers don't come to Topshop for the unique
How to make a Lego masterpiece

How to make a Lego masterpiece

Toy breaks out of the nursery and heads for the gallery
Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

Urbanites are cursed with an acronym pointing to Employed but No Disposable Income or Savings
Paisley’s decision to make peace with IRA enemies might remind the Arabs of Sadat

Ian Paisley’s decision to make peace with his IRA enemies

His Save Ulster from Sodomy campaign would surely have been supported by many a Sunni imam