Fashion Special: WALK THIS WAY

Susannah Frankel unveils the 10 key looks for the new season Research by Gemma Hayward Photographs by Chris Moore

SPRING/SUMMER 2005 and fashion is in no mood for challenging. Instead, looks are reassuringly familiar rather than dark and distressed; unashamedly pretty and even naive with not a care for the politically correct. Inspiration comes from fields as diverse as the photographs by the late Richard Avedon (Dolce & Gabbana) and circus acrobats (Louis Vuitton); as an antique book on the subject of nautical knots (Helmut Lang) and the china of Clarice Cliff (Burberry Prorsum). This is not a good time for the studiously cool and affected. Instead, embracing your inner child seems more appropriate just now.

It should come as no surprise, then, that the Sixties and Seventies are the eras most ripe for reinvention - yes, the spirit of the hippie is very much on the fashion agenda, although thankfully not as literally as it has been in the past. Across the board, fashion's passion for all that is vintage continues. Will it ever end? Marc Jacobs is still enamoured with a Forties-Fifties silhouette at Louis Vuitton; the Eighties are never far from Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquiere's mind, and who would expect anything but antique-lingerie-inspired clothing from both Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo at Chloe? It is their staple style, after all.

Pink and white are the colours of the season with more than a touch of primrose yellow thrown in. Fondant shades and brighter hues reminiscent of boiled sweets all take precedence over black, for the time being at least.

All this sits well with a proudly girlish love of embellishment (over and above anything even remotely pared down), which is, for the most part, still very much the order of the day. Pile everything but the kitchen sink on to clothing and - even more so - accessories, and rest safe in the knowledge that you are in the finest and most fashionable company.

If, however, such frippery is wearing a little thin, take solace in the knowledge that at least a handful of designers are moving in a rather less fussy direction. Alongside all the sequins, sparkle, ribbons and bows, a new simplicity and ease is offered up by the likes of Lanvin, Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and Hussein Chalayan. It is like a palette cleanser after years that have proposed anything but.

Rich hippies From modernised psychedelia to tiered white dresses straight out of a Timotei ad, the late Sixties and early Seventies are the eras to see and be seen plundering

"It was a little about the spirit of the hippie, about freedom, but keeping it modern. You retain the colour or some symbol but change everything else"

Miuccia Prada

Charmingly naive Celebrate all that is bright, breezy and girlish. But things are rarely as simple as they seem - some of these garments suggest a dark underbelly

"In the end it was all about asking: Why can't naivety and fragility go on past puberty?"

Alexander McQueen

Pretty in pink Sugar and spice and all things nice - that, as we all know, is what little girls are made of. And, of course, they all like to wear pink, too - so embrace the sugar-sweet

"I have no problem with the word cliche. I think things become that way for a reason"

Marc Jacobs

Power dressing Another Eighties revival, and why not? This was the era when designer fashion realised its full power. Brass buttons whisper Nancy Reagan. Frills show a feminine side

"I like taking these codes which were chic a long time ago and making them relevant for now"

Nicolas Ghesquiere

Back to nature Delicate florals, swallows and sycamore leaves have found their way across everything from dramatic, boldly printed kaftans to elaborately appliqued vests

"I'm in the mood for something a little fresher, a little happier, a little more upbeat"

Christopher Bailey

Pure and simple While vintage-inspired, highly embellished style continues to reign, a new minimalism is emerging. It may look uncomplicated - it's often anything but

"Simplicity is not a

word that fashion thinks about very much"

Alber Elbaz

The travel bug The romance of wanderlust never fails to move, and optimism is the spirit of the season. Inspiration is found everywhere - from Africa to Eastern Europe

"We have always thought of travel as romantic. It is when you detach yourself from routine and from everyday reality"

Dolce & Gabbana

White heat The colour of innocence and astronomically high dry- cleaning bills. Looks inspired by antique lingerie rub shoulders with the crisp and androgynous, all is light as a feather

"Summer in the city, straight out of your holiday suitcase"

Stella McCartney

Nautical but nice It was introduced by Gabrielle `Coco' Chanel, and it's been a summer stalwart ever since. With a less literal interpretation, it's now one of the season's finest styles

"It was all boat-related but we like to take the idea and push it as far away as possible from what it was originally"

Helmut Lang

And finally ... From binocular bags to backpacks, accessories are here in all varieties. Long necklaces, rope heels and big sunglasses add a touch of Sixties/Seventies hippie chic

"It's all about change, and this time it's bright, kaleidoscopicand happy"

