Are fast food chains hijacking veganism?

Greggs’ vegan sausage roll, KFC’s zero chicken burger and Subway’s meatless marinara... there have never been so many options for vegans, but is this a good thing? Sam Hancock asks whether fast food chains are helping or hindering plant-based diets

Burger King’s soy-based Impossible Whopper is produced by California tech start-up Impossible Foods (Getty)

I went vegan for eight months two years ago. I learnt many things, but here are a few key takeaways I’d like to share: there is some kind of dairy in what feels like everything (did you know there is milk powder in almost all crisps?); it’s harder to commit to wearing vegan trainers than it is to eating a vegan breakfast, lunch and dinner; people will ask you what you eat – constantly; a lot of jokes are made at your expense; your skin really does get better if you eat less dairy; and lastly, arguably most importantly, it’s hard to find good drunk food. Or it was, until recently.

When news broke at the end of last year that not just one but four major fast food chains in the UK were adding vegan items to their menu, I was thrilled. Even though I eventually gave up my plant-based diet and returned to my now six-year vegetarian one, I would still benefit from this move. Goodbye all-I-can-eat-is chips, hello KFC’s zero-chicken burger, Gregg’s vegan Steak Bake, Subway’s Meatless Marinara and Burger King’s plant-based Whopper.

Granted, it wasn’t Gregg’s first foray into the plant-based world: in fact, the baker’s vegan sausage rolls – which launched in January of last year – have been so successful, the company announced a “phenomenal year” for sales in 2019, driven in part by its new product, and that it would share a £7m bonus equally between staff. But for the rest, it was a real landmark moment.