Expressionism meets fashion on day two of Paris shows

Dries Van Noten took cues from his latest menswear line on Wednesday for a fall-winter pret-a-porter collection that featured coats with assymetric lapels and jackets in wool and tweed.

Showing in the Hotel de Ville on day two of Paris fashion week, the Belgian designer sent out a raft of silk prints that could have stepped out of an art gallery, tinges with such novelties as a T-shirt that morphed into a sarong.

Trousers were voluminous, more so than others seen so far this season in the French capital, and a psychedlic pattern on a pair of socks inside satin-blue peep-toe shoes was a quirky touch.

It was hard to make out any connection with David Bowie and the Russian ballet which, Van Noten told AFP backstage after the show, were his prime influences for this season.

But the designer had encouraging words for John Galliano, whose abrupt fall from grace at Christian Dior has been the talk of the shows. "I find it all very sad and I hope he comes through," he said in Dutch.

Galliano apologised on Wednesday for spewing hateful remarks at a hip Paris cafe, but denied he was anti-semitic, as French prosecutors said he would appear in court by June to answer charges of racial or religious insults.

Marcel Marongiu at Guy Laroche drew inspiration from post-World War II expressionist art for a collection that put a welcome shot of colour into what has been so far a rather monochrome batch of opening shows.

For his refined yet accessible collection, the Franco-Swedish designer sent out a rich array of red, black and white outfits cut just above the knee, many with assymetric shoulders, including a printed dress accented with a wide belt.

Knitted dresses with geometric patterns of black, grey and green - worn by models with sharp red lipstick and long flowing hair - best represented Marongiu's hommage to the likes of painters Pierre Soulages and Mark Rothko.

French designer Anne Valerie Hash used her own Parisian atelier - a former brothel turned synagogue - to present a sophisticated collection best described by an American guest in one word: "Soothing."

Soft-shouldered jackets, meticulously tailored, were matched with relaxed cuffed trousers in autumnal colours, with a beige jumpsuit thrown in to close a very zen-like show. Materials included cashmere, silk and velvet.

"Softness is something we like," Hash told AFP backstage Wednesday after the show in the cutting and sewing workshop where she works with a close-knit team that is predominantly Japanese and entirely East Asian.

"We are in the spirit of today, one in which we adapt because we don't know what's going to happen between economic crises and a world that is changing," she said. "I am someone who needs softness."

For inspiration, Hash collaborated with Huang Zhiyang, a Taiwan-born artist living in Beijing whose paintings were made into prints - "and I'm someone who never works with prints" - and whose sculptures informed skirts and dresses.

Felipe Oliveira Baptista, appointed last year to the creative helm at Lacoste, kept well clear of classic sportswear for his own-label show at the Palais de Tokyo in which he sent out alternating outdoor and indoor looks.

Highlights from the Portuguese-born, British-trained designer included a hooded biker jacket in muted green, a bulky black roll-neck sweater and a variety of little black dresses accented with sequins.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Arts and Entertainment
Books should be for everyone, says Els, 8. Publisher Scholastic now agrees
booksAn eight-year-old saw a pirate book was ‘for boys’ and took on the publishers
Life and Style
Mary Beard received abuse after speaking positively on 'Question Time' about immigrant workers: 'When people say ridiculous, untrue and hurtful things, then I think you should call them out'
tech
Life and Style
Most mail-order brides are thought to come from Thailand, the Philippines and Romania
life
News
i100
Life and Style
tech
Voices
Margaret Thatcher, with her director of publicity Sir Gordon Reece, who helped her and the Tory Party to victory in 1979
voicesThe subject is being celebrated by the V&A museum, triggering some happy memories for former PR man DJ Taylor
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Installation and Service / Security Engineer

    £22000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This company is part of a Group...

    Recruitment Genius: Service Charge Accounts Assistant

    £16000 - £18000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Are you a a young, dynamic pers...

    Cancer Research UK: Corporate Partnerships Volunteer Events Coordinator – London

    Voluntary: Cancer Research UK: We’re looking for someone to support our award ...

    Ashdown Group: Head of IT - Hertfordshire - £90,000

    £70000 - £90000 per annum + bonus + car allowance + benefits: Ashdown Group: H...

    Day In a Page

    General Election 2015: Chuka Umunna on the benefits of immigration, humility – and his leader Ed Miliband

    Chuka Umunna: A virus of racism runs through Ukip

    The shadow business secretary on the benefits of immigration, humility – and his leader Ed Miliband
    Yemen crisis: This exotic war will soon become Europe's problem

    Yemen's exotic war will soon affect Europe

    Terrorism and boatloads of desperate migrants will be the outcome of the Saudi air campaign, says Patrick Cockburn
    Marginal Streets project aims to document voters in the run-up to the General Election

    Marginal Streets project documents voters

    Independent photographers Joseph Fox and Orlando Gili are uploading two portraits of constituents to their website for each day of the campaign
    Game of Thrones: Visit the real-life kingdom of Westeros to see where violent history ends and telly tourism begins

    The real-life kingdom of Westeros

    Is there something a little uncomfortable about Game of Thrones shooting in Northern Ireland?
    How to survive a social-media mauling, by the tough women of Twitter

    How to survive a Twitter mauling

    Mary Beard, Caroline Criado-Perez, Louise Mensch, Bunny La Roche and Courtney Barrasford reveal how to trounce the trolls
    Gallipoli centenary: At dawn, the young remember the young who perished in one of the First World War's bloodiest battles

    At dawn, the young remember the young

    A century ago, soldiers of the Empire – many no more than boys – spilt on to Gallipoli’s beaches. On this 100th Anzac Day, there are personal, poetic tributes to their sacrifice
    Dissent is slowly building against the billions spent on presidential campaigns – even among politicians themselves

    Follow the money as never before

    Dissent is slowly building against the billions spent on presidential campaigns – even among politicians themselves, reports Rupert Cornwell
    Samuel West interview: The actor and director on austerity, unionisation, and not mentioning his famous parents

    Samuel West interview

    The actor and director on austerity, unionisation, and not mentioning his famous parents
    General Election 2015: Imagine if the leading political parties were fashion labels

    Imagine if the leading political parties were fashion labels

    Fashion editor, Alexander Fury, on what the leaders' appearances tell us about them
    Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka: Home can be the unsafest place for women

    Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka: Home can be the unsafest place for women

    The architect of the HeForShe movement and head of UN Women on the world's failure to combat domestic violence
    Public relations as 'art'? Surely not

    Confessions of a former PR man

    The 'art' of public relations is being celebrated by the V&A museum, triggering some happy memories for DJ Taylor
    Bill Granger recipes: Our chef succumbs to his sugar cravings with super-luxurious sweet treats

    Bill Granger's luxurious sweet treats

    Our chef loves to stop for 30 minutes to catch up on the day's gossip, while nibbling on something sweet
    London Marathon 2015: Paula Radcliffe and the mother of all goodbyes

    The mother of all goodbyes

    Paula Radcliffe's farewell to the London Marathon will be a family affair
    Everton vs Manchester United: Steven Naismith demands 'better' if Toffees are to upset the odds against United

    Steven Naismith: 'We know we must do better'

    The Everton forward explains the reasons behind club's decline this season
    Arsenal vs Chelsea: Praise to Arsene Wenger for having the courage of his convictions

    Michael Calvin's Last Word

    Praise to Wenger for having the courage of his convictions