Jil thrills with new collection

Sander returns to the helm of her eponymous label with slick tailoring and elegant separates

Milan

Jil Sander is back. That was the fashionable consensus after her spring 2013 show in Milan yesterday, marking the German designer's return to her own label after a hiatus of nearly eight years.

The label has been much talked about in recent seasons, mainly for its run of critically acclaimed collections by previous incumbent, Raf Simons – who is now heading up Christian Dior, after John Galliano's fall from grace there – but also for the dramatic machinations which unfolded in February during the last round of shows in the city.

Simons was out, came the announcement, and Sander was in – despite having quit twice in the past due to creative differences with the label's backers.

"I feel great to be here," Sander said backstage, as colleagues and critics queued up to congratulate her after the show. "I have a lot of friends here from my long career, and we have so much passion. Excellence – this is our future."

Nothing if not a perfectionist, Sander showed a collection that was precise and pretty, perhaps more so than many had predicted. Colours were sombre at first – deep rust and rich midnight blue, teamed with plenty of black and white pieces – but there were flashes of orange too, a bright, not-quite-neon coral-ish hue that defied easy description.

Rigid double-faced cotton shift dresses, long-line waistcoats and coats were clean and minimal. The cut of each was brilliantly clinical, but swags, yokes and panelling made pieces fluid and sculpted. The only embellishment throughout was a spray of rubberised and holographic disks on white circle skirts, that caught the light in myriad ways.

Sander signatures included oversized patch pockets and flat-cut sleeves, an innovative approach to fabrics, and the label's hero piece: the white shirt, reworked in various slim-fitting styles.

For a designer who gained cult status in the Nineties by dressing working women in coolly androgynous, often deliberately severe tailoring, Sander yesterday incorporated many of the more feminine tics for which Simons was praised during his time at the house. There were none of his couture flourishes, but there seemed to be an appreciation for how the label had evolved under his direction, with elegant but sporty cigarette pants, slit-back vests and moulded shell tops.

"I think we should look for excellence," Sander said. "For our culture, it's important to look for the sensitivity of the artisan's world. I hope you enjoyed it."

The whistles, whoops and cheers the crowd responded with were surely answer enough.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
SPONSORED FEATURES
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Executive or Senior Sales Executive - B2B Exhibitions

    £18000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Sales Executive or Senior Sal...

    Recruitment Genius: Head of Support Services

    £40000 - £55000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...

    Recruitment Genius: Warehouse Team Leader

    £22000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This industry leading company produces h...

    Recruitment Genius: Business Development Manager / Sales - OTE £40,000

    £20000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This IT provider for the educat...

    Day In a Page

    The Silk Roads that trace civilisation: Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places

    The Silk Roads that trace civilisation

    Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places
    House of Lords: Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled

    The honours that shame Britain

    Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled
    When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race

    'When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race'

    Why are black men living the stereotypes and why are we letting them get away with it?
    International Tap Festival: Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic

    International Tap Festival comes to the UK

    Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic
    War with Isis: Is Turkey's buffer zone in Syria a matter of self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

    Turkey's buffer zone in Syria: self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

    Ankara accused of exacerbating racial division by allowing Turkmen minority to cross the border
    Doris Lessing: Acclaimed novelist was kept under MI5 observation for 18 years, newly released papers show

    'A subversive brothel keeper and Communist'

    Acclaimed novelist Doris Lessing was kept under MI5 observation for 18 years, newly released papers show
    Big Blue Live: BBC's Springwatch offshoot swaps back gardens for California's Monterey Bay

    BBC heads to the Californian coast

    The Big Blue Live crew is preparing for the first of three episodes on Sunday night, filming from boats, planes and an aquarium studio
    Austin Bidwell: The Victorian fraudster who shook the Bank of England with the most daring forgery the world had known

    Victorian fraudster who shook the Bank of England

    Conman Austin Bidwell. was a heartless cad who carried out the most daring forgery the world had known
    Car hacking scandal: Security designed to stop thieves hot-wiring almost every modern motor has been cracked

    Car hacking scandal

    Security designed to stop thieves hot-wiring almost every modern motor has been cracked
    10 best placemats

    Take your seat: 10 best placemats

    Protect your table and dine in style with a bold new accessory
    Ashes 2015: Alastair Cook not the only one to be caught in The Oval mindwarp

    Cook not the only one to be caught in The Oval mindwarp

    Aussie skipper Michael Clarke was lured into believing that what we witnessed at Edgbaston and Trent Bridge would continue in London, says Kevin Garside
    Can Rafael Benitez get the best out of Gareth Bale at Real Madrid?

    Can Benitez get the best out of Bale?

    Back at the club he watched as a boy, the pressure is on Benitez to find a winning blend from Real's multiple talents. As La Liga begins, Pete Jenson asks if it will be enough to stop Barcelona
    Athletics World Championships 2015: Beijing witnesses new stage in the Jessica Ennis-Hill and Katarina Johnson-Thompson heptathlon rivalry

    Beijing witnesses new stage in the Jess and Kat rivalry

    The last time the two British heptathletes competed, Ennis-Hill was on the way to Olympic gold and Johnson-Thompson was just a promising teenager. But a lot has happened in the following three years
    Jeremy Corbyn: Joining a shrewd operator desperate for power as he visits the North East

    Jeremy Corbyn interview: A shrewd operator desperate for power

    His radical anti-austerity agenda has caught the imagination of the left and politically disaffected and set a staid Labour leadership election alight
    Isis executes Palmyra antiquities chief: Defender of ancient city's past was killed for protecting its future

    Isis executes Palmyra antiquities chief

    Robert Fisk on the defender of the ancient city's past who was killed for protecting its future