Fashion: My vision of loveliness

Photographs by Peter Warren

Styled by Zoe Brown

Make-up by Sharon Wilmore using Clinique

Hair by Rudi at Windle using Bumble & Bumble (Tel: 0171 497 2393)

Modelled by Kamilla

Photographer assisted by Lindsay Cameron

Shot at Alphaville Studios (Tel: 0171 490 8889)

Peter Warren, photographer's shot

"Although I shot everyone's choice on Polaroid film first and then went onto shooting it on normal 'roll' film, I chose the actual Polaroid for my final choice, and this is what you see here. Polaroid has a special feel to it, it's slightly ethereal and magical. I didn't really care about what clothes she had on, but this outfit had a nice textural quality and didn't make too much of a statement. My job, primarily, is to attract the reader and you can only do that by taking a beautiful picture. There's no point showing every detail of the hair, make up and clothes if the picture is so ugly that the reader turns the page."

Grey chiffon apron dress (sizes 8-16) and double layered skirt, pounds 92, both Amaya Arzuaga, 400 Oxford Street, London W1. Flannels, Amazon House, 3 Brazil Street, Manchester. (Tel: 0171 935 9393).

This week I fancied something a little different, so I've decided to tell you about what happens on a fashion shoot, because sometimes it's a wonder fashion pictures make it onto the page at all.

Usually, it's the stylist that "directs" the shoot with the photographer. The balance of power can shift in favour of stylist or photographer, depending on who is the "bigger" name. (The hair stylist, make-up artist and model all play crucial roles but don't have much say in the directing of the shoot.)

It's tricky, because everyone wants different things: the photographer wants arty, lovely pictures but doesn't always see the clothes as that important; the stylist wants to see the clothes; the model will get upset if you can't see her face - and, in that case, why have a make-up artist? Then the hair stylist will spend hours on a coiff, only to have it ruined by the stylist sticking a hat on the model's head!

My main concern with fashion pictures is that the clothes should be visible, but presented in an appealing way. No black-on-black tomfoolery but no boring "catalogue"-style shots either. I brief the stylist, Zoe, and she books the crew, calls the clothes in and briefs everybody else.

When the pictures come back, it's down to me to choose the exact edit. Here's where the fun really starts. The stylist might want a frame that shows perfect clothes, whereas I'll pick a shot where the shirt is creased (I like reality) and the photographer may prefer the one which would look perfect shown on its own - but I have to think about what works on the page as a whole.

This week, I let each member of the crew direct his or her very own shot; they chose the clothes and the poses. So this is what you'd get if they were left to their own devices. Next week I'm back in charge.

dear annie will be back next week.

Sharon Wilmore, make-up artist's shot

"I wanted the model's personality to come through, so that's what I tried to capture for this frame. I don't mind if you don't always see her make- up as it's the whole look that counts, but it is annoying when people want to do the close up at the end of a shoot when the make-up isn't as fresh as it could be. I once spent an hour and a half doing make-up on a job and, in the editing process, they cut her head off in every frame."

Black silk v neck top with elongated sleeves (sizes 8-16), pounds 190, John Rocha, 60 Sloane Avenue, London SW3. Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin. (Tel: 0171 838 0017). Black/white feather necklace, pounds 225, Jess James, 3 Newburgh Street, London W1. (Tel: 0171 437 0199).

Kamilla, model's shot (left)

"I rarely get the chance to laugh, and laughing is a pleasure and makes for a great atmosphere so that's what I asked to do. I chose these clothes because they were my style - relaxed, loose but sexy. Yes, it's frustrating if, in the final edit, they choose pictures where you can't see me very well but what can you do? That's life as a model."

Black silk v neck top (sizes 8-16), pounds 190, John Rocha, 60 Sloane Avenue, London SW3. Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin. (Tel: 0171 838 0017).

