Fashion: Inside the head of John Galliano

NEWS THAT our own Lady Harlech was scouring the streets of Paris for bits of broken crockery was received throughout the fashion world with cries of joy. Though at first it was rumoured that she had been retained to repair the early canvases of Julian Schnabel, aficionados instantly recognised the signs. The presence of Lady H, his invaluable muse, could only herald The Return of John Galliano.

Was it almost a decade since the giggling boy of St Martin's School of Art launched his wild costumery on an unsuspecting British fashion public obsessed with Japanese tailoring? Could it be eight years since milady, then a mere slip of a girl not long up from Oxford, made her first foray on behalf of our young genius into the cellars of Hammer House, coming away with stocks of old cobwebs, death-blue lipstick and hair matting fixe?

During a career in which creative success has been dogged by the economic problems that come from having a ditzy head for figures, Galliano's collections have been famous for historical licence, magical cutting, and the inspiration they provide to more established, designers: viz 'Mmmm. I mean, take that last Chanel collection - it was pure Galliano,' a member of the French fashion elite confided last week.

After a choppy year in which he lost Peder Bertelsen as a backer last November and found Faycal Amor, a French Moroccan with a pounds 10m fashion company, Galliano has returned to the catwalk with enough ideas to keep the Chambre Syndicale going for years and a collection so complicated it would confound the wardrobe mistress of La Scala.

'Well,' he begins in that gentle voice, given to sudden squeals of hysteria, 'there are lots of 17th-century influences. First we have Marauders - no, not pirates, kind of strong independent women, sort of filibustiers - no, not bustiers - kind of, after the ship's sunk and all the treasure chests are pulled open and the jewels and pearls and velvets are raided by the women, who stick them on under their pirate jackets. Then there's a sort of (consumptive) Death in Venice look with beautiful fabrics, then Shanghai Lil' - a kind of chinoiserie thing with bias-cut dresses appliqued with gold leaf dragons and featuring 'winking' seams. (These are a Galliano invention which, on first examination, look more like gaping seams, but the effect is intentional and, in this case, the little gaps in the seams are backed by red lining

so the dragons' eyes wink as you walk.)

' Then there's the 'Rocker-Sari' look - that's because I saw this skinhead kissing this Indian woman in the street, so it's saris in really rich shades . . . All the fabric in this new collection is very positive. None of it's distressed.'

To the uninitiated, all this might sound competely barmy - and he hasn't even started on the tea stains and the rusty- nail aesthetic. But you better believe it: to the fashion crowd, sated with the luxe, calme et volupte of the grand designers, the spirit of Galliano on the streets of Paris heralds a new creative dawn. The last thing we heard was that the French were unable to supply Fuller's Earth in sufficient quantities, so Lady Harlech ordered some sacks to be flown in from

London - '. . . wonderful beaten into the hats,' she explained.

(Photograph omitted)

Arts and Entertainment
Performers drink tea at the Glastonbury festival in 2010

GlastonburyWI to make debut appearance at Somerset festival

Arts and Entertainment
Lena Headey as Cersei Lannister

TV reviewIt has taken seven episodes for Game of Thrones season five to hit its stride

Arts and Entertainment
Jesuthasan Antonythasan as Dheepan

FilmPalme d'Or goes to radical and astonishing film that turns conventional thinking about immigrants on its head

Arts and Entertainment
Måns Zelmerlöw performing

Eurovision
Arts and Entertainment
Graham Norton was back in the commentating seat for Eurovision 2015

Eurovision
Arts and Entertainment
The light stuff: Britt Robertson and George Clooney in ‘Tomorrowland: a World Beyond’
film review
Arts and Entertainment
Reawakening: can Jon Hamm’s Don Draper find enlightenment in the final ‘Mad Men’?
tv reviewNot quite, but it's an enlightening finale for Don Draper spoiler alert
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Arts and Entertainment

ebooksNow available in paperback
Arts and Entertainment

ebooks
Arts and Entertainment
Breakfast Show’s Nick Grimshaw

Radio
Arts and Entertainment

Eurovision
Arts and Entertainment
'Youth' cast members Paul Dano, Jane Fonda, Harvey Keitel, Rachel Weisz, and Michael Caine pose for photographers at Cannes Film Festival
film
Arts and Entertainment
Adam West as Batman and Burt Ward and Robin in the 1960s Batman TV show

