Cream of the crop: Menswear is caught stylishly short for spring/summer 2016

This season, menswear designers are obsessed with an abbreviated ankle. To bare or not to bare, though, is the real question, as Sarah Young investigates fashion’s newfound socks appeal.

Margaret Howell Spring/Summer 2016

Hemlines aren’t normally an area of contention in the world of menswear, but after several seasons of what is often referred to as ‘the Thom Browne effect’ – namely, the ever diminishing length of trousers in emulation of the signature shrunken suiting of that influential New York designer – it seems as though spring’s most fashionable trousers are finishing definitively above the ankle. A polarising piece that goes hand in hand with warm weather dressing, shorter cuts have been around for a while, but this season the international catwalks were particularly awash with ‘mankle’ as the likes of Margaret Howell, Raf Simons and Alexander McQueen capitalised on hitched-up bottoms.

There are very few things more significant in menswear than fit, but this is a trend that goes against the cardinal rules of traditional tailoring as designers attempt to reimagine the entire aesthetic of the trouser. Shorter cuts look particularly great during spring/summer: they’re also an easy way to add a new level of interest to an everyday outfit, making everything more playful. Standard rules don’t apply here, though, and whether it’s cropped slacks or rolled-up jeans, the most important decision to make is whether or not to don a ritzy sock.


 Christopher Raeburn Spring/Summer 2016

This season, other than McQueen who opted to flash a well-groomed expanse of bare ankle (as popularised on the continent), the emphasis has been on men’s socks. As far as the catwalk is concerned, the key to successful cropped dressing is to opt for something tonal. Raf Simons paired his squat slacks with a black offering, while Christopher Raeburn kept things simple with chunky grey and khaki socks. But if you’re looking to make more of a statement, then it’s go bold or go home; over at Margaret Howell, while the colour remained modest, contrasting stripes added a fresh and arresting twist. Meanwhile, crop connoisseur Thom Browne went all out with stark white tabi socks and traditional geta sandals. Only for the brave.

Speaking of which, stunted hems are also a really great way to show off your shoes, and while the idea of wearing socks and sandals may kindle an innate sense of terror, there are plenty of other footwear picks to opt for. From minimalistic tennis shoes to chunky boots or brogues, this trend really allows you to push the limits as far as you are comfortable with, and is a great way to experiment with colour, pattern and fit without seeming to try too hard.