Annalisa Barbieri, editor's shot (below)

"For these pages I like things to look incidental. I took Kamilla's hair down, got rid of her false eyelashes and told her to just relax. We caught her as she was chatting to the hairstylist - it was completely unposed. I also like to capture models eating because, despite rumours to the contrary, most of them eat an enormous amount of junk. When I'm editing I listen to what the photographer and the stylist like - they are often with me when I edit - but then I make my own mind up. I'm there to choose the best shots for the reader, not for the photographer's book, and I can get quite fierce about it."

Pale pink cashmere vest (sizes xs-xl), pounds 252, Clements Ribiero, A la Mode, 36 Hans Crescent, London SW3. (Tel: 0171 584 2133).

Zoe Brown, stylist's shot (above)

"I wanted this shot to be full length because it worked well with the clothes - but that's not necessarily what I always like. At the start of a shoot I explain the brief to the crew. At times there will be battles, but I have a brief to stick to so I have to stand my ground; it's me who has to go back to the editor."

White cotton pleated dress (sizes 38-44), pounds 285, Dries van Noten, Whistles, 12-14 St Christopher's Place, London W1. 19 Westbury Mall, Balfe Street, Dublin. (Tel: 0171 487 4484). Grey linen fleck long skirt (sizes 8-16), pounds 182, John Rocha, 60 Sloane Avenue, London SW3. Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin. (Tel: 0171 838 0017). White slip-on shoes (sizes 3-8), pounds 126, Strenesse, Harrods, London SW1. (Tel: 0171 287 6767).

Rudi, hair stylist's shot (left)

"I like to pick up on a detail in the clothes, so here I echoed the black sculptural top with the black ribbons in her sculptural hair. I hate busy hair, I like simple detail and I was able to direct the shot to show the detail I wanted. I don't get frustrated if you can't see the hair - it's the creative process that interests me. I do the best I can, then walk away."

Black crinkle funnel neck top (sizes 8-16), pounds 81, Amaya Arzuaga, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1. Flannels, Amazon House, 3 Brazil Street, Manchester. (Tel: 0171 935 9393).

News
scienceExcitement from alien hunters at 'evidence' of extraterrestrial life
Life and Style
Customers can get their caffeine fix on the move
food + drink
News
newsRyan Crighton goes in search of the capo dei capi
Extras
indybest

PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Arts and Entertainment
Actors front row from left, Jared Leto, Jennifer Lawrence, Meryl Streep, Ellen DeGeneres, Bradley Cooper, Peter Nyongío Jr., and, second row, from left, Channing Tatum, Julia Roberts, Kevin Spacey, Brad Pitt, Lupita Nyongío and Angelina Jolie as they pose for a
film
Sport
sport
Life and Style
techCould new invention save millions in healthcare bills?
Sport
David Moyes gets soaked
sport Moyes becomes latest manager to take part in the ALS challenge
Voices
A meteor streaks across the sky during the Perseid Meteor Shower at a wind farm near Bogdanci, south of Skopje, Macedonia, in the early hours of 13 August
voicesHagel and Dempsey were pure Hollywood. They only needed Tom Cruise, says Robert Fisk
News
peopleEnglishman managed quintessential Hollywood restaurant Chasen's
Life and Style
food + drinkHarrods launches gourmet food qualification for staff
Arts and Entertainment
Michael Flatley prepares to bid farewell to the West End stage
danceMichael Flatley hits West End for last time alongside Team GB World champion Alice Upcott
Life and Style
Horst P Horst mid-fashion shoot in New York, 1949
fashionFar-reaching retrospective to celebrate Horst P Horst's six decades of creativity
News
Members and supporters of the lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender (LGBT) community walk with a rainbow flag during a rally in July
i100
Life and Style
Black Ivory Coffee is made using beans plucked from elephants' waste after ingested by the animals
food + drinkFirm says it has created the "rarest" coffee in the world
Life and Style
news

As Voltaire once said, “Ice cream is exquisite. What a pity it isn’t illegal”

Life and Style
food + drinkThese simple recipes will have you refreshed within minutes
Independent
Travel Shop
the manor
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on city breaks Find out more
santorini
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on chic beach resorts Find out more
sardina foodie
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on country retreats Find out more
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs General

    C#.NET VB6 Developer (Software Developer, Software Engineer)

    Negotiable: Harrington Starr: C#.NET VB6 Developer (Software Developer, Softwa...

