At around 5.50pm most evenings, the natural soundscape of the forest around Sri Lanka's Lake Koggala – the chirps of cicadas and squawks of koel birds – is broken by the low thrum of a propeller engine. From the terrace of Tri, cocktail in hand, we have the perfect spot to watch the twice-daily seaplane make its descent and land on the bottle-green water's surface as it arrives from Colombo. A boat is quickly despatched to deliver any Tri residents to its private jetty.
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