Anthony Rose: 'It's time to wrest the PR advantage back from Bordeaux'

 

The brilliantly-staged annual Bordeaux press and trade tasting week is now a gravy train resulting in the serious boosting of the coffers of the greatest châteaux. Despite staggering prices for their pre-release 2009 vintage, they made hay because the vintage was rated as one of the true greats.

Though different in style, 2010 was another great vintage but further exorbitant price hikes left a nasty taste in the mouth.

Since the much-anticipated Chinese gold rush failed to materialise, Bordeaux was left with egg on its face and wine in its cellar.

There are no bad vintages any more and saved-by-the-bell 2011 looks like being serviceable enough. But the pre-condition for buying pre-release should be that you get a great vintage at a price you'll never see again.

Unfortunately, this just isn't going to happen with the 2011 vintage. My reading of all the reports so far suggest that when the bottled wines do finally come on to the market in two years' time, it is unlikely to be substantially pricier, if at all, than it was on release this year.

It's time to wrest the PR advantage back from Bordeaux and taste and assess a little bit later.

Bordeaux 2008 is starting to look almost good value, and if you are looking for a super-delicious and high-class claret as a treat, the 2008 Ulysse Cazabonne, Pauillac, £19.99, buy 2 = £17.99, Majestic, is a chip off the old block of a Pauillac first-growth château. We're not allowed to tell you which one, but let's just say it starts with an 'L'. And it has the pedigree of the great château itself, a stylish red whose cassis core of dark fruit is polished by toasty oak and suave-textured tannins.

It's also the case that Bordeaux isn't the only game in town any more.

If you're not drowning in wine or haven't yet splashed the cash on Burgundy 2010, you might want to try the juicy, mulberryish 2010 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, £13.75, Lea & Sandeman (020-7244 0522) from Volnay's Nicolas Rossignol, or the complex, mineral and appetisingly bone-dry 2010 Bourgogne Blanc, Gérard Thomas et Filles, £14.99, buy 2 =£13.99, Majestic.

Or the wonderful Rhône 2010, whose offers, out now, include Maxime Graillot's peppery-spicy and violet-perfumed Crozes-Hermitage Les Lises, from £126 a case, in bond, Berry Bros & Rudd (0800 240 2440).

Suggested Topics
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Recruitment Genius: Car Sales Executive - Franchised Main Dealer

    £30000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is a great opportunity for...

    Recruitment Genius: Group Sales Manager - Field Based

    £21000 - £22000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Located on the stunning Sandban...

    Guru Careers: Email Marketing Specialist

    £26 - 35k (DOE): Guru Careers: An Email Marketing Specialist is needed to join...

    Recruitment Genius: Tour Drivers - UK & European

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This is a fantastic opportunity to join a is a...

    Day In a Page

    As in 1942, Germany must show restraint over Greece

    As in 1942, Germany must show restraint over Greece

    Mussolini tried to warn his ally of the danger of bringing the country to its knees. So should we, says Patrick Cockburn
    Britain's widening poverty gap should be causing outrage at the start of the election campaign

    The short stroll that should be our walk of shame

    Courting the global elite has failed to benefit Britain, as the vast disparity in wealth on display in the capital shows
    Homeless Veterans appeal: The rise of the working poor: when having a job cannot prevent poverty

    Homeless Veterans appeal

    The rise of the working poor: when having a job cannot prevent poverty
    Prince Charles the saviour of the nation? A new book highlights concerns about how political he will be when he eventually becomes king

    Prince Charles the saviour of the nation?

    A new book highlights concerns about how political he will be when he eventually becomes king
    How books can defeat Isis: Patrick Cockburn was able to update his agenda-setting 'The Rise of Islamic State' while under attack in Baghdad

    How books can defeat Isis

    Patrick Cockburn was able to update his agenda-setting 'The Rise of Islamic State' while under attack in Baghdad
    Judith Hackitt: The myths of elf 'n' safety

    Judith Hackitt: The myths of elf 'n' safety

    She may be in charge of minimising our risks of injury, but the chair of the Health and Safety Executive still wants children to be able to hurt themselves
    The open loathing between Barack Obama and Benjamin Netanyahu just got worse

    The open loathing between Obama and Netanyahu just got worse

    The Israeli PM's relationship with the Obama has always been chilly, but going over the President's head on Iran will do him no favours, says Rupert Cornwell
    French chefs get 'le huff' as nation slips down global cuisine rankings

    French chefs get 'le huff' as nation slips down global cuisine rankings

    Fury at British best restaurants survey sees French magazine produce a rival list
    Star choreographer Matthew Bourne gives young carers a chance to perform at Sadler's Wells

    Young carers to make dance debut

    What happened when superstar choreographer Matthew Bourne encouraged 27 teenage carers to think about themselves for once?
    Design Council's 70th anniversary: Four of the most intriguing prototypes from Ones to Watch

    Design Council's 70th anniversary

    Four of the most intriguing prototypes from Ones to Watch
    Dame Harriet Walter: The actress on learning what it is to age, plastic surgery, and her unease at being honoured by the establishment

    Dame Harriet Walter interview

    The actress on learning what it is to age, plastic surgery, and her unease at being honoured by the establishment
    Art should not be a slave to the ideas driving it

    Art should not be a slave to the ideas driving it

    Critics of Tom Stoppard's new play seem to agree that cerebral can never trump character, says DJ Taylor
    Bill Granger recipes: Our chef's winter salads will make you feel energised through February

    Bill Granger's winter salads

    Salads aren't just a bit on the side, says our chef - their crunch, colour and natural goodness are perfect for a midwinter pick-me-up
    England vs Wales: Cool head George Ford ready to put out dragon fire

    George Ford: Cool head ready to put out dragon fire

    No 10’s calmness under pressure will be key for England in Cardiff
    Michael Calvin: Time for Old Firm to put aside bigotry and forge new links

    Michael Calvin's Last Word

    Time for Old Firm to put aside bigotry and forge new links