Comics
Arts and Entertainment
I am flute: Azeem Ward and his now-famous instrument
music
Arts and Entertainment
A glass act: Dr Chris van Tulleken (left) and twin Xand get set for their drinking challenge
TV review
Arts and Entertainment
MIA perform at Lovebox 2014 in London Fields, Hackney

music
Arts and Entertainment
Finnish punk band PKN hope to enter Eurovision 2015 and raise awareness for Down's Syndrome

eurovision
Arts and Entertainment
William Shakespeare on the cover of John Gerard's The Herball or Generall Historie of Plantes

books
Arts and Entertainment

Game of Thrones review
Arts and Entertainment
Grayson Perry dedicates his Essex home to Julie

Potter's attempt to create an Essex Taj Mahal was a lovely treat

tv
Arts and Entertainment
A scene from the original Swedish version of the sci-fi TV drama ‘Real Humans’
tv
Arts and Entertainment
Hugh Keays-Byrne plays Immortan Joe, the terrifying gang leader, in the new film
filmActor who played Toecutter returns - but as a different villain in reboot
Arts and Entertainment
Charlize Theron as Imperator Furiosa in Mad Max: Fury Road
film
Arts and Entertainment
Jessica Hynes in W1A
tvReview: Perhaps the creators of W1A should lay off the copy and paste function spoiler alert
Arts and Entertainment
Power play: Mitsuko Uchida in concert

classical
Arts and Entertainment
Dangerous liaisons: Dominic West, Jake Richard Siciliano, Maura Tierney and Leya Catlett in ‘The Affair’ – a contradictory drama but one which is sure to reel the viewers in
TV review
Arts and Entertainment
Richard Herring, pictured performing at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival two years ago
comedy
Arts and Entertainment
Music freak: Max Runham in the funfair band
theatre
Arts and Entertainment
film 'I felt under-used by Hollywood'
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    Abuse - and the hell that came afterwards

    Abuse - and the hell that follows

    James Rhodes on the extraordinary legal battle to publish his memoir
    Why we need a 'tranquility map' of England, according to campaigners

    It's oh so quiet!

    The case for a 'tranquility map' of England
    'Timeless fashion': It may be a paradox, but the industry loves it

    'Timeless fashion'

    It may be a paradox, but the industry loves it
    If the West needs a bridge to the 'moderates' inside Isis, maybe we could have done with Osama bin Laden staying alive after all

    Could have done with Osama bin Laden staying alive?

    Robert Fisk on the Fountainheads of World Evil in 2011 - and 2015
    New exhibition celebrates the evolution of swimwear

    Evolution of swimwear

    From bathing dresses in the twenties to modern bikinis
    Sun, sex and an anthropological study: One British academic's summer of hell in Magaluf

    Sun, sex and an anthropological study

    One academic’s summer of hell in Magaluf
    From Shakespeare to Rising Damp... to Vicious

    Frances de la Tour's 50-year triumph

    'Rising Damp' brought De la Tour such recognition that she could be forgiven if she'd never been able to move on. But at 70, she continues to flourish - and to beguile
    'That Whitsun, I was late getting away...'

    Ian McMillan on the Whitsun Weddings

    This weekend is Whitsun, and while the festival may no longer resonate, Larkin's best-loved poem, lives on - along with the train journey at the heart of it
    Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath in a new light

    Songs from the bell jar

    Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath
    How one man's day in high heels showed him that Cannes must change its 'no flats' policy

    One man's day in high heels

    ...showed him that Cannes must change its 'flats' policy
    Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

    Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

    Dominic Rossi of Fidelity says his pressure on business to control rewards is working. But why aren’t other fund managers helping?
    The King David Hotel gives precious work to Palestinians - unless peace talks are on

    King David Hotel: Palestinians not included

    The King David is special to Jerusalem. Nick Kochan checked in and discovered it has some special arrangements, too
    More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years

    End of the Aussie brain drain

    More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years
    Meditation is touted as a cure for mental instability but can it actually be bad for you?

    Can meditation be bad for you?

    Researching a mass murder, Dr Miguel Farias discovered that, far from bringing inner peace, meditation can leave devotees in pieces
    Eurovision 2015: Australians will be cheering on their first-ever entrant this Saturday

    Australia's first-ever Eurovision entrant

    Australia, a nation of kitsch-worshippers, has always loved the Eurovision Song Contest. Maggie Alderson says it'll fit in fine