Men's fashion takes centre stage at London Fashion Week

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

From Savile Row suits to S&M leathers, the autumn/winter menswear shows at London Fashion Week today ranged right across the style spectrum. In the morning Prince and Princess Michael of Kent were among the guests at an extremely genteel, cucumber sandwich-fuelled presentation at Hardy Amies, but by the afternoon the gimp masks were out in force.

Tailors E. Tautz, and Gieves & Hawkes - who have dressed Gordon Brown - both showed their debut salon-style shows in the Hardy Amies building on Savile Row, and the intimate presentation afforded guests a close up view of the fine cut and quality. E Tautz’s collection combined British sportswear and military themes, and referenced the heavy knits and double-breasted coats in David Lean’s Naval film In Which We Serve. The collection was traditional without being stuffy, and featured single and double breasted suits in Glen checks, a kilt made from Harris tweed worn with hand knitted socks, a lambswool cardigan inspired by one of the Duke of Windsor’s shooting cardigans in the 1930s and an military greatcoat.

Alongside slim single-breasted jackets worn with short, tapered trousers, the Gieves& Hawkes collection featured several double-breasted jackets, underlining the return of the style. The label even featured a ‘ double, double-breasted’ jacket which layered two jackets together to create one. The colour palette was dark, and a deep plum colour offered an appealing alternative to the ubiquitous black, grey or navy suit. For the suave man about town seeking evening attire, Hardy Amies offered dinner suits in midnight blue and black, and a smoking jacket in plum velvet with black frogging.

The MAN show, featuring three up and coming designers supported by Topman and Fashion East, was a world away from the refined atmosphere on Savile Row. Perhaps appropriately, given the somewhat dungeon-like air of the damp vaults below Somerset House in which it was held, the Jaiden rVa James show had a fiercely kinky, S&M vibe. Male models appeared in increasingly sinister gimp masks, including one with a leather wimple attached, teamed with buckled leather trousers, chaps, dresses, skirts and platform thigh boots. New Power Studio focused on sportswear for an Asbo chic look that teamed tracksuit trousers with oversized donkey jackets, while in Katie Eary’s show urban warriors wore plastic look trousers teamed with huge fur trimmed-parkas in hallucinatory patterns and colours such as orange and acid green. These were accessorised with velvet covered toy guns and cups.

For the fashion conscious man looking for something in between Savile Row tradition and the experimentation of MAN, Topman Design came up trumps. The show was inspired by the industrial counter culture of East Berlin and self styled misfit boys with a punk aesthetic. The collection centred on parkas- fast emerging as a trend for next season- and these came in oil-waxed cotton and heavy wool felt. Grungy mohair jumpers appeared in red and green worn with skinny ripped jeans, wool trousers and even long johns.

Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Arts and Entertainment
'New Tricks' star Dennis Waterman is departing from the show after he completes filming on two more episodes
tvOnly remaining original cast-member to leave long-running series
Arts and Entertainment
Game Of Thrones
Uh-oh, winter is coming. Ouch, my eyes! Ygritte’s a goner. Lysa’s a goner. Tywin’s a goner. Look, a dragon
tvSpoiler warning:The British actor says viewers have 'not seen the last' of his character
The Etihad Stadium, home of Manchester City
premier league

The Independent's live blog of today's Premier League action

Rumer was diagnosed with bipolarity, attention deficit hyperactivity disorder and post-traumatic stress disorder: 'I was convinced it was a misdiagnosis'
peopleHer debut album caused her post-traumatic stress - how will she cope as she releases her third record?
Life and Style
Couples have been having sex less in 2014, according to a new survey
Holly's review of Peterborough's Pizza Express quickly went viral on social media
Radamel Falcao was forced to withdraw from the World Cup after undergoing surgery
premier leagueExclusive: Reds have agreement with Monaco
Arts and Entertainment
musicBiographer Hunter Davies has collected nearly a hundred original manuscripts
A long jumper competes in the 80-to-84-year-old age division at the 2007 World Masters Championships
Arts and Entertainment
tvReview: 'Time Heist' sees a darker side to Peter Capaldi's Doctor
Life and Style
Walking tall: unlike some, Donatella Versace showed a strong and vibrant collection
fashionAlexander Fury on the staid Italian clothing industry
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    KS1 Primary Teacher

    £100 - £150 per day: Randstad Education Leeds: Qualified KS1 Supply Teacher re...

    KS2 Teaching Supply Wakefield

    £140 - £160 per day: Randstad Education Leeds: Qualified KS2 Supply Teacher r...

    Year 1/2 Teacher

    £130 - £160 per day: Randstad Education Leeds: Qualified KS1 Teacher required,...

    Primary Teachers Needed for Supply in Wakefield

    £140 - £160 per annum: Randstad Education Leeds: Qualified KS1&2 Supply Te...

    Day In a Page

    Scottish referendum: The Yes vote was the love that dared speak its name, but it was not to be

    Despite the result, this is the end of the status quo

    Boyd Tonkin on the fall-out from the Scottish referendum
    Manolo Blahnik: The high priest of heels talks flats, Englishness, and why he loves Mary Beard

    Manolo Blahnik: Flats, Englishness, and Mary Beard

    The shoe designer who has been dubbed 'the patron saint of the stiletto'
    The Beatles biographer reveals exclusive original manuscripts of some of the best pop songs ever written

    Scrambled eggs and LSD

    Behind The Beatles' lyrics - thanks to Hunter Davis's original manuscript copies
    'Normcore' fashion: Blending in is the new standing out in latest catwalk non-trend

    'Normcore': Blending in is the new standing out

    Just when fashion was in grave danger of running out of trends, it only went and invented the non-trend. Rebecca Gonsalves investigates
    Dance’s new leading ladies fight back: How female vocalists are now writing their own hits

    New leading ladies of dance fight back

    How female vocalists are now writing their own hits
    Mystery of the Ground Zero wedding photo

    A shot in the dark

    Mystery of the wedding photo from Ground Zero
    His life, the universe and everything

    His life, the universe and everything

    New biography sheds light on comic genius of Douglas Adams
    Save us from small screen superheroes

    Save us from small screen superheroes

    Shows like Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D are little more than marketing tools
    Reach for the skies

    Reach for the skies

    From pools to football pitches, rooftop living is looking up
    These are the 12 best hotel spas in the UK

    12 best hotel spas in the UK

    Some hotels go all out on facilities; others stand out for the sheer quality of treatments
    These Iranian-controlled Shia militias used to specialise in killing American soldiers. Now they are fighting Isis, backed up by US airstrikes

    Widespread fear of Isis is producing strange bedfellows

    Iranian-controlled Shia militias that used to kill American soldiers are now fighting Isis, helped by US airstrikes
    Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

    Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

    Shoppers don't come to Topshop for the unique
    How to make a Lego masterpiece

    How to make a Lego masterpiece

    Toy breaks out of the nursery and heads for the gallery
    Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

    Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

    Urbanites are cursed with an acronym pointing to Employed but No Disposable Income or Savings
    Paisley’s decision to make peace with IRA enemies might remind the Arabs of Sadat

    Ian Paisley’s decision to make peace with his IRA enemies

    His Save Ulster from Sodomy campaign would surely have been supported by many a Sunni imam