Glen Ellen Proprietor's Reserve 1991 Chardonnay ( pounds 3.99, Oddbins). Good value, lemony crisp and fruity. Sterling Vineyards 1990 Napa Valley Chardonnay ( pounds 4.99, Oddbins). Subtle whiff of spicy oak and buttery fruitiness. Monterey LR Reserve 1990 Chardonnay ( pounds 4.99, Oddbins). Toasty, oak nose and rich butterscotch flavours. Inglenook 1990 Napa Valley Chardonnay ( pounds 5.99, Tesco). Fresh fruit with crisp finish. Abbott Cellars 1990 Chardonnay ( pounds 6.30 case price, Morris & Verdin, London SW1: 071- 630 8888). Intensely flavoured fruit and deft vanilla oak. Chalk Hill 1990 Sonoma Chardonnay ( pounds 9.99, selected Tesco stores; pounds 9.98, Bibendum, London NW1: 071-722 5577). Richly flavoured tropical fruit. The Monterey Vineyard 1989 Classic Cabernet Sauvignon ( pounds 4.49, Oddbins). Mint aromas and fruit flavours. Fetzer 1990 Zinfandel ( pounds 4.99, Safeway, Oddbins). Smoky oak aromas and juicy fruit, with a touch of vanilla. Inglenook 1988 Zinfandel ( pounds 5.29, Victoria Wine). Caramel oak nose, attractively fruity. Canterbury 1991 Zinfandel ( pounds 5.99, Majestic). Fine and spicy with crushed raspberry and blackberry fruit. Pedroncelli 1988 Cabernet Sauvignon ( pounds 6.85, Lay & Wheeler, Colchester: 0206 764446). Typical capsicum and blackcurrant character with elegant tannins.

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