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The death of the logo handbag: How minimalism quietly nudged out shouty branding

What should we buying instead? 

Sarah Young
Monday 31 October 2016 14:25 GMT
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Gucci is one company that has worked hard to understand digital and use it to reach new audiences
Gucci is one company that has worked hard to understand digital and use it to reach new audiences (Rex)

The logo 'It' bag is officially dead.

In today’s fashion circles the once-trendy accessory just doesn’t carry the same weight that it used to. The need for loud, shouty branding is flailing in the midst of a sea change.

But don’t just take our word for it, according to a recent report by market research group NPD a third of handbags bought by US customers in the last year have been quiet, discreet, no-logo carryalls.

Unsurprisingly, those over the age of 50 are the most unobtrusive consumers with 40 per cent opting for no-logo bags - but this isn’t a trend reserved solely for the more mature dresser.

Even Generation Z, a cast of consumers in their late teens and early 20s fixated on big branding are on board too, with their no-logo buying increasing by eight per cent.

“Consumers are becoming less focused on image and more focused on individuality – especially the younger generations,” said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at The NPD Group.

“While the cachet of designer logos is still relevant for many, the days of consumers looking to be a part of a designer or brand movement are waning in favour of their desire to find the style and function unique to their personality and lifestyle.”

In the 90s, logos were just as important, if not more important, than the clothes themselves and you had to decide which brands you were going to commit to. Maximalism reached fever pitch.

So what should we buying instead? Thanks in no small part to the success of indie brand Mansur Gavriel, whose pared-down bucket bag fired up the masses, brands like Michael Kors and Coach have cut back on their logo heavy handbags.

Instead, subtlety and a discreet, modern take on brand classics dominates. For Michael Kors, the Gracie is the most recent celebrity favourite, while the Mercer offers a chic take on the satchel.

Also going big with bags that promise to stand the test of time is Coach, who have just released Coach Icons; an installment of three key styles that have been reimagined from the archives to celebrate their 75th anniversary.

The Duffle, Saddle Bag and Dinky offer functionality and super-subtle details that give them an enduring appeal. What’s more, they tend to come at a relatively attainable price, not bargain bucket of course but they’re in general far cheaper than their heavily embroidered counterparts.

It’s refreshing to see the fashion cycle turn towards a trend that’s less about status and more about personal style. The reign of the logo handbag looks to be ending but these new iterations, while less commercial, look set to be just as popular among the fashion forward.

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