Fashion: My vision of loveliness

Photographs by Peter Warren

Styled by Zoe Brown

Make-up by Sharon Wilmore using Clinique

Hair by Rudi at Windle using Bumble & Bumble (Tel: 0171 497 2393)

Modelled by Kamilla

Photographer assisted by Lindsay Cameron

Shot at Alphaville Studios (Tel: 0171 490 8889)

Peter Warren, photographer's shot

"Although I shot everyone's choice on Polaroid film first and then went onto shooting it on normal 'roll' film, I chose the actual Polaroid for my final choice, and this is what you see here. Polaroid has a special feel to it, it's slightly ethereal and magical. I didn't really care about what clothes she had on, but this outfit had a nice textural quality and didn't make too much of a statement. My job, primarily, is to attract the reader and you can only do that by taking a beautiful picture. There's no point showing every detail of the hair, make up and clothes if the picture is so ugly that the reader turns the page."

Grey chiffon apron dress (sizes 8-16) and double layered skirt, pounds 92, both Amaya Arzuaga, 400 Oxford Street, London W1. Flannels, Amazon House, 3 Brazil Street, Manchester. (Tel: 0171 935 9393).

This week I fancied something a little different, so I've decided to tell you about what happens on a fashion shoot, because sometimes it's a wonder fashion pictures make it onto the page at all.

Usually, it's the stylist that "directs" the shoot with the photographer. The balance of power can shift in favour of stylist or photographer, depending on who is the "bigger" name. (The hair stylist, make-up artist and model all play crucial roles but don't have much say in the directing of the shoot.)

It's tricky, because everyone wants different things: the photographer wants arty, lovely pictures but doesn't always see the clothes as that important; the stylist wants to see the clothes; the model will get upset if you can't see her face - and, in that case, why have a make-up artist? Then the hair stylist will spend hours on a coiff, only to have it ruined by the stylist sticking a hat on the model's head!

My main concern with fashion pictures is that the clothes should be visible, but presented in an appealing way. No black-on-black tomfoolery but no boring "catalogue"-style shots either. I brief the stylist, Zoe, and she books the crew, calls the clothes in and briefs everybody else.

When the pictures come back, it's down to me to choose the exact edit. Here's where the fun really starts. The stylist might want a frame that shows perfect clothes, whereas I'll pick a shot where the shirt is creased (I like reality) and the photographer may prefer the one which would look perfect shown on its own - but I have to think about what works on the page as a whole.

This week, I let each member of the crew direct his or her very own shot; they chose the clothes and the poses. So this is what you'd get if they were left to their own devices. Next week I'm back in charge.

dear annie will be back next week.

Sharon Wilmore, make-up artist's shot

"I wanted the model's personality to come through, so that's what I tried to capture for this frame. I don't mind if you don't always see her make- up as it's the whole look that counts, but it is annoying when people want to do the close up at the end of a shoot when the make-up isn't as fresh as it could be. I once spent an hour and a half doing make-up on a job and, in the editing process, they cut her head off in every frame."

Black silk v neck top with elongated sleeves (sizes 8-16), pounds 190, John Rocha, 60 Sloane Avenue, London SW3. Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin. (Tel: 0171 838 0017). Black/white feather necklace, pounds 225, Jess James, 3 Newburgh Street, London W1. (Tel: 0171 437 0199).

Kamilla, model's shot (left)

"I rarely get the chance to laugh, and laughing is a pleasure and makes for a great atmosphere so that's what I asked to do. I chose these clothes because they were my style - relaxed, loose but sexy. Yes, it's frustrating if, in the final edit, they choose pictures where you can't see me very well but what can you do? That's life as a model."

Black silk v neck top (sizes 8-16), pounds 190, John Rocha, 60 Sloane Avenue, London SW3. Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin. (Tel: 0171 838 0017).

Annalisa Barbieri, editor's shot (below)

"For these pages I like things to look incidental. I took Kamilla's hair down, got rid of her false eyelashes and told her to just relax. We caught her as she was chatting to the hairstylist - it was completely unposed. I also like to capture models eating because, despite rumours to the contrary, most of them eat an enormous amount of junk. When I'm editing I listen to what the photographer and the stylist like - they are often with me when I edit - but then I make my own mind up. I'm there to choose the best shots for the reader, not for the photographer's book, and I can get quite fierce about it."

Pale pink cashmere vest (sizes xs-xl), pounds 252, Clements Ribiero, A la Mode, 36 Hans Crescent, London SW3. (Tel: 0171 584 2133).

Zoe Brown, stylist's shot (above)

"I wanted this shot to be full length because it worked well with the clothes - but that's not necessarily what I always like. At the start of a shoot I explain the brief to the crew. At times there will be battles, but I have a brief to stick to so I have to stand my ground; it's me who has to go back to the editor."

White cotton pleated dress (sizes 38-44), pounds 285, Dries van Noten, Whistles, 12-14 St Christopher's Place, London W1. 19 Westbury Mall, Balfe Street, Dublin. (Tel: 0171 487 4484). Grey linen fleck long skirt (sizes 8-16), pounds 182, John Rocha, 60 Sloane Avenue, London SW3. Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin. (Tel: 0171 838 0017). White slip-on shoes (sizes 3-8), pounds 126, Strenesse, Harrods, London SW1. (Tel: 0171 287 6767).

