Designers set the trends of autumn/winter 2013 on the New York runways

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

From monochrome to Mother Russia, US designers ran the gamut of trends for autumn 2013

Rodarte

Rodarte's palette this season was black, white, grey and nude, which allowed the styled layering to do the 1980s talking. A splash of tie-dye on silk-satin floor-length dresses signified that we were back in the Mulleavy sisters' dream-like interpretation of their Santa Cruz childhood.

Diane von Furstenberg

“I've become one of those women who shops all day, gets pedicures,” whispered a disco diva in the show soundtrack. This was high glamour and high 1970s in tan and burgundy suede wrap dresses, patchwork, a velvet tunic over velvet flares and a floor-length empire-line maxidress.

Alexander Wang

Wang's show was at the Cunard Building, built in 1919, when NYC was the largest metropolis in the world, but the collection harked back to the 1980s of the USSR. Concrete-block grey permeated the collection, as well as Astrakhan and angles on jackets reminiscent of Malewicz illustrations.

Oscar de la Renta

Reports suggest that John Galliano's residency at de la Renta was Anna Wintour's idea and there are rumours that he might take over the house. All this is vague and as yet unknowable: what is certain is that the collection benefited from the meeting of design minds.

Thom Browne

If Mobama wearing Thom Browne on the campaign trail and at the inauguration had any effect on his designs this season, it was to strengthen the resolve of his vision. Gothic fantasy mixed with menswear fabrics and flat kimono sleeves combined in a unique sartorial message.

Donna Karan

Karan related her autumn 2013 collection to the “Seven Easy Pieces” concept that was part of her original design ethos. Tight jersey formed the foundation, with separates layered on top to provide a hard-working woman of the 1980s with a hard-working wardrobe.

DKNY

“Get chic… and have some fun,” exhorted the DKNY show notes – perhaps in the yellow and red leopard-print jumpers, coats, jeans and boots, or the large “D” pendant necklace that wouldn't look out of place in a pop-rap MTV extravaganza. The collection's strengths were in its simplicity.

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had softness in mind, seen in the curvature of coat shoulders, the low-heeled shoes, the ostrich-feather skirts and the pale grey, mint and peach colours that gently wriggled into the monochrome palette.

Michael Kors

Michael Kors' autumn 2013 spoke to a number of different women. The Matrix came to mind in streamlined black bodysuits with leather sleeves or peplum; Sigourney Weaver in Working Girl in a royal blue double-breasted and belted suit, worn with a masculine coat draped across the shoulders.

Victoria Beckham

Beckham, the woman, this season was described by VB in the show notes as having particular attributes: she drinks espresso and devours books. There was whimsy and an edge, underscored by a soundtrack from Popeye. Knee-high boots paired with school uniform-like pinafore dresses conveyed the mood.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Puffs of hair and beautiful boys were easy on the eyes at the Marc by Marc Jacobs show on Monday. There was a strong sense of non-directional nostalgia – for the music of yore, for the 1940s, the 1950s, the 1970s, for being young and pretending to be older. Satin suits were wide-legged.

Marc Jacobs

Joan Jetts hair-spiration met the shimmer of the 1070s at Jacobs' main show, which introduced a new way to hold your bag: with one arm across your torso. Forest green made a fleeting but strong appearance as it has done elsewhere, and fun fur came in the shape of teddies.

Calvin Klein

Wide belts and cinched waists were far from demure, moving the Klein look away from the minimal romance of its past few seasons. More bottle-green was evident in a show that combined bullet-proof panelling and patent leather to convey a feeling of strength in sophistication.

Ralph Lauren

Lauren took us to Russia by boat this season: Cossack pants tucked into boots, styled with fisherman's jumpers and caps, and naval badges. He puts a theme for each season, but take each look apart and you have commercial pieces that can be worn apart from the context into which they were crafted.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
SPONSORED FEATURES
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Account Manager - South West

    £25000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an opportunity to join ...

    Recruitment Genius: Administrator - IT - Fixed Term, Part Time

    £17340 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Come and join one of the UK's leading ca...

    Recruitment Genius: Property Sales Consultant - Chinese Speaking - OTE £70,000

    £18000 - £70000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Opportunity for a Fluent Chines...

    Recruitment Genius: AV Installation Engineer

    £27000 - £33000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Due to business growth, this is...

    Day In a Page

    Isis profits from destruction of antiquities by selling relics to dealers - and then blowing up the buildings they come from to conceal the evidence of looting

    How Isis profits from destruction of antiquities

    Robert Fisk on the terrorist group's manipulation of the market to increase the price of artefacts
    Labour leadership: Andy Burnham urges Jeremy Corbyn voters to think again in last-minute plea

    'If we lose touch we’ll end up with two decades of the Tories'

    In an exclusive interview, Andy Burnham urges Jeremy Corbyn voters to think again in last-minute plea
    Tunisia fears its Arab Spring could be reversed as the new regime becomes as intolerant of dissent as its predecessor

    The Arab Spring reversed

    Tunisian protesters fear that a new law will whitewash corrupt businessmen and officials, but they are finding that the new regime is becoming as intolerant of dissent as its predecessor
    King Arthur: Legendary figure was real and lived most of his life in Strathclyde, academic claims

    Academic claims King Arthur was real - and reveals where he lived

    Dr Andrew Breeze says the legendary figure did exist – but was a general, not a king
    Who is Oliver Bonas and how has he captured middle-class hearts?

    Who is Oliver Bonas?

    It's the first high-street store to pay its staff the living wage, and it saw out the recession in style
    Earth has 'lost more than half its trees' since humans first started cutting them down

    Axe-wielding Man fells half the world’s trees – leaving us just 422 each

    However, the number of trees may be eight times higher than previously thought
    60 years of Scalextric: Model cars are now stuffed with as much tech as real ones

    60 years of Scalextric

    Model cars are now stuffed with as much tech as real ones
    Theme parks continue to draw in thrill-seekers despite the risks - so why are we so addicted?

    Why are we addicted to theme parks?

    Now that Banksy has unveiled his own dystopian version, Christopher Beanland considers the ups and downs of our endless quest for amusement
    Tourism in Iran: The country will soon be opening up again after years of isolation

    Iran is opening up again to tourists

    After years of isolation, Iran is reopening its embassies abroad. Soon, there'll be the chance for the adventurous to holiday there
    10 best PS4 games

    10 best PS4 games

    Can’t wait for the new round of blockbusters due out this autumn? We played through last year’s offering
    Transfer window: Ten things we learnt

    Ten things we learnt from the transfer window

    Record-breaking spending shows FFP restraint no longer applies
    Migrant crisis: UN official Philippe Douste-Blazy reveals the harrowing sights he encountered among refugees arriving on Lampedusa

    ‘Can we really just turn away?’

    Dead bodies, men drowning, women miscarrying – a senior UN figure on the horrors he has witnessed among migrants arriving on Lampedusa, and urges politicians not to underestimate our caring nature
    Nine of Syria and Iraq's 10 world heritage sites are in danger as Isis ravages centuries of history

    Nine of Syria and Iraq's 10 world heritage sites are in danger...

    ... and not just because of Isis vandalism
    Girl on a Plane: An exclusive extract of the novelisation inspired by the 1970 Palestinian fighters hijack

    Girl on a Plane

    An exclusive extract of the novelisation inspired by the 1970 Palestinian fighters hijack
    Why Frederick Forsyth's spying days could spell disaster for today's journalists

    Why Frederick Forsyth's spying days could spell disaster for today's journalists

    The author of 'The Day of the Jackal' has revealed he spied for MI6 while a foreign correspondent