Restaurants; Streatham's King of the Hill

Vivienne Heller finds Elvis is alive and well and singing on a shabby stage in south London

For a fairytale evening, La Pergola, in south London, is a gift: not your flimsy saccharine story, but a gritty, unforgettable example of good triumphing against the odds.

The story begins in a litter-strewn street in Streatham, where a pink neon sign blinked promise of a kitsch Italian retro night. Preconceptions were dashed at the door, however. Inside, faux-jolly waiters patrolled the twilit room like malevolent henchmen, doling out warm beer and spritzers to subdued hen parties and other ill-assorted guests.

The menu was three courses for pounds 15.50, a rollcall of Eighties familiars that only lacked Black Forest gateau. My avocado prawns were passable, my coq au vin an ode to washed-out school dinners: a scrawny fowl in a watery sauce with sad assorted veg. Vince's veal escalope was "like something you'd peel off your foot", while Lizzie's spaghetti carbonara was pushed to one side after a few "bland" mouthfuls. On the plus side, the waiters were quick to clear our plates - even before we'd all finished, as if astounded that anyone would seriously consider touching the stuff.

As I prepared to bolt, Louise, who had been before, lassoed me with an assurance of great things to come, while Michael ordered another brace of bottles to numb my senses. We were never offered dessert, which was something of a relief: "Perhaps the waiters realised we had some modicum of taste and didn't want to insult us by bringing pudding," suggested Vince.

The substandard pouilly fume began to work some sort of magic. The sight of Kookai'd kids twitching limbs on the dancefloor beneath the waiters' leery gaze was mesmerising, as was singer Sylvia's thinly veiled contempt for her misfit audience.

Just when we thought the spectacle had reached its nadir of awfulness, a waiter detached himself from his rat pack and began flicking a light switch. Each feeble strobe revealed a little more of the next act: a shabby pull-out stage, some dire portraits...

And it was this tawdry charade that ushered in one of the greatest live performers I've ever seen.

Elvis, a vision in white, sprang on to the stage. And we were electrified - singing, waving, dancing, screaming to every quiver of his quiff and curl of his lip. Vince, from a long line of Elvis worshippers, was convinced: "It's like having God in the room." And as I looked into the King's eyes and screeched "Wooden Heart" into his microphone, I did, indeed, have a spiritual experience.

From his shaky leg to his shiny fringed suit, Kim Bridges looked like Elvis, and he sounded like him too, with a great, resonant voice. And there was something terribly innocent about such unwavering dedication to art in this den of cheap food and seedy service.

So, would we come again? Vince, dazed, nodded: "It's like the second coming at the end of the millennium is happening in Streatham."

La Pergola, 66 Streatham High Rd, London SW16 (0181-769 2646)


Graceland's Palace Old Kent Rd, SE1 (0171-639 3961) Paul "Elvis" Chang gives a twist to your Chinese meal; great for parties

Novello's 47 Parson's Green Lane, SW6 (0171-736 2713) Old-hand Lou Jordan plays this Thai bar & restaurant

Jailhouse Rock Cafe 44 High St, Hornchurch, Essex (01708 444408) A range of Elvises to rock your Tex-Mex

Arts and Entertainment
Stewart Lee (Gavin Evans)


Arts and Entertainment
No half measures: ‘The Secret Life of the Pub’

Grace Dent on TV The Secret Life of the Pub is sexist, ageist and a breath of fresh air

Arts and Entertainment
Art on their sleeves: before downloads and streaming, enthusiasts used to flick through racks of albums in their local record shops
musicFor Lois Pryce, working in a record shop was a dream job - until the bean counters ruined it
Arts and Entertainment
Serial suspect: the property heir charged with first-degree murder, Robert Durst
TV review
Arts and Entertainment
Igarashi in her

Art Megumi Igarashi criticises Japan's 'backwards' attitude to women's sexual expression

Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Arts and Entertainment

ebooksNow available in paperback
Arts and Entertainment

Arts and Entertainment
It's all in the genes: John Simm working in tandem with David Threlfall in 'Code of a Killer'

TV review
Arts and Entertainment
Far Right and Proud: Reggies Yates' Extreme Russia

TV review
Arts and Entertainment
Kanye West was mobbed in Armenia after jumping into a lake

Arts and Entertainment
The show suffers from its own appeal, being so good as to create an appetite in its viewers that is difficult to sate in a ten episode series

Game of Thrones reviewFirst look at season five contains some spoilers
Arts and Entertainment
Judi Dench and Kevin Spacey on the Red Carpet for 2015's Olivier Awards