    Service Desk Analyst- Desktop Support, Helpdesk, ITIL

    £20000 - £27000 per annum: Harrington Starr: Service Desk Analyst- (Desktop Su...

    Service Desk Analyst - (Active Directory, Support, London)

    £25000 - £35000 per annum: Harrington Starr: Service Desk Analyst - (Active Di...

    Junior Quant Analyst - C++, Boost, Data Mining

    £30000 - £50000 per annum: Harrington Starr: Junior Quant Analyst - C++, Boost...

    Day In a Page

    All this talk of an ‘apocalyptic’ threat is simply childish

    Robert Fisk: All this talk of an ‘apocalyptic’ threat is simply childish

    Chuck Hagel and Martin Dempsey were pure Hollywood. They only needed Tom Cruise
    Mafia Dons: is the Camorra in control of the Granite City?

    Mafia Dons: is the Camorra in control of the Granite City?

    So claims an EU report which points to the Italian Mob’s alleged grip on everything from public works to property
    Emmys look set to overhaul the Oscars as Hollywood’s prize draw

    Emmys look set to overhaul the Oscars as Hollywood’s prize draw

    Once the poor relation, the awards show now has the top stars and boasts the best drama
    What happens to African migrants once they land in Italy during the summer?

    What happens to migrants once they land in Italy?

    Memphis Barker follows their trail through southern Europe
    French connection: After 1,300 years, there’s a bridge to Mont Saint-Michel

    French connection: After 1,300 years, there’s a bridge to Mont Saint-Michel

    The ugly causeway is being dismantled, an elegant connection erected in its place. So everyone’s happy, right?
    Frank Mugisha: Uganda's most outspoken gay rights activist on changing people's attitudes, coming out, and the threat of being attacked

    Frank Mugisha: 'Coming out was a gradual process '

    Uganda's most outspoken gay rights activist on changing people's attitudes, coming out, and the threat of being attacked
    Radio 1 to hire 'YouTube-famous' vloggers to broadcast online

    Radio 1’s new top ten

    The ‘vloggers’ signed up to find twentysomething audience
    David Abraham: Big ideas for the small screen

    David Abraham: Big ideas for the small screen

    A blistering attack on US influence on British television has lifted the savvy head of Channel 4 out of the shadows
    Florence Knight's perfect picnic: Make the most of summer's last Bank Holiday weekend

    Florence Knight's perfect picnic

    Polpetto's head chef shares her favourite recipes from Iced Earl Grey tea to baked peaches, mascarpone & brown sugar meringues...
    Horst P Horst: The fashion photography genius who inspired Madonna comes to the V&A

    Horst P Horst comes to the V&A

    The London's museum has delved into its archives to stage a far-reaching retrospective celebrating the photographer's six decades of creativity
    Mark Hix recipes: Try our chef's summery soups for a real seasonal refresher

    Mark Hix's summery soups

    Soup isn’t just about comforting broths and steaming hot bowls...
    Tim Sherwood column: 'It started as a three-horse race but turned into the Grand National'

    Tim Sherwood column

    I would have taken the Crystal Palace job if I’d been offered it soon after my interview... but the whole process dragged on so I had to pull out
    Eden Hazard: Young, gifted... not yet perfect

    Eden Hazard: Young, gifted... not yet perfect

    Eden Hazard admits he is still below the level of Ronaldo and Messi but, after a breakthrough season, is ready to thrill Chelsea’s fans
    Tim Howard: I’m an old dog. I don’t get too excited

    Tim Howard: I’m an old dog. I don’t get too excited

    The Everton and US goalkeeper was such a star at the World Cup that the President phoned to congratulate him... not that he knows what the fuss is all about
    Match of the Day at 50: Show reminds us that even the most revered BBC institution may have a finite lifespan – thanks to the opposition

    Tom Peck on Match of the Day at 50

    The show reminds us that even the most revered BBC institution may have a finite lifespan – thanks to the opposition