Tradition is the key as the Empire strikes back

Tweed, tartan and classic reds rule at Fashion Week

Red was the colour of London Fashion Week, along with traditional materials such as tweed and tartan. It all invoked a mood of the classic county clan and set, well, a rather regal tone. There has been a great appetite for such hyperbolic Anglophilia, with the British Empire as a reference at Jaeger London and the great outdoors as an inspiration at Daks.

Founded in 1934 as a menswear label, Daks used its newly opened in-house museum to resuscitate its signature archive checks. Outerwear detailing, such as large buttons and lining fabrics, informed many of the pieces; full skirts appeared to be made from the quilted lining of a shooting jacket. Models recalled Carey Mulligan in An Education, although bluestocking styling contrasted with loose gauge scarves and ponchos with plenty of bounce.

Jaeger London meanwhile showed tomato-bright blazers cut in collarless, minimal shapes and fiercely creased crimson cigarette pants. These were matched with camel blouses and jackets, sleeveless navy waistcoats and crombies that featured oversized cartoonish lapel detailing.

And national treasure Betty Jackson showed bright and fleecy wool coats belted atop more muted terracotta shades and knitwear of varied weights, which gave structure to a looser classic silhouette. There were ox-blood leather jackets with bow-back details, and hooded scarlet blousons offset by much lighter tiered chiffon dresses in swirling floral prints.

Tradition prevailed again at Daniella Helayel's Issa, which has come to the fore since Kate Middleton wore an Issa dress on the day she and Prince William announced their engagement. Inspiration came from Audrey Hepburn and Wallis Simpson – a combination that conjures Ms Middleton's own blend of demure and daring.

But the next generation were using colour and traditional fabrics in quite a different way. Clothes were riotously bright at collections by young designers Louise Gray and Henry Holland. Gray's tweeds were laced with metallic flashes and large gold polka-dots on girlish wool coats. Tartan and plaid were spliced together on boxy jackets and shorts, further decorated with tassels and fringing.

Those tweedy clichés were spun again at House of Holland, reworked on herringbone wool bustier dresses embellished withpearls and in a near-trompe l'oeil denim shade. There were fuchsia herringbone skirt suits, too, with vinyl detailing on lapels and pockets, and psychedelic orange, pink and purple-checked coats over tights printed with bingo balls. It was the perfect whimsical-with-a-hint-of-retro collection for Holland's cool kid and socialite clubgoer clientele.

London Fashion Week continues tomorrow with shows from Top Shop Unique and Matthew Williamson

PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
Arts and Entertainment
tv
News
Prince Harry is clearing enjoying the Commonwealth Games judging by this photo
people(a real one this time)
News
Gardai wait for the naked man, who had gone for a skinny dip in Belfast Lough
newsTwo skinny dippers threatened with inclusion on sex offenders’ register as naturists criminalised
News
Your picture is everything in the shallow world of online dating
i100
Life and Style
Attractive women on the Internet: not a myth
techOkCupid boasts about Facebook-style experiments on users
Sport
Van Gaal said that his challenge in taking over Bobby Robson's Barcelona team in 1993 has been easier than the task of resurrecting the current United side
football
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    HR Business Partner - Banking Finance - Brentwood - £45K

    £45000 per annum + Benefits: Ashdown Group: ** HR Business Partner - Senior H...

    PA / Team Secretary - Wimbledon

    £28000 - £32000 per annum + Benefits: Ashdown Group: PA / Team Secretary - Mat...

    Mechanical Lead

    £65000 - £75000 per annum + competitive: Progressive Recruitment: Mechanical L...

    Nursery Nurse

    £8 per day: Randstad Education Manchester: Nursery Nurse The Nursery Nurse wi...

    Day In a Page

    The children were playing in the street with toy guns. The air strikes were tragically real

    The air strikes were tragically real

    The children were playing in the street with toy guns
    Boozy, ignorant, intolerant, but very polite – The British, as others see us

    Britain as others see us

    Boozy, ignorant, intolerant, but very polite
    Countries that don’t survey their tigers risk losing them altogether

    Countries that don’t survey their tigers risk losing them

    Jonathon Porritt sounds the alarm
    How did our legends really begin?

    How did our legends really begin?

    Applying the theory of evolution to the world's many mythologies
    Watch out: Lambrusco is back on the menu

    Lambrusco is back on the menu

    Naff Seventies corner-shop staple is this year's Aperol Spritz
    A new Russian revolution: Cracks start to appear in Putin’s Kremlin power bloc

    A new Russian revolution

    Cracks start to appear in Putin’s Kremlin power bloc
    Eugene de Kock: Apartheid’s sadistic killer that his country cannot forgive

    Apartheid’s sadistic killer that his country cannot forgive

    The debate rages in South Africa over whether Eugene de Kock should ever be released from jail
    Standing my ground: If sitting is bad for your health, what happens when you stay on your feet for a whole month?

    Standing my ground

    If sitting is bad for your health, what happens when you stay on your feet for a whole month?
    Commonwealth Games 2014: Dai Greene prays for chance to rebuild after injury agony

    Greene prays for chance to rebuild after injury agony

    Welsh hurdler was World, European and Commonwealth champion, but then the injuries crept in
    Israel-Gaza conflict: Secret report helps Israelis to hide facts

    Patrick Cockburn: Secret report helps Israel to hide facts

    The slickness of Israel's spokesmen is rooted in directions set down by pollster Frank Luntz
    The man who dared to go on holiday

    The man who dared to go on holiday

    New York's mayor has taken a vacation - in a nation that has still to enforce paid leave, it caused quite a stir, reports Rupert Cornwell
    Best comedians: How the professionals go about their funny business, from Sarah Millican to Marcus Brigstocke

    Best comedians: How the professionals go about their funny business

    For all those wanting to know how stand-ups keep standing, here are some of the best moments
    The Guest List 2014: Forget the Man Booker longlist, Literary Editor Katy Guest offers her alternative picks

    The Guest List 2014

    Forget the Man Booker longlist, Literary Editor Katy Guest offers her alternative picks
    Jokes on Hollywood: 'With comedy film audiences shrinking, it’s time to move on'

    Jokes on Hollywood

    With comedy film audiences shrinking, it’s time to move on