Rudi, hair stylist's shot (left)

"I like to pick up on a detail in the clothes, so here I echoed the black sculptural top with the black ribbons in her sculptural hair. I hate busy hair, I like simple detail and I was able to direct the shot to show the detail I wanted. I don't get frustrated if you can't see the hair - it's the creative process that interests me. I do the best I can, then walk away."

Black crinkle funnel neck top (sizes 8-16), pounds 81, Amaya Arzuaga, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1. Flannels, Amazon House, 3 Brazil Street, Manchester. (Tel: 0171 935 9393).

Life and Style
Fans line up at the AVNs, straining to capture a photo of their favourite star
life Tim Walker asks how much longer it can flesh out an existence
Life and Style
Every minute of every day, Twitter is awash with anger as we seek to let these organisations know precisely what we think of them
techWhen it comes to vitriol, no one on attracts our ire more than big businesses offering bad service
News
Professor David Nutt wants to change the way gravely ill patients are treated in Britain
people Why does a former Government tsar believe that mind-altering drugs have a place on prescription?
News
Norway’s ‘The Nordland Line – Minute by Minute, Season by Season’ continues the trend of slow TV
television
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Arts and Entertainment
art
Sport
Jonny Evans has pleaded not guilty to an FA charge for spitting at Papiss Cisse
football
Life and Style
Kate Moss will make a cameo appearance in David Walliams' The Boy in the Dress
fashion
News
The image released by the Salvation Army, using 'The Dress'
news
Sport
Liverpool defender Kolo Toure
football Defender could make history in the FA Cup, but African Cup of Nations win means he's already content
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs General

    Ashdown Group: Technical Presales Consultant - London - £65,000 OTE.

    £65000 per annum: Ashdown Group: Technical Presales Engineer - central London ...

    Recruitment Genius: Physiotherapist / Sports Therapist

    £20000 - £50000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Physiotherapist / Sports Ther...

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Executive / Advisor

    £8 - £9 per hour: Recruitment Genius: Sales Executives / Advisors are required...

    Recruitment Genius: Warehouse Operative

    £14000 - £15000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: An opportunity has arisen for a...

    Day In a Page

    Homeless Veterans campaign: Donations hit record-breaking £1m target after £300,000 gift from Lloyds Bank

    Homeless Veterans campaign

    Donations hit record-breaking £1m target after huge gift from Lloyds Bank
    Flight MH370 a year on: Lost without a trace – but the search goes on

    Lost without a trace

    But, a year on, the search continues for Flight MH370
    Germany's spymasters left red-faced after thieves break into brand new secret service HQ and steal taps

    Germany's spy HQ springs a leak

    Thieves break into new €1.5bn complex... to steal taps
    International Women's Day 2015: Celebrating the whirlwind wit of Simone de Beauvoir

    Whirlwind wit of Simone de Beauvoir

    Simone de Beauvoir's seminal feminist polemic, 'The Second Sex', has been published in short-form for International Women's Day
    Mark Zuckerberg’s hiring policy might suit him – but it wouldn’t work for me

    Mark Zuckerberg’s hiring policy might suit him – but it wouldn’t work for me

    Why would I want to employ someone I’d be happy to have as my boss, asks Simon Kelner
    Confessions of a planespotter: With three Britons under arrest in the UAE, the perils have never been more apparent

    Confessions of a planespotter

    With three Britons under arrest in the UAE, the perils have never been more apparent. Sam Masters explains the appeal
    Russia's gulag museum 'makes no mention' of Stalin's atrocities

    Russia's gulag museum

    Ministry of Culture-run site 'makes no mention' of Stalin's atrocities
    The big fresh food con: Alarming truth behind the chocolate muffin that won't decay

    The big fresh food con

    Joanna Blythman reveals the alarming truth behind the chocolate muffin that won't decay
    Virginia Ironside was my landlady: What is it like to live with an agony aunt on call 24/7?

    Virginia Ironside was my landlady

    Tim Willis reveals what it's like to live with an agony aunt on call 24/7
    Paris Fashion Week 2015: The wit and wisdom of Manish Arora's exercise in high camp

    Paris Fashion Week 2015

    The wit and wisdom of Manish Arora's exercise in high camp
    8 best workout DVDs

    8 best workout DVDs

    If your 'New Year new you' regime hasn’t lasted beyond February, why not try working out from home?
    Paul Scholes column: I don't believe Jonny Evans was spitting at Papiss Cissé. It was a reflex. But what the Newcastle striker did next was horrible

    Paul Scholes column

    I don't believe Evans was spitting at Cissé. It was a reflex. But what the Newcastle striker did next was horrible
    Miguel Layun interview: From the Azteca to Vicarage Road with a million followers

    From the Azteca to Vicarage Road with a million followers

    Miguel Layun is a star in Mexico where he was criticised for leaving to join Watford. But he says he sees the bigger picture
    Frank Warren column: Amir Khan ready to meet winner of Floyd Mayweather v Manny Pacquiao

    Khan ready to meet winner of Mayweather v Pacquiao

    The Bolton fighter is unlikely to take on Kell Brook with two superstar opponents on the horizon, says Frank Warren
    War with Isis: Iraq's government fights to win back Tikrit from militants - but then what?

    Baghdad fights to win back Tikrit from Isis – but then what?

    Patrick Cockburn reports from Kirkuk on a conflict which sectarianism has made intractable