BOOK REVIEW / Paperbacks: The Raj at Table - David Burton: Faber, pounds 6.99

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The Independent Culture
'The whiff of spice lured Britain to India.' With these words Burton begins a fascinating tour through the world of kedgeree, tiffin, chutney and mulligatawny. There were, of course, many different types of stomach in the Raj: missionary, military, mercantile. And although there was, even to the end, massive resistance to native food - and a determined adherence to British nursery fare wherever possible - the curry established itself as an irresistible fact of life 'out there', as it now is back here. This is a delightful piece of social history as well as a well-stocked recipe book.

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