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The Independent Culture
Lok Ho Fook, W1

The dead hours between lunch and the sun passing over the yard-arm are hell for the social life if you don't give a damn about either art or cake. There's either shopping or lying on a chaise longue talking on the telephone. Or, of course, you could eat dim sum. These slippery delicacies are available in plenty of places in Chinatown, but Lok Ho Fook, a slightly characterless white restaurant, does an excellent range, from the business bits of animals to those wonderful sticky rices, prawn dumplings and yam fritters that warm the heart, for between £1.35 and £2.50 each. The staff, however, are a little too polite for those who like their snacks served with a stiff dose of the Cantonese snarl.

Lok Ho Fook, 6 Gerrard St, W1 (0171-437 2001)

Serena Mackesy