Ray Davies' Sunny Afternoon scoops the most awards

Arts and Entertainment
Proving his metal: Ross Poldark (played by Aidan Turner in the BBC series) epitomises the risk-taking spirit of 18th-century mine owners

Poldark review
Arts and Entertainment
Eddie Redmayne is reportedly favourite to play Newt Scamander in Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them

Arts and Entertainment
Tom Hardy stars in dystopian action thriller Mad Max: Fury Road

Arts and Entertainment
Josh, 22, made his first million from the game MinoMonsters

Grace Dent

Channel 4 show proves there's no app for happiness
Disgraced Top Gear presenter Jeremy Clarkson
Arts and Entertainment
Game face: Zoë Kravitz, Bruce Greenwood and Ethan Hawke in ‘Good Kill’

film review

Arts and Entertainment
Living like there’s no tomorrow: Jon Hamm as Don Draper in the final season of ‘Mad Men’

TV review

Arts and Entertainment
Yaphett Kotto with Julius W Harris and Jane Seymour in 1973 Bond movie Live and Let Die

Arts and Entertainment

Arts and Entertainment

  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    NHS struggling to monitor the safety and efficacy of its services outsourced to private providers

    Who's monitoring the outsourced NHS services?

    A report finds that private firms are not being properly assessed for their quality of care
    Zac Goldsmith: 'I'll trigger a by-election over Heathrow'

    Zac Goldsmith: 'I'll trigger a by-election over Heathrow'

    The Tory MP said he did not want to stand again unless his party's manifesto ruled out a third runway. But he's doing so. Watch this space
    How do Greek voters feel about Syriza's backtracking on its anti-austerity pledge?

    How do Greeks feel about Syriza?

    Five voters from different backgrounds tell us what they expect from Syriza's charismatic leader Alexis Tsipras
    From Iraq to Libya and Syria: The wars that come back to haunt us

    The wars that come back to haunt us

    David Cameron should not escape blame for his role in conflicts that are still raging, argues Patrick Cockburn
    Sam Baker and Lauren Laverne: Too busy to surf? Head to The Pool

    Too busy to surf? Head to The Pool

    A new website is trying to declutter the internet to help busy women. Holly Williams meets the founders
    Heston Blumenthal to cook up a spice odyssey for British astronaut manning the International Space Station

    UK's Major Tum to blast off on a spice odyssey

    Nothing but the best for British astronaut as chef Heston Blumenthal cooks up his rations
    John Harrison's 'longitude' clock sets new record - 300 years on

    ‘Longitude’ clock sets new record - 300 years on

    Greenwich horologists celebrate as it keeps to within a second of real time over a 100-day test
    Fears in the US of being outgunned in the vital propaganda wars by Russia, China - and even Isis - have prompted a rethink on overseas broadcasters

    Let the propaganda wars begin - again

    'Accurate, objective, comprehensive': that was Voice of America's creed, but now its masters want it to promote US policy, reports Rupert Cornwell
    Why Japan's incredible long-distance runners will never win the London Marathon

    Japan's incredible long-distance runners

    Every year, Japanese long-distance runners post some of the world's fastest times – yet, come next weekend, not a single elite competitor from the country will be at the London Marathon
    Why does Tom Drury remain the greatest writer you've never heard of?

    Tom Drury: The quiet American

    His debut was considered one of the finest novels of the past 50 years, and he is every bit the equal of his contemporaries, Jonathan Franzen, Dave Eggers and David Foster Wallace
    You should judge a person by how they peel a potato

    You should judge a person by how they peel a potato

    Dave Hax's domestic tips are reminiscent of George Orwell's tea routine. The world might need revolution, but we like to sweat the small stuff, says DJ Taylor
    Beige is back: The drab car colours of the 1970s are proving popular again

    Beige to the future

    Flares and flounce are back on catwalks but a revival in ’70s car paintjobs was a stack-heeled step too far – until now
    Bill Granger recipes: Our chef's dishes highlight the delicate essence of fresh cheeses

    Bill Granger cooks with fresh cheeses

    More delicate on the palate, milder, fresh cheeses can also be kinder to the waistline
    Aston Villa vs Liverpool: 'This FA Cup run has been wonderful,' says veteran Shay Given

    Shay Given: 'This FA Cup run has been wonderful'

    The Villa keeper has been overlooked for a long time and has unhappy memories of the national stadium – but he is savouring his chance to play at Wembley
    Timeless drama of Championship race in league of its own - Michael Calvin

    Michael Calvin's Last Word

    Timeless drama of Championship race in league of its own