The Tippler: Undervalued wines; wines of the week

What are the most undervalued wines in the world today? Easy: sherry and Madeira, both fortified wines, which, thanks to their Vicar of Dibley image, don't cut the mustard with the Red Square set. If you can, spare a thought (or a few quid) for the genuine article. Appetisingly dry fino sherry such as Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe (available at around £8) should help remove all but the most stubborn of prejudices, especially drunk chilled with salted almonds, olives or smoked salmon. For complex, aged sherry, try Lustau's Almacenista Oloroso Pata de Gallina (£7.99, half-bottle, Oddbins, Booths), a traditional, fragrant oloroso, whose smooth-textured richness is underscored by walnut and toffee flavours and a trenchant dry aftertaste.

Contrast these with equally genuine, undervalued Madeira, one of the most characterful of fortified wines thanks to the estufagem process of "cooking", which makes Madeira, aged for a minimum of five years in oak casks, one of the world's longest-lived wines. The dry, walnut and crème brûlée character of the Henriques & Henriques' 15-year-old Verdelho (50cl, £16.99, selected Waitrose branches) deservedly earned this rich, power-packed, just-off-dry wine with its dried fruit flavours the Madeira Trophy at this year's International Wine Challenge. If, like the Duke of Clarence who chose to drown in the stuff, you prefer the richer, sweeter style, try the Blandy's 1994 Malmsey (£12.49, Sainsbury's), whose aromatic, sherryish whiff and Christmas cake of dried fruit flavours could take its toll but won't drown you.

Fizz deals of the week: to celebrate Roberson Wine Merchant's 10th birthday in Kensington, Cliff Roberson, the owner, is inviting customers to come into the Gaudí-esque store between now and New Year's Eve and buy the city bond dealer's favourite, Bollinger Special Cuvée Champagne, for just £19.91 a bottle compared with its usual shelf price of £27.99. To tie in with the launch of its same-day service (for orders received by 1pm), virginwines.com is slashing the 17.5 per cent VAT off all its recommended champagnes, including Bollinger, Ruinart, Taittinger and Lanson Black Label. To see what's on offer, visit www.virginwines.com/fizz3.

White

2001 Dashwood Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, £6.99, Oddbins, Wine Rack, EH Booth, Preston

The new vintage release of this typically good-value Kiwi sauvignon blanc from Vavasour in Marlborough's Awatere Valley is pungently aromatic with classic passion fruit and gooseberry flavours, which combine in a mouthwateringly fresh and juicy tropical fruit blend.

Red

1999 Gigondas Domaine Les Chênes Blancs, £8.99, Majestic (This is an introductory offer, but will be £9.99).

This southern Rhône blend of grenache and syrah from Claudine and Jean Roux in the French village of Gigondas is suffused with a peppery sweetness. It follows through on the palate with a spicy opulence of flavour and the power and firm structure needed for dark meats and game.

Anthony Rose