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And now, almost unmentioned in the media, their holy places are also being desecrated

Frontline: DIYARBAKIR, TURKEY: Proud city of the Kurds is now in ruins

YILDIZ CELIK watched as two Turkish helicopter gunships passed low overhead, the fight against the Kurdish rebels that has made her a refugee in her own country in its last throes. But for Ms Celik and the people of Diyarbakir, the suffering is not over yet.

Football: Zidane refreshes France

FRANCE CAME from behind to secure a precious 3-2 victory against Armenia in Yerevan last night to give themselves a chance of qualifying for next summer's European Championship.

Arts: Armenian rhapsody

Despite censorship and imprisonment, in four films Sergei Paradjanov transformed both world cinema and his country's culture.

NEWS IN BRIEF

DANDO MURDER LINK RAPIsT hunted

Comment: Why we are not wrong to compare Milosevic to Hitler

It was public pressure that prevented Chamberlain backing down in the face of Hitler's aggression

COMPETITION: LITERALLY LOST 73

This excerpt has been taken from a work of travel literature. Readers are invited to tell us: a) where the action is taking place b) who the author is. Blackwell's Bookshops will award pounds 30-worth of tokens to the first correct answer out of the hat. Answers on a pc to: Literally Lost, Independent on Sunday, 1 Canada Square, London E14 5DL. Usual rules apply. Entries to arrive by Thursday. Literally lost 72: The book was `The Crossing Place - A Journey among the Armenians' by Philip Marsden. The action took place in Armenia. The winner is K Sands, London.

Football: France guard against Russia

ROGER LEMERRE, the France coach, was a a happy man after his side's 2-0 win over Armenia, not least because the game was ideal preparation for the next European Championship qualifier at home to Russia, as both opponents have a similar style.

There's no guide book and the waiters think I want three breakfasts - now that's what I call travelling

re you as cantankerous as I am at the idea that the entire world has been sewn-up and packaged by guide-books? That publishing houses like Lonely Planet have so thoroughly penetrated the globe that concepts such as "remote" no longer apply? That any discovery you make of the slightest touristic interest, in any beaten-up town in the middle of nowhere, is a sure sign that a guide-book writer will already have cased the joint years ago and that a German tourist in sandals will be standing next to you reading the same book?

Parliament: The House - Today's Agenda

Commons, 9.30am for backbench debates: The Greening Government initiative; maritime and coastguard agency; health and safety at Northern Ireland soccer grounds; economic decline in suburban areas; regulation of water charges.

Travel: When mash is the food of love, eat up

When Husain Husaini met his wife-to-be in India, she was suffering from a craving for mashed potato - and he from an incurable passion

Colombia: From tragedy to chaos

THERE ARE three things you could not easily forget about 50-year- old Colombian shoe salesman Saul Hernandez. First is the way he unsheathes his 30in machete to show how he would deal with looters. Second is the fact that his home is a mattress from which he can touch all the sheets of black plastic that serve as his walls and roof. Third is that he puts four paper cups outside in the rain to gather water to drink.

After the earthquake, a post-apocalypse world straight out of Dickens or Kafka

THE SCENE was how you might imagine a post- apocalypse world to look: part-Dickens, part-Kafka, pitch black with only flickering campfires to light hollow faces that didn't bother to look up at passing strangers.

`Up to 2,000' die as quake flattens Andean cities

MOST RESIDENTS of western Colombia's lush coffee-growing and illegal cocaine-producing belt were in the middle of lunch when the earth began to tremble and bend.
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More than 90 years of car history are coming to an end with the abolition of the paper car-tax disc
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The new Windows 10 Start Menu
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Arts and Entertainment
There has been a boom in ticket sales for female comics, according to an industry survey
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Bruce Chatwin's novel 'On the Black Hill' was set at The Vision Farm
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Gay and OK: a scene from 'Pride'
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Hilary North's 'How My Life Has Changed', 2001
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Independent Travel
Apulia
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Prices correct as of 26 September 2014
Ebola outbreak: The children orphaned by the virus – then rejected by surviving relatives over fear of infection

The children orphaned by Ebola...

... then rejected by surviving relatives over fear of infection
Pride: Are censors pandering to homophobia?

Are censors pandering to homophobia?

US film censors have ruled 'Pride' unfit for under-16s, though it contains no sex or violence
The magic of roundabouts

Lords of the rings

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Notes to self: Why do we like making lists?

Well it was good enough for Ancient Egyptians and Picasso...
Hong Kong protests: A good time to open a new restaurant?

A good time to open a new restaurant in Hong Kong?

As pro-democracy demonstrators hold firm, chef Rowley Leigh, who's in the city to open a new restaurant, says you couldn't hope to meet a nicer bunch
Paris Fashion Week: Karl Lagerfeld leads a feminist riot on 'Boulevard Chanel'

Paris Fashion Week

Lagerfeld leads a feminist riot on 'Boulevard Chanel'
Bruce Chatwin's Wales: One of the finest one-day walks in Britain

Simon Calder discovers Bruce Chatwin's Wales

One of the finest one-day walks you could hope for - in Britain
10 best children's nightwear

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Make sure the kids stay cosy on cooler autumn nights in this selection of pjs, onesies and nighties
Manchester City vs Roma: Five things we learnt from City’s draw at the Etihad

Manchester City vs Roma

Five things we learnt from City’s Champions League draw at the Etihad
Martin Hardy: Mike Ashley must act now and end the Alan Pardew reign

Trouble on the Tyne

Ashley must act now and end Pardew's reign at Newcastle, says Martin Hardy
Isis is an hour from Baghdad, the Iraq army has little chance against it, and air strikes won't help

Isis an hour away from Baghdad -

and with no sign of Iraq army being able to make a successful counter-attack
Turner Prize 2014 is frustratingly timid

Turner Prize 2014 is frustratingly timid

The exhibition nods to rich and potentially brilliant ideas, but steps back
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Last chance to see...

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Truth behind teens' grumpiness

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Hacked photos: the third wave

Why can no one stop hackers putting celebrities' private photos online?