In Rome the big mecca is Castroni, an international delicatessen just north of the Vatican where you can find all the old favourites - Fortnum & Mason marmalade, Bird's Eye custard, Branston pickle, Woodpecker cider, and much more. A 100g packet of Twining's Earl Grey tea costs 6500 lire (about pounds 2.50), a pot of marmalade about the same, while Marmite is a real delicacy at L9800 for 250g.
When you tire of Italian barmen plopping tea bags into lukewarm water, head for Traste, a delightful cafe and tea shop on Via della Lungaretta in Trastevere. English cheese is harder to track down, although a small delicatessen on Via della Croce, near the Spanish steps, will sell you farmhouse Cheddar for an arm and a leg. Better to head for Il Bacaro, a delightful restaurant in Piazza degli Spagnoli near Piazza Navona, where the original pasta dishes include one made with Brussels sprouts and blue Stilton.
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