Veuve Clicquot who? The British winemakers kicking up a fizz

When a Dorset vineyard was crowned the world’s top sparkling wine producer, there was a palpable sense of disbelief but fizz is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to what Britain’s verdant vineyards can offer. Wondering where to start? Sam Wylie-Harris is here to help

A rare dessert wine produced from the juice of naturally frozen grapes that have been picked in the middle of a cold Canadian winter (Getty/iStock)

Sometimes what you’re looking for is right under your nose. Take English wines. In a short space of time, Britain’s verdant vineyards have become a wine lovers’ paradise – all on our doorstep.

And if you’re not quite convinced Dorset is the new Douro – with its rolling hills, riverside views and premium wineries – its Langham Wine Estate was crowned Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year at the International Wine and Spirit Competition 2020, lifting the title from French champagne house Veuve Clicquot.

Winning medals across the range, including gold for its Blanc de Blancs 2015 (£36, Langham Wine), head winemaker Tommy Grimshaw says: “We’ve had it [the title] for about six months now, so another six months of holding it before we can try and retain it.”

One to watch, Grimshaw is among the youngest viticulturists in the UK. He recently turned 25 and encourages everyone to consider English fizz when they want to celebrate.

He says: “We’ve these incredibly good quality wines on people’s doorsteps and now they aren’t able to travel abroad as much, I think they should be travelling to their local vineyard and supporting us.”

Which is what English Wine Week (19-27 June) is all about as wineries throw open their cellar doors for tours, offer picnics in the vineyards and have exciting new releases to celebrate their success.

Langham Pinot Meunier 2018 (PA)

Wondering where to start? What would be more appropriate than Grimshaw’s current favourite, Langham Pinot Meunier 2018 (£44), releasing now. He says: “It’s just incredible. Very well rounded, great structure, nice fruit, some floral notes in there and really nice and rich for such a young wine. I think it offers everything.”

Mark Driver, co-founder of Rathfinny Wine Estate in East Sussex, says they’ve received an incredible response since lockdown restrictions eased: “We took something like 7,000 bookings in the first two weeks when we opened the online booking system. People really want to come out, they want to celebrate and they want to celebrate with English wines, which are increasingly winning awards and offer terrific value.”

Rathfinny Blanc de Blancs 2017 (PA)

The reopening also coincides with two new releases. He says: “The Rathfinny Blanc de Blancs 2017 (£39.50, Rathfinny) has had an amazing reception, with people saying it’s our best yet.

Rathfinny Classic Cuvée 2017 (PA)

“I think that just sums up 2017, it was such a fantastic year to make wine in England, so we’re really pleased. And our Classic Cuvée 2017 (£29.50) has had an incredible reception. It’s showing all these lovely tropical fruit characteristics, papaya, pineapple, it’s really quite delightful.”

Similar to Rathfinny, there are a host of vineyards with fantastic restaurants, winemaker dinners, great tours and accommodation. As Driver puts it: “Come and visit the ‘Napa Valley of the South Downs’, because we’ve got amazing vineyards across Sussex, Kent, Hampshire and as far west as Cornwall.”

Nyetimber Classic Cuvée (PA)

Nyetimber, one of the pioneers of English sparkling wine with vineyards across West Sussex, Hampshire and Kent, has teamed up with the South Downs National Park to release 1,000 limited-edition bottles of its Nyetimber Classic Cuvée (£36.99, Nyetimber).

Brad Greatrix, winemaker at Nyetimber, says: “There’s a saying in our industry – ‘What grows together, goes together’ – and some of the flavours in our Classic Cuvée are reminiscent of the summer fruits growing wild in orchards around the South Downs. Think apples, strawberries, raspberries etcetera.”

Each limited edition bottle represents a tree to be planted as part of this year’s Trees for the Downs initiative, demonstrating a commitment to developing a sustainable and holistic approach to the land. Greatrix says: “At Nyetimber, we’re dedicated to giving back to nature in this way, nurturing both the land we cultivate and the surrounding areas of the South Downs we call home.”

Louis Pommery England (PA)

Another champion of biodiversity, Champagne Pommery was the first champagne house to produce an English sparkling wine. Clément Pierlot, Champagne Pommery chef de cave and head of winemaking for Louis Pommery England (£35.99, Majestic), says one aspect he’s particularly proud of is signing up for the Sustainable Wine GB certification at the beginning of the year.

He says: “The estate’s run with the greatest respect for the environment. We don’t use any herbicides or insecticides and we like to protect the local wildlife. We even have our own bees that create great biodiversity.”

According to Wine GB, there were 750 vineyards at the last count with more than a million vines being planted each year – mainly the champagne trio of pinot noir,chardonnay and pinot meunier, made in the traditional method, same as its French equivalent.

Naturally, it’s tempting to compare the two, but as Pierlot notes: “Champagne is rich from centuries of history; its terroirs have been defined and cultivated for a very long time. For English sparkling wine, this is still under development, however we have a profound respect for the Hampshire terroir; the wine’s intrinsic characteristics, its frame, its texture, its aromatic signature.”

And with a young wine industry committed to sustainability, a growing reputation for excellence and wine tourism offering a vibrant wine and food culture, there’s plenty out there to satisfy your thirst.

Roebuck Rosé de Noirs 2016 (PA)

Even more so for rosé lovers, with Roebuck’s success for Sussex at The International Wine Challenge 2021, and scooping the English Vintage Sparkling Rosé Trophy top spot for its Rosé de Noirs 2016 (£40, Roebuck Estates), which scored 95 out of 100 points as well as being awarded gold.

“We’re obviously delighted to win another superb trophy, this time for the debut vintage release of our Rosé de Noirs,” says James Mead, general manager, Roebuck Estates. “Our 2016 has gorgeous notes of wild strawberries, white peach and a hint of honeysuckle. With summer just around the corner, and life returning to something a little more normal, it’s the perfect fizz to enjoy with friends and family.”

Morrisons The Best English Sparkling Brut Vintage 2010 (PA)

The judges were also out in force at the Good Housekeeping Institute Taste Test, with Morrisons The Best English Sparkling Brut Vintage 2010 (£18) winning Best English Sparkling Wine Under £35.

Mark Jarman, senior wine sourcing manager at Morrisons, says: “I’ve always been a huge fan of this wine. English sparkling has really made a name for itself in recent years and this version exemplifies what’s great about the category; classic apple aromas with biscuity flavours derived from extended ageing give wonderful richness combined with exceptional elegance.”

Mixed case of six English wines from Waitrose (PA)

Waitrose, another retailer that’s serious about their still and sparkling English wines, is launching a new mixed case of six English wines (£90) to champion English Wine Week. Highlights include a chardonnay from Kent, a pinot noir from Sussex, a red blend from the Norfolk Broads and a fabulous fizz from Dorset – plugging into everything we love about English wine with a variety of styles to discover and a showcase for the winemaking potential still waiting to be uncorked. Cheers!