John Galliano

Sport
Alexis Sanchez has completed a £35m move to Arsenal, the club have confirmed
sportGunners complete £35m signing of Barcelona forward
Voices
Poor teachers should be fearful of not getting pay rises or losing their job if they fail to perform, Steve Fairclough, headteacher of Abbotsholme School, suggested
voicesChris Sloggett explains why it has become an impossible career path
Sport
world cup 2014
Sport
Popes current and former won't be watching the football together
PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
Sport
News
Wayne’s estate faces a claim for alleged copyright breaches
newsJohn Wayne's heirs duke it out with university over use of the late film star's nickname
Arts and Entertainment
Celebrated children’s author Allan Ahlberg, best known for Each Peach Pear Plum
books
News
peopleIndian actress known as the 'Grand Old Lady of Bollywood' was 102
News
business
News
Mick Jagger performing at Glastonbury
people
Sport
Germany's Andre Greipel crosses the finish line to win the sixth stage of the Tour de France cycling race over 194 kilometers (120.5 miles) with start in Arras and finish in Reims, France
tour de franceGerman champion achieves sixth Tour stage win in Reims
Extras
indybest
Life and Style
beautyBelgian fan lands L'Oreal campaign after being spotted at World Cup
News
people
Arts and Entertainment
Chocolat author Joanne Harris has spoken about the financial struggles most authors face
books
Independent
Travel Shop
the manor
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on city breaks Find out more
santorini
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on chic beach resorts Find out more
sardina foodie
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on country retreats Find out more
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs General

    Business Analyst Consultant (Financial Services)

    £60000 - £75000 per annum: Harrington Starr: Business Analyst Consultant (Fina...

    Systems Administrator - Linux / Unix / Windows / TCP/IP / SAN

    £60000 per annum: Harrington Starr: A leading provider in investment managemen...

    AVS, JVS Openlink Endur Developer

    £600 - £700 per day: Harrington Starr: AVS, JVS Openlink Endur Developer JVS, ...

    E-Commerce Developer

    £45000 - £60000 per annum + competitive: Progressive Recruitment: Exciting opp...

    Day In a Page

    A History of the First World War in 100 Moments: Peace without magnanimity - the summit in a railway siding that ended the fighting

    A History of the First World War in 100 Moments

    Peace without magnanimity - the summit in a railway siding that ended the fighting
    Scottish independence: How the Commonwealth Games could swing the vote

    Scottish independence: How the Commonwealth Games could swing the vote

    In the final part of our series, Chris Green arrives in Glasgow - a host city struggling to keep the politics out of its celebration of sport
    The true Gaza back-story that the Israelis aren’t telling this week

    The true Gaza back-story that the Israelis aren’t telling this week

    A future Palestine state will have no borders and be an enclave within Israel, surrounded on all sides by Israeli-held territory, says Robert Fisk
    A History of the First World War in 100 Moments: The German people demand an end to the fighting

    A History of the First World War in 100 Moments

    The German people demand an end to the fighting
    New play by Oscar Wilde's grandson reveals what the Irish wit said at his trials

    New play reveals what Oscar Wilde said at trials

    For a century, what Wilde actually said at his trials was a mystery. But the recent discovery of shorthand notes changed that. Now his grandson Merlin Holland has turned them into a play
    Can scientists save the world's sea life from

    Can scientists save our sea life?

    By the end of the century, the only living things left in our oceans could be plankton and jellyfish. Alex Renton meets the scientists who are trying to turn the tide
    Richard III, Trafalgar Studios, review: Martin Freeman gives highly intelligent performance

    Richard III review

    Martin Freeman’s psychotic monarch is big on mockery but wanting in malice
    Hollywood targets Asian audiences as US films enjoy record-breaking run at Chinese box office

    Hollywood targets Asian audiences

    The world's second biggest movie market is fast becoming the Hollywood studios' most crucial
    Grindr founder Joel Simkhai: 'I've found love on my dating app - and my mum keeps trying to hook me up!'

    Grindr founder Joel Simkhai: 'I've found love on my dating app'

    Five years on from its launch and Grindr is the world's most popular dating app for gay men. Its founder Joel Simkhai answers his critics, describes his isolation as a child
    Autocorrect has its uses but it can go rogue with embarrassing results - so is it time to ditch it?

    Is it time to ditch autocorrect?

    Matthew J X Malady persuaded friends to message manually instead, but failed to factor in fat fingers and drunk texting
    10 best girls' summer dresses

    Frock chick: 10 best girls' summer dresses

    Get them ready for the holidays with these cool and pretty options 
    Westminster’s dark secret: Adultery, homosexuality, sadomasochism and abuse of children were all seemingly lumped together

    Westminster’s dark secret

    Adultery, homosexuality, sadomasochism and abuse of children were all seemingly lumped together
    A History of the First World War in 100 Moments: Dulce et decorum est - a life cut short for a poet whose work achieved immortality

    A History of the First World War in 100 Moments

    Dulce et decorum est: a life cut short for a poet whose work achieved immortality
    Google tells popular music website to censor album cover art in 'sexually explicit content' ban

    Naked censorship?

    The strange case of Google, the music website and the nudity take-down requests